deskthority

I've tried many things to attempt to get my SSK open including the pen trick. The pen trick _almost_ works, except the hex bolts are screwed down real tight. Are there any other methods available using household objects? I really don't want to have to go out and buy one, as the hardware stores that carry a 5.5mm hex driver are fairly far away (and ebay takes too long, I need instant gratification ). If there's not much I can do, I'll just deal with cleaning it without opening it up.

Just crack it open with a chisel and get a replacement case later.

Firebolt1914 wrote: I've tried many things to attempt to get my SSK open including the pen trick. The pen trick _almost_ works, except the hex bolts are screwed down real tight. Are there any other methods available using household objects?

Do you happen to have a triangular file? If so, you could break or grind back the point at the end until its tip fits snugly inside the hex bolts. I have such a triangular file that happened to have broken off at the right size to fit Torx heads of a similar size.

Unfortunately, such tool steel is very hard but also very brittle, so even if you succeed, expect the tip to fall apart slowly but surely as you work.

Firebolt1914 wrote: as the hardware stores that carry a 5.5mm hex driver are fairly far away

and ebay takes too long,

Just get the tool.
A "long, thin-walled" socket or nut driver 7/32" or 5.5mm.

Yeah I agree with fohat, if the screws are that tight it's not worth experimenting on an ssk.

The only tool for unscrewing hex bolts reliably is a hex driver. I've once been able to make do with a lucky choice of a flathead, which fit the bolt snugly, but I wouldn't count on that. Get a set of hex keys, they really are indispensable.

Sigmoid wrote: The only tool for unscrewing hex bolts reliably is a hex driver. I've once been able to make do with a lucky choice of a flathead, which fit the bolt snugly, but I wouldn't count on that. Get a set of hex keys, they really are indispensable.

How did you use a flathead? Care to elaborate?



Also webwit, was the WD40 a joke, i don't want to do anything stupid

I've never tried it but I doubt the case will melt away.

Firebolt, Mal-2 and Sigmoid gave solutions for Allen bolts. Not the kind you have. That's why it makes no sense.

Firebolt1914 wrote: Also webwit, was the WD40 a joke, i don't want to do anything stupid

you can try WD-40, it might loosen the screws. It won`t do anything to your case except add that nice WD-40 smell and a nice lubrication that`s hard to wash off! Turn the keyboard upsidedown and flood the screws with a little WD-40 and wait an hour and try again. It did this on my Micro Switch but that case is metal.

chzel wrote: Firebolt, Mal-2 and Sigmoid gave solutions for Allen bolts. Not the kind you have. That's why it makes no sense.

OMG lol I feel so dumb. Yes I was thinking of Allen bolts... I just assumed that everyone has a set of spanners or an adjustable wrench, so it didn't even occur to me that a regular hex head could cause difficulties...

The difficulty with the hex screws of a Model M is that they are in really deep (~2cm) holes, so you can't simply reach them with a wrench.

Firebolt1914 I don't know where you're located but I got my 7/32" / 5.5mm driver at an auto parts store. I strongly recommend getting the correct tool for the job even if it involves some lead time.

fohat wrote:

Firebolt1914 wrote: as the hardware stores that carry a 5.5mm hex driver are fairly far away

and ebay takes too long,

Just get the tool.
A "long, thin-walled" socket or nut driver 7/32" or 5.5mm.

Seconded. Use the correct tool for the job. It makes life easier and is worth it for the future SSKs you will buy.

Yeah I just ordered the tool. Probably the better choice.

I would lend mine if not for the distance...My brother has 2 more sets available...

5.5 mm or even 6 mm for opening the cover

4mm (for bolt mod - for the nut (I guess?)

I found a tool at the local hardware store. A few rivets are broken and the play has a bit of corrosion. Otherwise, I'm fairly satisfied considering the price.

In response to the WD-40 comments above: Model M keyboard cases are made of ABS plastic. If you want to check for yourself swab some pure acetone in a hidden location and you will see deterioration. WD-40 is entirely safe on ABS as it is a very thin oil. I don't see why you would need to use an anti-seize compound as the Model M's threads are also ABS plastic.

For a metal keyboard (like an F107) WD-40 is a good first step to try. I don't know if those cases are aluminum or steel but both are prone to corrosion and seizing.

ABS Model M cases? How come they seem so impervious to yellowing?

I asked around about this a while ago, and I think Hypersphere got an answer from Unicomp that they use some other plastic for their cases; and if I'm remembering right at all Clicky Keyboards (likely the best specialist on Model Ms anywhere) agreed the IBM originals weren't ABS either.

The only yellowing I've seen on a Model M is the space bar. And only on some European models, made in Greenock. Word is that Scottish made Model Ms sometimes had ABS spacebars, but nothing else; while American ones are ABS free in the caps and case.

I'll answer a nearly equivalent question which is "Why are some ABS plastics prone to yellowing?". The answer is brominated flame retardants. See http://web.archive.org/web/201207260420 ... Retardants .

The culprit is tetrabromobisphenol-A. That is a version of bisphenol-A (BPA) with four bromines attached to it. The same BPA that is no good in water and baby bottles. The bromines dissociate as free radicals and create brown compounds. At least that's my understanding.

I've never seen a yellowed Model M case either. Or any IBM keyboard for that matter!Another point for IBM.

Ah. They may not be ABS at all, you're right. The plastic is certainly prone to acetone damage though.

I read somewhere on the forums that they are PVC. FWIW...