Alps Appreciation

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Chyros

25 Jul 2019, 21:25

SneakyRobb wrote:
25 Jul 2019, 20:17
I just got a Chicony KB-5161A in great condition with blue alps.

I got this Chicony board because my Leading Edge DC-2014 also with blue alps doesn't have arrow keys etc and this can make light gaming a bit lacking. I dislike switching boards. Also I wish to acquire more blue alps boards.

The games I play require a lot of buttons arrows, numpad, function keys etc. So a full sized board made sense. So I got one.

For games that require a lot of fast presses and intensity I still use a topre real force. Which is a great board.

Even though the switches feel the mostly the same from the Chicony to the Leading Edge, the sound and even feel is shockingly different. The KB-5161A sounds very good, but it is worlds apart from the DC-2014

I knew before it wouldn't sound as good and I did start with one of the best sounding alps boards, but holy hell. I have to like suspend disbelief to use the KB-5161A so I don't notice it.

I told my wife I wouldn't buy anymore boards after some beamspring parts and these blue alps boards. Now the white whale becomes the Leading Edge DC-3014 with blue alps. Must acquire.

Alps switches are honestly like to me a symphony instrument player. The keycap is the instrument, and the case/plate is the auditiorium. Take the exact same player, give them a stradivarius violin in the Vienna concert hall and oof. Amazing.

Give them a plastic trumpet in a campsite bandstand. Technically great, but your experience is not as great
You'll like that blue Alps comparison video I have planned ;) . It's true though, the differences are huge.

I've been told by people that own both that the DC-3014 doesn't sound AS good as the DC-2014, either - but this is subjective, of course.

User avatar
SneakyRobb

26 Jul 2019, 14:06

Chyros wrote:
25 Jul 2019, 21:25
You'll like that blue Alps comparison video I have planned ;) . It's true though, the differences are huge.

I've been told by people that own both that the DC-3014 doesn't sound AS good as the DC-2014, either - but this is subjective, of course.

I am looking forward to this video yes. I suspect the winner of this contest may have a noticeable value increase.

That will save some time then on the DC-3014. I honestly though really don't mind the XT style of layouts and the DC-2014 layout is really not bad at all. It is quite alright and the enter key is sort of a "medium ass enter" size which is good.


If anyone has a reference to this issue please link me to solution.

The only issue I am having with the 5161A is something I'm trying to research how to solve. Not sure if it was a custom laboratory keyboard or something. Or maybe it is just my soarer programming. (really should learn tmk,qmk)

The HID listen program reports and I have tried this that, keys have multiple commands assigned to them.

So Numpad enter for instance, reports sending a LSHIFT code and a PAD_ENTER. So it basically pressing pad enter, sends a shift, then an enter. This command is known as "return." When I try to rebind this key, nothing seems to happen.

As well other keys give what I assume are error codes. For instance the left arrow will give about 15 blocks of data. I am not at home now and will investigate this later, but it is odd. Most of the keys work though so it is still usable. I really like numpad enter though.

I have tried the keyboard in both AT and XT mode and it behaves the same. Does anyone know about this issue? HID_Listen gives way too much information from one click, and some keys giving multiple key inputs to the computer?

cli

26 Jul 2019, 16:09

Something strange with your 5161A. My Chicony 5161A in AT-mode behaves as it should with my soarer converter.
hid-listen output:
Enter
r5A +28 d28
rF0 r5A -28 u28

Num Enter
rE0 r5A +58 d58
rE0 rF0 r5A -58 u58

Left Arrow
rE0 r6B +50 d50
rE0 rF0 r6B -50 u50

User avatar
SneakyRobb

26 Jul 2019, 17:33

cli wrote:
26 Jul 2019, 16:09
Something strange with your 5161A. My Chicony 5161A in AT-mode behaves as it should with my soarer converter.
hid-listen output:
Enter
r5A +28 d28
rF0 r5A -28 u28

Num Enter
rE0 r5A +58 d58
rE0 rF0 r5A -58 u58

Left Arrow
rE0 r6B +50 d50
rE0 rF0 r6B -50 u50
Hi,

That makes sense. I mostly wanted to remap the capslock button to ctrl, but if it really comes down to it, I suppose the AT mode could be put through to ps/2-usb..

I'll try that, and if it works properly Ill assume that the converter I have doesn't have the right firmware for my keyboard and will put new firmware on the teensy.

Thanks

User avatar
SneakyRobb

27 Jul 2019, 00:38

Chyros wrote:
25 Jul 2019, 21:25
You'll like that blue Alps comparison video I have planned ;) . It's true though, the differences are huge.

