deskthority

So i managed to get a hold of some old and interesting keyboards (i think) i'll just post the link of the entire album, i also have 3/4 of the same keyboard (the chicony), so i should be able to salvage enough parts to repair and make utilizable at least 2 in total.
Also i can't recognize 1 or 2 switches, the white square shaped one, and the white circle one, which both i believe to be rubber dome under.

I was also wondering if it is possible to make those chicony (which are AT/XT) work via PS/2 or USB, by just soldering a new cable or plugs.

Don't mind the dust, i should be able to clean them pretty good and where needed "retro bright" them with some hydrogen peroxide.

So here's the link for imgur album: http://imgur.com/a/Wr3zo

YOU SCORED!

You can get a converter for the Chicony keyboards. Any active PS/2 to USB converter should work, including the Blue Box. They're worth a fair amount due to their Blue Alps switches. And your ANSI Cherry keycaps also might have some value.

The white square and circle are slider over dome switches, which have no value. I am interested in this switch:



Is it an MY variant that I haven't seen before? I think we're missing its photo on the MY wiki page...

That's the old MY variant. I've got a few boards with it, although it's certainly harder to come by than the white variant.

Here's an example : photos-f62/cherry-g81-3000sat-t10353.html

ohaimark wrote: YOU SCORED!

You can get a converter for the Chicony keyboards. Any active PS/2 to USB converter should work, including the Blue Box. They're worth a fair amount due to their Blue Alps switches. And your ANSI Cherry keycaps also might have some value.

The white square and circle are slider over dome switches, which have no value. I am interested in this switch:



Is it an MY variant that I haven't seen before? I think we're missing its photo on the MY wiki page...

So basically i could solder a PS/2 cable to the chiconys, and then use an active ps/2 to usb converter, should be good, i should have 5 chiconys in total, 4 of them with blue alps, 1 with white alps.
I'll try that, also i could save something from those 2 rubber dome kbs, like keycaps or something else if i may need it in the future, but ye i can confirm that aside the rubber dome switches, they look pretty cheap aswell.

There's also a FAME kb with Aruz switches, which looks and feels cheap af, but those switches sound and feel kinda like blue alps, even if not as good overall.

You can use a DIN to PS/2 cable then a PS/2 to USB converter if you want to avoid soldering.

I think you just uncovered the biggest cache of Blue Alps I've ever seen. If you want to get rid of one, PM me.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Keyboard-Adapte ... 2121457173

This is on the expensive side, but here is a converter that is guaranteed to work. Or I'll eat a keycap.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SANOXY-PS2-Keyb ... 2031812246

ohaimark wrote: You can use a DIN to PS/2 cable then a PS/2 to USB converter if you want to avoid soldering.

I think you just uncovered the biggest cache of Blue Alps I've ever seen. If you want to get rid of one, PM me.

Problem is none of them have the original cable, so i'd need soldering anyway unless i can find original intact cables for those chiconys to swap. So a PASSIVE PS/2 to USB won't work right?

I should be able to get even more of them with a bit of luck, anyway yes if i happen to have one too many, i surely will tell you

Correct -- passive won't work on those keyboards afaik.

Yes, then you'll need to figure out their pinout and solder in a PS/2 or DIN cable. Hopefully the keyboard's pins are labeled on the PCB/shown in a photo or pinout somewhere.

Thanks!

ohaimark wrote: Correct -- passive won't work on those keyboards afaik.

Yes, then you'll need to figure out their pinout and solder in a PS/2 or DIN cable. Hopefully the keyboard's pins are labeled on the PCB/shown in a photo or pinout somewhere.

Thanks!

I'll keep this thread updated with pics and stuff anyway. I might need help in the process...so i guess stay tuned

This is how the chiconys look like inside


Plug and connector


Closing on the plug


And this is a shot of the keycap inside


Now i need to figure the connections to solder the cable. For the moment i cleaned best i could keycaps and the outer shell, no idea if i need to lubricate all the switches, although they kinda feel good already, there's no sign of dried lubricant or dust or anything inside the switches, they just seem to work even too fine.

