deskthority

Hello. Recently, I have been looking at getting a new keyboard. I am looking for a clicky keyboard but it can be tactile. But I'm on a very tight budget of 30-40-50 dollars, but 60 is reeeeeeally pushing it.

But, like Mr. Moo, I'm confused. Here are the ones I have considered:

IBM Model M

Don't care about labels or models (my dream one would be an m13 or ssk, but I will never find that), don't care about a bit of yellowing, don't care if it's a bit dirty. It just has to work and have a big enter key. I am compromising because you can't get them for cheap anymore. Problem is, those damn plastic rivets! I know you can mod them, but I don't have the right tools. And what if keys stop working after you get the keyboard? And now I don't even know if I would like the keyboard..

Dell AT102 European

I have seen them on ebay for okay prices (but some cross over the budget), but I heard that well used old alps keyboards kick the bucket early (10 million keystrokes). And what if I end up not as impressed, like with green alps? Aaargh!

Ace Pad Tech Clicky hall effect ISO keyboard

I know they cross the $40 bar, but maaybe I could compromise enough to get them just a bit over that. I think the 60% is the cheapest one. I would have liked the TKL better vecause of the arrow keys, but I need to go with the cheapest. I would like to go with a clicky variant (or do they not have those yet?) and one with a big enter key.

An old cherry MX blue keyboard

I know you hate them, but maybe they aren't that bad and I can find one for an OK. Not on eBay though!

My plan to save up money

I have got some old keyboards (Schneider G81 w/o OG keycaps, Sun Type 6, Zenith ZKB-7) that I'm going to sell to you at A FAIR PRICE, NOT EBAY over the coming months to save up money. I may even sell my current G80-1825, but not sure.
I also have some Cherry M9 switches left. Hopefully then, I won't have to step down on quality so much.

_____________________________

What should I go with? Do you have any recommendations? Should I NOT buy a keyboard? I am open to new ideas. Thank you.

Take a look here:
http://www.elecshopper.com/input-device ... ?limit=all
NMB space invaders, dell at101w, and NEC blue ovals will be the best for you. Sometimes you can even find a new NMB keyboard.

xxhellfirexx wrote: Take a look here:
http://www.elecshopper.com/input-device ... ?limit=all
NMB space invaders, dell at101w, and NEC blue ovals will be the best for you. Sometimes you can even find a new NMB keyboard.

Thank you for the link, though I forgot to mention that I'm in Europe, and they are in Texas.

I wonder if Wodan is still doing the "rabbit hole" kits and if you'd qualify for one...

Darkshado wrote: I wonder if Wodan is still doing the "rabbit hole" kits and if you'd qualify for one...

What are those kits?

green-squid wrote:

Darkshado wrote: I wonder if Wodan is still doing the "rabbit hole" kits and if you'd qualify for one...

What are those kits?

f-o-r-s-a-l-e-f58/deskthority-rabbit-ho ... 15396.html

Darkshado wrote: I wonder if Wodan is still doing the "rabbit hole" kits and if you'd qualify for one...

Yuuup i even have one packed and ready to ship

Wodan wrote:

Darkshado wrote: I wonder if Wodan is still doing the "rabbit hole" kits and if you'd qualify for one...

Yuuup i even have one packed and ready to ship

Woah!! That's so cool! You are so cool for selling these!! But I'm not sure I would want all of those keyboards. I'm torn between the Model M and the MX blue keyboard. On the one hand, the Model M is *the* keyboard, but then there is the thing with the plastic rivets. On the other hand, the Cherry keyboard is clicky with MX blues, and I have cherry doubleshots that would look great on it, but then you guys all say it SUCKS! But I don't know which one to go with.

Do you think the plastic rivet issue is a smaller issue then I'm saying?

here you go.. nice tactile blue switches and disco lighting for €46,44 with free shipping ..hahahaa

https://www.banggood.com/Motospeed-K87S ... rehouse=CN

you could always try to build one your self..
i was surprised to see how cheap a GH60 PCB costs.. €28
of course that going the DIY road don't know if going in to that rabbit hole will save you € in the end.. doubt it..hahaha

https://www.banggood.com/GH60-DIY-Mecha ... rehouse=CN

TuxKey wrote: here you go.. nice tactile blue switches and disco lighting for €46,44 with free shipping ..hahahaa

https://www.banggood.com/Motospeed-K87S ... rehouse=CN

Not a fan of the design honestly. Don't really like these.

green-squid wrote:
Not a fan of the design honestly. Don't really like these.

Don't blame you me neither..i prefer the Tada68 layout.. and leopold FC660...both much more expensive alas.

But looking at what people are doing with the GH60 amaizing.. nice builds on a budget..still you would have to solder.. or pay someone to do it.. lot's of stores that do that for you like kbdfans..