I've been told by people that own both that the DC-3014 doesn't sound AS good as the DC-2014, either - but this is subjective, of course.
Is this the same for the very similar Leading Edge DC-2214?

User avatar
E3E

27 Jul 2019, 00:41

Absolutely, I feel that the 2014 has the nicest sound off the bat of all the DC-series models. The 2214 is about on par with the 3014. I didn't notice a strong difference.

User avatar
SneakyRobb

28 Jul 2019, 20:49

hi that makes sense. I was able to fix the issue. I just entered the command forceset 2 and it all works now.

I found an older post by snacksthecat with the same issue and did the same thing. Thanks snacksthecat

User avatar
ppCircle

29 Jul 2019, 14:28

Last buy, future keeb build. :)

Image

Image

I also looking for somebody who gonna help me with convert that keeb to usb (i have empty module of that keeb so pc not gonna be useless)

User avatar
79f0167

31 Jul 2019, 18:17

Alps SKFL,SKFL Compact
From Mitsubishi laptop computer

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Rezene

04 Aug 2019, 00:39

I have an m0116 with orange alps that I got off ebay for a pretty good price (60 with shipping) since it's my first skcm/skcl board I am not sure what condition they are in but they feel somewhat inconsistent in tactitltiy and a lot of the switches make a clicking noise on the up stroke I have no idea if that is normal. please tell me if it is. I was thinking about buying an ultrasonic cleaner and lubing the switches, but I don't know if it's worth lubing them. What lube should I use or should I not bother? Another thing I am wondering about is if all alps sliders are made equal? I know the early ones had lube but I would imagine it would come off in a cleaner. Could you buy a clean Dell at101w for cheap and swap the sliders with really scratched blues/oranges?

User avatar
swampangel

04 Aug 2019, 02:48

Rezene wrote:
04 Aug 2019, 00:39
I have an m0116 with orange alps that I got off ebay for a pretty good price (60 with shipping) since it's my first skcm/skcl board I am not sure what condition they are in but they feel somewhat inconsistent in tactitltiy and a lot of the switches make a clicking noise on the up stroke I have no idea if that is normal. please tell me if it is.
The clicking is pretty common. Sounds like your board was used a lot. Some people do a "paper mod" to reduce the click https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyb ... y_after_i/ -- it's a reversible mod.
Rezene wrote:
04 Aug 2019, 00:39
Another thing I am wondering about is if all alps sliders are made equal? I know the early ones had lube but I would imagine it would come off in a cleaner. Could you buy a clean Dell at101w for cheap and swap the sliders with really scratched blues/oranges?
No, the sliders have varying qualities. Some (mostly later?) SKCM blacks are pretty scratchy even in very good condition. But it's definitely possible to combine different alps switch parts like this and get a pretty good result.

The M0116 is a nice combo of size, heft, switches, and caps. Hope you get yours into a condition you're happy with :)

User avatar
flowerlandfilms

04 Aug 2019, 10:05

We all live in a yellow Submarine!
yellow.jpg
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keyboard Kultist

04 Aug 2019, 19:36

SneakyRobb wrote:
26 Jul 2019, 14:06
Chyros wrote:
25 Jul 2019, 21:25
You'll like that blue Alps comparison video I have planned ;) . It's true though, the differences are huge.

I've been told by people that own both that the DC-3014 doesn't sound AS good as the DC-2014, either - but this is subjective, of course.
Just recently I acquired a DC-2014. It apparently had been stored somewhere for a long time......*with one of those flexible key board covers in place*. Happy happy joy joy, the switchs are in near NOS condition.

All hail Orihalcon! I bought a couple more of his Zenith Black label compatible converters than I needed a while back...a few minutes with a screwdriver and it's Blue Alps Heaven :-)

Rezene

05 Aug 2019, 04:48

I've disasembed all of my orange alps with help from chyros (thanks btw :D) while I'm waiting for my ultrasonic cleaner to be delivered. I was wondering what I should put in the ultra sonic cleaner. I have read that you should not clean the sliders because it takes off the factory lube, but I cannot see any on them right now. I alps bought some dupont dry lube. Should I use that? I've read really mixed reviews with lubrication on alps. should I clean the springs or the tactile leaves?