Anyone on the forum knows the wiring for this keyboard or similar so that i won't be playing russian roulette with soldering?

Sorry for those big pics, couldn't find a way to thumbnail them.

If any single Chicony has a whole cable you can trace the wires from the DIN connector to the internal connector using a multimeter. You'll be able to determine the pinout by looking at a DIN pinout.

Otherwise, this may be an invaluable resource:



Note the "CDVG" below the internal male connector. Clock, Data, Voltage, Ground. I doubt they would have changed the pinout... They could have, though, so proceed with caution.

Edit: you can easily test whether the ground pin is the same by putting a multimeter probe on a termination of the black sleeved ground cable that leads to the plate and placing the other probe on each individual pin of the male connector.

Edit 2: also, if the switches aren't scratchy, don't mess with them. There is some sort of factory lube applied to them already. If they are scratchy, consider full disassembly and an ultrasonic bath to clean them. Nothing else seems to work properly. You'll lose the lube, but scratch free is much more noticeable than lube free in an Alps switch.

ohaimark wrote: If any single Chicony has a whole cable you can trace the wires from the DIN connector to the internal connector using a multimeter. You'll be able to determine the pinout by looking at a DIN pinout.

Otherwise, this may be an invaluable resource:



Note the "CDVG" below the internal male connector. Clock, Data, Voltage, Ground. I doubt they would have changed the pinout... They could have, though, so proceed with caution.

Edit: you can easily test whether the ground pin is the same by putting a multimeter probe on a termination of the black sleeved ground cable that leads to the plate and placing the other probe on each individual pin of the male connector.

Unfortunately I have no cable at all, just the internal plug, anyway i should be able to do this now, that pic is very useful, my chicony also has those marks it's just they're under the connector, so i can't clearly see what's written unless i desolder it, but well i should be able to recognize the letters, and check if they're matched, i could do this now, but without an active PS/2 to USB converter i don't think i could be able to try it. So i'll buy it first and then do everything.
I should be also able to do some retro-brighting of the shell and all the keycaps, as they look kinda yellowish, with hydrogen peroxide at 35%

P.S. Well i could try with a non active converter, the worst thing that could happen is the keyboard wouldn't work, right?

Okie. I'm just trying to keep you aware of all your options.

Glad you could source some Hydrogen Peroxide. Also happy that you don't have to spend time with a multimeter -- it's convenient when companies label their connectors.

Yep, you could try with a passive. It just wouldn't do anything -- your keyboards are only compatible with the XT and AT-PS/2 protocols. USB HID protocols are different.

ohaimark wrote: Okie. I'm just trying to keep you aware of all your options.

Glad you could source some Hydrogen Peroxide. Also happy that you don't have to spend time with a multimeter -- it's convenient when companies label their connectors.

Yep, you could try with a passive. It just wouldn't do anything -- your keyboards are only compatible with the XT and AT-PS/2 protocols. USB HID protocols are different.

Alright, it's just to give it a try and see if miraculously it works, anyway i'll see where i could easily buy that in europe

Alright so i soldered the cable directly on the PCB (it's just temporary, i'll use the original connector when i'm sure everything works perfectly) i tried using the passive converter, and switching through AT and XT, one of these makes the keyboard totally unresponsive, no leds, no inputs, nothing, the other one, not sure if AT or XT makes the caps numlck and scroll lock leds responsive when pressing the respective keys, but the rest just doesn't work at all, no input, just the LEDs.

Update: i tried the keyboard on my brother's pc which has a PS/2 connector, and it does pretty much the same as usb, but when i press any button all 3 LEDs light up and go out, every time i press a button that happens, if i press anything between caps lock, num lock and scroll lock, the respective LED lights up and if i press it again all 3 LEDs will blink once, just like the other keys. Any idea?

Could win 10 be a problem?

Update 2: I tried it on a winxp machine, an old pc i have in the closet and seems to work just fine, maybe some of the keys aren't very responsive, i had to press multiple time some of the keys to make it work, unless it's some sort of lag related to the different protocols used.
Tomorrow i'll make myself a good plug with the PS2 plug, and check better the keyboard, maybe replace few of the alps switches if needed.

