Leeku MX1800 L3 v1.6 Borked
Posted: 07 Aug 2017, 17:08
Hi,
So I pretty much finished up building my dream board, Leeku PCB, Steel plate, lubed vintage blacks with 67g springs, orange LEDs, and even had a Dolch PAC case ready to modify to put it in, and the matching caps, spent months getting all the bits together and weeks building it on and off.
Everything worked fine, after soldering the switches I tested each one and moved onto the LEDs.
Unfortunately I am an idiot, did my resistor calculations wrong and so the LEDs were drawing way to much power, some of the components were getting a little hot. I used JigON to change the LEDs to always off, which solved the heat issue.
What I should have done at this point was desoldered all the resistors and put new ones on. Unfortunately I am an idiot and decided to try out a "fading" mode on the LEDs. The LEDs would fade up, but after a certain point, the keyboard would disconnect and LEDs would turn off.
I STUPIDLY tried to go back to the working firmware with no LEDs on, in the process of flashing, it must have reset itself and now when I plug it in it comes up as an unrecognised device.
After reading around I found this article - keyboards-f2/today-i-f-ed-up-by-trying- ... 11450.html unfortunately it seems the newer revisions of the Leeku 1800 PCB don't have the pinouts that the old ones do, and now only have those that are required to put in an cable (i.e. vcc, d+, d- and ground), is it still possible to re-program this without removing the chip? Does anyone have any experience wiring directly to an atmega32a?
I have some arduino pro micros lying around that I can use as an AVR programmer, but I'm not 100% sure how, I'm, also obviously willing to buy a dedicated usb avr/isp programmer to fix this.
I was just wondering if someone has any advice, or could point me towards a guide on how to fix this. I am so angry at myself at the moment
So I pretty much finished up building my dream board, Leeku PCB, Steel plate, lubed vintage blacks with 67g springs, orange LEDs, and even had a Dolch PAC case ready to modify to put it in, and the matching caps, spent months getting all the bits together and weeks building it on and off.
Everything worked fine, after soldering the switches I tested each one and moved onto the LEDs.
Unfortunately I am an idiot, did my resistor calculations wrong and so the LEDs were drawing way to much power, some of the components were getting a little hot. I used JigON to change the LEDs to always off, which solved the heat issue.
What I should have done at this point was desoldered all the resistors and put new ones on. Unfortunately I am an idiot and decided to try out a "fading" mode on the LEDs. The LEDs would fade up, but after a certain point, the keyboard would disconnect and LEDs would turn off.
I STUPIDLY tried to go back to the working firmware with no LEDs on, in the process of flashing, it must have reset itself and now when I plug it in it comes up as an unrecognised device.
After reading around I found this article - keyboards-f2/today-i-f-ed-up-by-trying- ... 11450.html unfortunately it seems the newer revisions of the Leeku 1800 PCB don't have the pinouts that the old ones do, and now only have those that are required to put in an cable (i.e. vcc, d+, d- and ground), is it still possible to re-program this without removing the chip? Does anyone have any experience wiring directly to an atmega32a?
I have some arduino pro micros lying around that I can use as an AVR programmer, but I'm not 100% sure how, I'm, also obviously willing to buy a dedicated usb avr/isp programmer to fix this.
I was just wondering if someone has any advice, or could point me towards a guide on how to fix this. I am so angry at myself at the moment