User avatar
Chyros

05 Aug 2019, 10:35

Rezene wrote:
05 Aug 2019, 04:48
I've disasembed all of my orange alps with help from chyros (thanks btw :D) while I'm waiting for my ultrasonic cleaner to be delivered. I was wondering what I should put in the ultra sonic cleaner. I have read that you should not clean the sliders because it takes off the factory lube, but I cannot see any on them right now. I alps bought some dupont dry lube. Should I use that? I've read really mixed reviews with lubrication on alps. should I clean the springs or the tactile leaves?
I'm doing an experimental piece on Alps lubrication exactly to try and prove or disprove what does and doesn't work. I've got it scheduled for late september though, so it'll be a little while longer.

In the meantime what I CAN tell you is that if you sonicate anything, be sure to at least END with a good rinse of deionised water. Most people just sonicate in it to begin with, or use something like Decon.

Primuds

05 Aug 2019, 13:00

Posted a Video: https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyb ... _comments/on Reddit about my experience lubing cream damped switches with some bike chain dry lube.
TL;DR Switch used is linearised damped cream. First switch is unlubed, second switch is lubed. Lube removes spring ping and makes switch smoother.

Rezene

05 Aug 2019, 15:51

Chyros wrote:
05 Aug 2019, 10:35
Rezene wrote:
05 Aug 2019, 04:48
I've disasembed all of my orange alps with help from chyros (thanks btw :D) while I'm waiting for my ultrasonic cleaner to be delivered. I was wondering what I should put in the ultra sonic cleaner. I have read that you should not clean the sliders because it takes off the factory lube, but I cannot see any on them right now. I alps bought some dupont dry lube. Should I use that? I've read really mixed reviews with lubrication on alps. should I clean the springs or the tactile leaves?
I'm doing an experimental piece on Alps lubrication exactly to try and prove or disprove what does and doesn't work. I've got it scheduled for late september though, so it'll be a little while longer.

In the meantime what I CAN tell you is that if you sonicate anything, be sure to at least END with a good rinse of deionised water. Most people just sonicate in it to begin with, or use something like Decon.
Should I put anything else in the sonicator like soaps or leave it just water

User avatar
Chyros

05 Aug 2019, 16:00

Rezene wrote:
05 Aug 2019, 15:51
Chyros wrote:
05 Aug 2019, 10:35
Rezene wrote:
05 Aug 2019, 04:48
I've disasembed all of my orange alps with help from chyros (thanks btw :D) while I'm waiting for my ultrasonic cleaner to be delivered. I was wondering what I should put in the ultra sonic cleaner. I have read that you should not clean the sliders because it takes off the factory lube, but I cannot see any on them right now. I alps bought some dupont dry lube. Should I use that? I've read really mixed reviews with lubrication on alps. should I clean the springs or the tactile leaves?
I'm doing an experimental piece on Alps lubrication exactly to try and prove or disprove what does and doesn't work. I've got it scheduled for late september though, so it'll be a little while longer.

In the meantime what I CAN tell you is that if you sonicate anything, be sure to at least END with a good rinse of deionised water. Most people just sonicate in it to begin with, or use something like Decon.
Should I put anything else in the sonicator like soaps or leave it just water
You can use slightly soapy water if you want, just leave it in the inside container (don't put it in the bath). Just don't forget to rinse thoroughly with deionised afterwards.

Donnelly20

06 Aug 2019, 22:27

Im relatively new to alps boards, whites being my first ever alps switches and here is my board with some before and afters. Its an Alps made AT102.
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Its a really nice board before i got it i was using a gateway 2000 and before that a corsair k70 and i can already say i prefer the White alps to the cherry reds in the k70.

As i said im a beginner with alps boards i gave mine a once over and opened a few switches that felt scratchy.In the future i may plan to fully dismount all the switches as i would like a project and the corroding mounting plate gives me the incentive, i was planning on stripping its paint but i was not sure what to replace it with and also maybe change the switches to blue alps .

Suggestions gladly considered :D

Rezene

07 Aug 2019, 06:22

Where is the best place to buy replacement spring for orange alps? This was my first time delving into the world of modding switches and I think it came out pretty good all in all. I lubed and band-aid modded the stabilizers on my apple m0116 as well as lubing the switch sliders and upper housings with DuPont Teflon dry lubricant. I ultrasonically cleaned the sliders and upper housings. I don't think my switches were in very rough condition prior to cleaning and lubricating them because I could not notice very much of a difference at all between cleaning and lubricating; at most a slight increase in smoothness each time. These are the only alps skcm/skcl switches I've used so for all I know they are only 6/10 but they feel great to me. The stabilizers are way better however and I am really happy with them. The enter key used to bind really badly when pressing on the right side of it and now it goes down perfect everywhere. The space bar was really annoying and rattly but now it sounds much bassier and the rattle is pretty much gone. I made a typing demonstration if you want to hear what it sounds like. The only thing that I did wrong was not keep track of my springs good enough because I can't for the life of me find where the last one went. I spent a good two hours before typing this trying to find it around my room, but it is nowhere to be seen. I guess I know for next time to keep better track of the switch components. I had them all in a cup so I don't really know how it could have disappeared like that but oh well. :cry: The only option that I know of is to buy a switch from orihalcon, but spending $5.50 for a spring seems kinda stupid. If there is anywhere else where you can get replacement spring please let me know it is greatly appreciated. edit: I messaged orihalcon and he said he would throw in an extra spring with any of my purchases so I bought the lot of 9 alps; I've been trying to convince myself to buy this for months so I guess this is a good enough reason. :D

