deskthority

Hey everyone.

I want a Tenkeyless Keyboard. But i don't know what to choose!
If u had the money what well u buy? Wait to Ducky's news? