deskthority

Long story short, I found this 1994 Model M while cleaning out a shared storage unit last night. The owner of the board said liquid was spilled on it and now it's garbage. He said I could have it. After all I've read in the mechanical keyboard forums, I'm not sure I agree with him that it's "dead". That said, I'm going to spend some time cleaning it up before testing it. It's disgusting. I plan to use dishwashing soap for the plastic metal parts. Any suggestions for the circuit board? I saw a post on Reddit suggesting that the graphite in a pencil might help to complete a short-circuit?

http://www.reddit.com/r/LifeProTips/com ... board_try/

I hope I can bring it back to life... Wish me luck!

Nice find! I thought that it might be the rubber dome version from the model number, but clickykeyboards tells me it's a 1995 buckling spring model. So a very late one, but should still be good. Probably nice and light compared to older Ms. Before you go and take it apart, pop on a PS2 -> USB adapter and see if it works at all. There's a good chance that it does.

You can take off the keycaps and case first and wash those in warm, soapy water. That'll get most of the crap off. Then the assembly inside should be cleanable with a load of cotton buds (I think Americans call them q-tips, right?). No need to go any further if it works at that point. There's no PCB, just membranes and a metal backplate. You won't see those without breaking plastic rivets off of the back, though, which is unnecessary unless something's very wrong with it.

scottc wrote: Nice find! I thought that it might be the rubber dome version from the model number, but clickykeyboards tells me it's a 1995 buckling spring model. So a very late one, but should still be good. Probably nice and light compared to older Ms. Before you go and take it apart, pop on a PS2 -> USB adapter and see if it works at all. There's a good chance that it does.

You can take off the keycaps and case first and wash those in warm, soapy water. That'll get most of the crap off. Then the assembly inside should be cleanable with a load of cotton buds (I think Americans call them q-tips, right?). No need to go any further if it works at that point. There's no PCB, just membranes and a metal backplate. You won't see those without breaking plastic rivets off of the back, though, which is unnecessary unless something's very wrong with it.

Thanks for the tip(s)! I read about the bolt mod for this board, which I might do anyway just to make it more sturdy. Those plastic rivets sound like garbage for an otherwise bulletproof board. Do you recommend alcohol for the assembly inside?

Is this the right adapter? http://www.amazon.com/SANOXY-PS2-Keyboa ... B000BSJFJS

scottc wrote: Nice find! I thought that it might be the rubber dome version from the model number, but clickykeyboards tells me it's a 1995 buckling spring model. So a very late one, but should still be good. Probably nice and light compared to older Ms. Before you go and take it apart, pop on a PS2 -> USB adapter and see if it works at all. There's a good chance that it does.

You can take off the keycaps and case first and wash those in warm, soapy water. That'll get most of the crap off. Then the assembly inside should be cleanable with a load of cotton buds (I think Americans call them q-tips, right?). No need to go any further if it works at that point. There's no PCB, just membranes and a metal backplate. You won't see those without breaking plastic rivets off of the back, though, which is unnecessary unless something's very wrong with it.

Oh, and by the way... It's actually REALLY heavy. ;

Yeah, the bolt mod is a good one but I found it very difficult. I never finished mine because I got an SSK months afterwards and just used that instead. I'd recommend against doing the bolt mod if it works well without.

I've never heard of alcohol being used on the assembly but it would probably be fine. You'd just need something to get all the gunk and dust off of the plastic.

That looks like the right adapter to me. It's the best one, called the "blue cube" by most here. You can get cheaper ones on eBay for a couple of euro, but this one is bulletproof.

Yeah, the blue cube is your best bet. Im not sure, but i remember the newer lexmark Model Ms having drainage holes...so it might not have taken any damage if you are lucky.

I believe it's post-93 with drain holes, this one should have them.