deskthority

Hi guys.
I'm planning to buy a G80-1000, but the platic is burnt by the prev. owner. Can it be fixed, or something, or is it worth buying? Only 30€ converted form HUF. This picture was sent by the owner.

Don't think you can fix that, but it's just skin damage, really. Shouldn't affect the board.

Thanks, Chyros!
Is the price makes it worth?

You generally pay for the keycaps when getting a G80. What language ist the board? French?

Anyway, if those are really doubleshot keycaps and it'a not German layout, 30€ is a good price.

The layout is german, and they are dubleshot.
German is the 2nd standard here in hungary. It's basically the same if you can touchtype, set to hungarian in windows.

Okay so it has the same legends as a German keyboard with the öüä keys and stuff?

You can find much better G80s with German doubleshots for a similair price ... with a little luck

Even more. Here are the hungarian accents:
ÁÉÚÜŰÍÓÖŐ.
But the layout is set to hungarian, and i can touchtype, so no big deal.
I want this keybpard becaouse of its switches. Vintage mx blacks.

@Lynx_Carpathica: You could fill the wound with epoxy, sand, and paint the case, but this would be a lot of trouble. Depends how much you want the board.

I really want it!
I need that keyboard. I always wanted a g80-1000.

€30 for a G80-1000 is a good price, even with that burn mark.

Thanks, I hope it will still be available at the seller.

If you want to clean the burn, it won't be perfect but may make you feel better when you'll use it:
- File the burnt plastic bulges with sand paper.
- Get plastic dust from a non visible part of the case, the more thin the better, use 400 grit sanding paper. This dust will be used as a colorant in the next part.
- Mix this powder with epoxy 2 components glue.
- Apply and try to be the most close to the final result.
- Gently sand out the excess.

You're a genius!
Thanks! In October, I'm going to buy it.

I suppose, without being sure, that the G80-1000 and G81-1000 share the exact same case.
At least the wiki peremptorily says they do: wiki/Cherry_G81-1000
If so, what about an empty G81-1000 case in fair condition?

I would rather change the hole into a rectangle, cut a piece of plastic that is less important from the inside into the exact same dimensions that it could fit tightly in there and "glue" it into the hole using Poly Cement, which is a plastic solvent. Then sand it.

However, it is difficult to get the same surface texture as the original without sanding everything smooth or sandblasting it.
The outside is also likely a bit yellowed and not the same exact hue as whatever you fill it with, even if it is real plastic.

But if I would be painting it anyway, I would instead fill it with epoxy putty/clay (Milliput, Magic Sculpt or Apoxie Sculpt) because that is easier.

If your painting it , just use flexible body filler that you would use on a car bumper ( or fender for you yanks).

I would however sand off the crap thats there first

kbdfr wrote: […] If so, what about an empty G81-1000 case in fair condition?

It was not an hypothetical question, I do have such an empty case
Plastic dust, square hole, sanding, painting, body filler… I bet you'll end wanting an undamaged case anyway

You could take some plastic from the inside structure of the case, something not crucial to the integrity of the case, snip a bit, then "weld" it into the burn with a soldering iron after cleaning up the area with a dremel. Then, you sand it down smooth.

To truly get the texture back, you'd need something like a sand blaster though.

It's probably not worth it, but I've repaired some cases this way. It's not the easiest way about things.

I've also used this stuff to fill gouges. https://www.amazon.com/Plast-aid-80400- ... B004DFHSM6

It will bond with most plastics.

It can be colored with acrylic paint so you can try to do a color match. Still, retexturing is the biggest PITA when it comes to repairing a case or anything with texture.

I have seen someone repair a Model M using a mould of the texture pressed against the repair spot and with resin applied from the other side. That did get a nice texture but left seam lines and had to be painted afterwards.
I have myself while building models used rubber moulds of textures a few times to stamp textures into Milliput.

Filler and repaint, that's what I've done with my HHKB Pro1