deskthority

I used 6.6° . that should be enough for the USB part of the teensy to clear the case bottom.

I think HyperMicro Madness has reached me...

In the Phantom instructions, it says:

6. It is *very* important that all diodes are soldered in the same direction, or your keyboard's matrix would be broken. There is a black band on every diode. Orient the diode so that the black band on the diode is closer to the square soldering pad on the PCB. Most diode soldering pads have the square pads below the round pads. VERY IMPORTANT, for some switch locations, the square soldering pad is above the round pads. Pay attention!

7. Once diodes are in, double check that all black bands on diodes are on the square pad end.

Is this valid for the HyperMicro with hasu's firmware, too, or is it just the other way around? I did it as it says in the instructions, but now I wonder if I made the same mistake as matt3o ...

Halvar wrote: Is this valid for the HyperMicro with hasu's firmware?

I think so, but you should wait for matt3o's comment on that. I'm not aware of any mistakes with his approach, only with mine

But most important is that you use the same orientation on all diodes consistently...

It seems the black thing must be near to the square pads.


The square pads are connected to the controller and the rouncd pads are connected to the switch!

You mean near to the round pads ...

The square pads are connected to the columns (that are inputs on the teensy read by the software), the round pads are connected through the switch to the rows (that are outputs on the teensy that the software writes to).

So yes, it turns out my diodes are all wrong ... I'll decide later how I will proceed (I don't have time to desolder them today). I'll probably just use the transponed matrix in the software if the pins can all be used as both in- and outputs.

In the Phantom, they are soldered with the black thing to the square.
And I used the same logic.
But what do I know?
What are diodes anyway?
Something to eat?
I had mushrooms and pasta and red-wine sauce with garlic and whatnot, today.
Maybe that should help it make work!?

if you solder the diodes on the back and use hasu's firmware, diode cathode (black stripe) is on the round pad.

But, but, but ... on the Phantom ...

I soldered mine black stripe to round pad as well, and Soarer's Controller works just like that. I need to reroute pin D6 though. That column's haunted by either the LED or my dodgy ersatz pin made of a spare diode leg…

I'm working on the Alps version right now. Is it safe to assume that LEDs must be placed under the switch and therefore a hole is needed and nothing on PCB for the LEDs?


Backlighting would require a separate PCB with the LEDs mounted on?


I'm currently removing all unnecessary tracks from the Alps PCB (inherited from the Cherry PCB).


For alternative switch positions, I found out that the pads interfere at certain distances, so I've got the change my script to turn some of the alternative switch positions by 180 degrees ...

7bit wrote: working on the Alps version right now. Is it safe to assume that LEDs must be placed under the switch and therefore a hole is needed and nothing on PCB for the LEDs?


Backlighting would require a separate PCB with the LEDs mounted on?

Well I have seen SMD LEDs mounted through a hole (pads on the other side of the switch, with a hole between them for the LED lens to poke though and the LED mounted upside-down)
I am not sure if that makes sense, I am trying to find a pic!

the LED is soldered to the PCB and then bent pointing to a hole in the middle of the switch. for this purpose the LED is left with about 1cm of wire.

lame diagram

Found it!
They are called "reverse mount" LEDs.
Check out http://www.avagotech.com/pages/en/leds/ ... nt_series/
and an actual picture in a product over here:
https://code.google.com/p/nfc-smart-tag ... leWhiteBox
See first picture bottom right for the component side, and second picture top left for the side you'd mount the switch.

Damn, an actually available backlit Matias/Alps keyboard would be nice! Are you planning to do Alps versions of the bigger keyboards (HyperMini, HyperPoo), too?

mmm i´ve been following cos i like small keyboards, but now that you said alps/mathias you got me at the edge of the chair .

matt3o wrote:

Code: Select all

        +----+
        |    |
      +--------+
      | switch |
      |        |
--------|   |--------------------
--------|   |---|---------------- PCB
         (O)    /
          |    /
      LED +---/		  

Thanks for uploading your hi-res-7bit-ASCII-graphic!


Now, things are much clearer for me!


Is there any specification about the diameter of the LED-hole?

Nuum wrote: Damn, an actually available backlit Matias/Alps keyboard would be nice! Are you planning to do Alps versions of the bigger keyboards (HyperMini, HyperPoo), too?

Yes, once I mastered this for the HyperMicro, the others will be plain sailing!*


------------
*) 100% backlit will still require a separate controller to handle the backlighting!

the duck mini v2 (the picture you posted above seems a duck mini) uses a hole the same size of a cherry mx middle hole.

The pictrue is from Matias. I've hoped that I can make the holes smaller, but I still spare the 2 CherryMX-PCB-mount holes, so I get room to move the tracks to get space for the resistors that would otherwise be in the way of the LED-pads.


Gone are my hopes I could generate the PCBs from the same source ...

7bit wrote: ^^^ Prototype of the case for the Hyper7 ^^^

is it only me that wants a hyper7 ? Because its awesome. well with a bigger spacebar.

No, I want it too. But first I have to master the problem at a smaller scale!


Hyper7 - the only keyboard you take into your bed instead of your girlfriend!

7bit wrote: The pictrue is from Matias.

I'm pretty sure it's a duck mini

7bit wrote: No, I want it too. But first I have to master the problem at a smaller scale!


Hyper7 - the only keyboard you take into your bed instead of your girlfriend!

cool!

Make sure it has a white PCB they are cool!

Alps switches are more complicated than I thought!


Now I understand what people mean when they speak of complicated Alps.


My new inventions so far:
- reverse logic switch (meaning of pads are reversed)*
- sideways LED pad (sometimes there is something in the way)*
- single-pad resistor footprint (resistor to be soldered right next to the LED, saves one pad)*

----------------------
*) Patent pending

Typing on my new HyperMicro, that has columns for rows and rows for columns...

It's an adorable little keyboard if you ask me ... now I'm excitedly following the case discussions.

Thank you 7bit for the design and my DT voter price, and everyone in this thread for your help, especially matteo for the row/column assignments and the firmware including the "for dummies" tutorial and suka for your answers!
Attached is the firmware folder for the transposed SYM100 layout. The untransposed matrix for SYM100 is also in there (commented out in keymap_common.h and keymap_halvar.c, for use with matteo's config.h/matrix.c).

Would be awesome to have a MICRO key one day, to replace the FN ...


What is that about the transposed thing?

It makes me glad to see that there's already a "for dummies" guide here - I know I'll need it for sure.

I was too lazy to desolder all the diodes and resolder them the other way around, so I just flipped rows vs. columns in the firmware. Now I have 12 rows and 4 columns...

As long as it works, that sounds fine to me... So if I get this and solder all the diodes in the wrong direction, I can make it work as long as they're consistent? That's a big relief.

Perfect!

This board looks great, I love 40% boards. I'd love to pick up a prototype but I'm short on cash at the moment.

Keep up the good work!

Any plans on making kits that include a case in the future? I can put together a board, but making a case from scratch is a bit out of my scope I think.