User avatar
abrahamstechnology

10 Aug 2019, 00:41

Image

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swampangel

10 Aug 2019, 03:33

Rezene wrote:
07 Aug 2019, 06:22
Where is the best place to buy replacement spring for orange alps?
Glad to hear you got what you needed from orihalcon :) otherwise far as I know, if you want springs you get sprit alps springs https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/in ... list&c=740

or you buy https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32820537943.html or another inexpensive alps switch to salvage from :|

cli

10 Aug 2019, 15:50

Donnelly20 wrote:
06 Aug 2019, 22:27
Its a really nice board before i got it i was using a gateway 2000 and before that a corsair k70 and i can already say i prefer the White alps to the cherry reds in the k70.

As i said im a beginner with alps boards i gave mine a once over and opened a few switches that felt scratchy.In the future i may plan to fully dismount all the switches as i would like a project and the corroding mounting plate gives me the incentive, i was planning on stripping its paint but i was not sure what to replace it with and also maybe change the switches to blue alps .

Suggestions gladly considered :D


Alps Bigfoot boards are quite nice. Although the Dell AT101's made by Silitek look the same they are lighter then the Alps Bigfoot (1.44 kg vs 1.66 kg, I weighted them few days ago).

You can fix scratchy switches by lubing the sliders. On Youtube you can a find a video how to lube Alps switches, it's made by fellow member Wodan. I use a plastic lunch container instead of a Ziplock bag, add 10-12 drops of dry PTFE and shake it for few minutes. I then dry the sliders for few days before assembling it back in the switches.

Succes!

keyboard Kultist

15 Aug 2019, 00:47

https://imgur.com/a/Iujheiq

Forty bucks shipped >:) I should feel ashamed of myself but I don't :-)


The key feel is very good but eight of the keys don't send signals to the computer. Time to buy more canned air :-) Or maybe an actual project if I can convince myself that my feeble soldering skills are up to it.

User avatar
//gainsborough
ALPSの日常

15 Aug 2019, 00:51

ANSI doubleshot blue alps board. Very few boards can top that (IMO)! Nice find!!!

User avatar
Redmaus
Gotta start somewhere

15 Aug 2019, 00:56

keyboard Kultist wrote:
15 Aug 2019, 00:47
https://imgur.com/a/Iujheiq

Forty bucks shipped >:) I should feel ashamed of myself but I don't :-)


The key feel is very good but eight of the keys don't send signals to the computer. Time to buy more canned air :-) Or maybe an actual project if I can convince myself that my feeble soldering skills are up to it.
Color me impressed 8-)

DaOver

16 Aug 2019, 00:34

Awesome find man.

Can someone help me with this question here:
KPrepublic stocks this ALPS plate recently. Is this plate only ISO compatible? Because I can't see how could you mount stabilizers for an ANSI Enter key when there are no mounting points for the right part of the Costar stabs.

Image

User avatar
waldorf120

16 Aug 2019, 05:27

That plate looks like it's for the XD60 v3 which supports alps. That pcb supports cherry pcb stabs, which you would have to use with this plate.

DaOver

16 Aug 2019, 13:14

Oh, I don't know why it didn't I think of that.
I have a Hasu PCB with AEK plate. But I want to put Tai Hao Alps keycaps on it. I was told that would not fit. AEK layout is incompatible with normal ALPS ANSI layout, which is weird since AEK ANSI looks like regular ANSI to me.

I was thinking I could get this plate and combine it with Hasu PCB, but that's not an option.

So I could either:
1. Get a plate cut for me for ANSI layout and Costar stabs support.
2. Or I could buy XD60/XD64 PCB with this plate and go with Cherry Stabs. This option suits me just fine because ALPS Granite DSA keycaps don't sit right on the board with Filco Costar inserts (another ALPS build I want to do). I think they were meant for Cherry stabs height.

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