If you can go the classic / retro way why not.. don't know anyone that's located in EU...shipping one of those old heavy beasts is not cheap..

is this your dream board ??
https://www.ebay.com/p/IBM-Black-Keyboa ... 1974721323

OMG that's expensive hahaha...total $175...

TuxKey wrote: is this your dream board ??
https://www.ebay.com/p/IBM-Black-Keyboa ... 1974721323

OMG that's expensive hahaha...total $175...

Yeah, but even I'm not sure what would be the perfect keyboard for me..

TuxKey wrote:

green-squid wrote:
Not a fan of the design honestly. Don't really like these.

Don't blame you me neither..i prefer the Tada68 layout.. and leopold FC660...both much more expensive alas.

But looking at what people are doing with the GH60 amaizing.. nice builds on a budget..still you would have to solder.. or pay someone to do it.. lot's of stores that do that for you like kbdfans..

If you can go the classic / retro way why not.. don't know anyone that's located in EU...shipping one of those old heavy beasts is not cheap..

I'm not afraid of doing a build, but the costs add up VERY quickly..

green-squid wrote: I'm torn between the Model M and the MX blue keyboard. On the one hand, the Model M is *the* keyboard, but then there is the thing with the plastic rivets. On the other hand, the Cherry keyboard is clicky with MX blues, and I have cherry doubleshots that would look great on it, but then you guys all say it SUCKS! But I don't know which one to go with.

I'm not a fan myself, but don't let the posters here stop you from trying a popular and common switch. Worst case, put those doubleshots on and use it as a showpiece.

Do you think the plastic rivet issue is a smaller issue then I'm saying?

Yes: you could have lost some rivets and the keyboard would still work. Its key feel (tactility) might not be as crisp but it'd still register consistently. Keep in mind that broken rivets can be repaired with a screw or bolt mod, disassembling the "sandwich" is not mandatory by doing only the affected spots. The keyboard case is easy to open once you have the correct 7/32" (5.5mm works as well) thin walled hex driver.

Regards,

Darkshado

Thank you darkshado

If I get a Model M with that issue, I will take it apart and try hot gluing the rivets back before a possible screw mod.

Darkshado wrote: I'm not a fan myself, but don't let the posters here stop you from trying a popular and common switch. Worst case, put those doubleshots on and use it as a showpiece.

Absolutely. It's all highly personal what kind of switch appeals to you and which ones don't. From the wording of some posts you would think only their taste matters and all else is junk. The preferences of someone else don't have to become your preferences.

green-squid wrote: Dell AT102 European

I have seen them on ebay for okay prices (but some cross over the budget), but I heard that well used old alps keyboards kick the bucket early (10 million keystrokes). And what if I end up not as impressed, like with green alps? Aaargh!

I wonder, how many keystrokes does a keyboard get on average in its lifetime? How much does it matter if a switch can last for 10 million keystrokes or 100 million? Did anyone ever manage to wear out such a switch?

Iggy wrote:

Darkshado wrote: I'm not a fan myself, but don't let the posters here stop you from trying a popular and common switch. Worst case, put those doubleshots on and use it as a showpiece.

Absolutely. It's all highly personal what kind of switch appeals to you and which ones don't. From the wording of some posts you would think only their taste matters and all else is junk. The preferences of someone else don't have to become your preferences.

green-squid wrote: Dell AT102 European

I have seen them on ebay for okay prices (but some cross over the budget), but I heard that well used old alps keyboards kick the bucket early (10 million keystrokes). And what if I end up not as impressed, like with green alps? Aaargh!

I wonder, how many keystrokes does a keyboard get on average in its lifetime? How much does it matter if a switch can last for 10 million keystrokes or 100 million? Did anyone ever manage to wear out such a switch?

A LOT of these keyboard were used in office environments, so that means a LOT of wear and tear. I think those Alps boards are at least halfway through their life.

green-squid wrote: Thank you darkshado

If I get a Model M with that issue, I will take it apart and try hot gluing the rivets back before a possible screw mod.

Hot glue and epoxy would probably get in all sorts of places they don't belong on a Model M assembly. Worse, they'd likely complicate a proper future repair.

Get proper tools (e.g. hex driver, rotary tool, fasteners) and do it correctly the first time.

(Edit: grammar)

Darkshado wrote:

green-squid wrote: Thank you darkshado

If I get a Model M with that issue, I will take it apart and try hot gluing the rivets back before a possible screw mod.

Hot glue and epoxy would probably get in all sorts of place they don't belong on a Model M assembly. Worse, they'd likely complicate a proper future repair.

Get proper tools (e.g. hex driver, rotary tool, fasteners) and do it correctly the first time.

Okay. I will not do that.

As someone who tried to see if hot-snot might be an option with a model M, it doesn't work at all; the metal plate is a giant heatsink and the glue cools too quickly to bond with anything properly.