You need an active converter.

If some of the switches don't respond properly, there's probably some crap in the switchplate. See if you can blow it out with some compressed air. Otherwise, you may have to replace it.

Great find though, congrats!

Chyros wrote: You need an active converter.

If some of the switches don't respond properly, there's probably some crap in the switchplate. See if you can blow it out with some compressed air. Otherwise, you may have to replace it.

Great find though, congrats!

Thanks! yes it's probably that because it's always the same bunch of keys not working properly, so i guess i'll just replace them, oh and i was so hyped i decided to skip the retrobrighting session for now and reassembled it all.
This is how it looks now:



Anyway i would bypass the PS/2 drivers matter by using the converter, right? because it works on winxp, but doesn't on win10. And also it seems i can't find that converter from sanoxy here in europe, can anyone point me into something pretty much identical, which surely works here in eu?

Yep, it bypasses the driver issue. If you know how to solder and feel comfortable flashing firmware you could make a Soarer's converter and stick it inside the keyboard so it appears to be native USB.

ohaimark wrote: Yep, it bypasses the driver issue. If you know how to solder and feel comfortable flashing firmware you could make a Soarer's converter and stick it inside the keyboard so it appears to be native USB.

That could go too, there's plenty of space in this kb.
Depends on how hard it is to do, and how much will i be spending to get everything, pretty much.

P.S. I was wondering if in terms of overall performance there would be some kind of improvement over a normal converter, apart from NKRO.

Besides being internal and having NKRO there aren't any real differences.

ohaimark wrote: Besides being internal and having NKRO there aren't any real differences.

Mmhh so i guess i better look for a decent converter here in eu, i couldn't find the one you suggested here, only on ebay from US which costed more for the shipping than for the actual thing, so...

edit: Any info on this? http://www.lindy-international.com/USB- ... 66&ci=8006

oxidized wrote:

ohaimark wrote: Besides being internal and having NKRO there aren't any real differences.

Mmhh so i guess i better look for a decent converter here in eu, i couldn't find the one you suggested here, only on ebay from US which costed more for the shipping than for the actual thing, so...

edit: Any info on this? http://www.lindy-international.com/USB- ... 66&ci=8006

That lindy one is good , ran an SSK and a RS232 ( with PS2 adaptor) CST trackball on one for about a year and had 0 issues.

Its the only one apart form the bluecube i would recommend or use myself so take that as an endorsement

andrewjoy wrote:

oxidized wrote:

ohaimark wrote: Besides being internal and having NKRO there aren't any real differences.

Mmhh so i guess i better look for a decent converter here in eu, i couldn't find the one you suggested here, only on ebay from US which costed more for the shipping than for the actual thing, so...

edit: Any info on this? http://www.lindy-international.com/USB- ... 66&ci=8006

That lindy one is good , ran an SSK and a RS232 ( with PS2 adaptor) CST trackball on one for about a year and had 0 issues.

Its the only one apart form the bluecube i would recommend or use myself so take that as an endorsement

Very well, imma buy it asap and let you know how it goes

So i've just received the Lindy PS2 to USB converter, seems to work flawlessy except few key which probably have a damaged switch, gonna replace them as soon as i can.
Or do you suggest just lubricate them?

I hate the 1x1 backspace button

New finding, looks like an IBM model m?

http://i.imgur.com/vudPYyS.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/o4UCgRQ.jpg

yup, thats a model m. how do you get so lucky finding all this good stuff? :p

mike52787 wrote: yup, thats a model m. how do you get so lucky finding all this good stuff? :p

Long story... pretty much where my brother is working

Anyway i'll clean that M good and see if i can find some replacement for the missing right ctrl cap. It seems to be working fine, tried it with the miraculous lindy ps2/usb converter. Anyway i should've more kbs on the way, still don't know exactly what those are tho, i'll have to wait

does he work at a recycling center or something?

mike52787 wrote: does he work at a recycling center or something?

Something like that, a place where they destroy things that aren't used anymore, not only computer stuff tho

Wait, it's on this side of the Atlantic! Is it the right time to put my name forward in case any exotic Alps switches find their way to you?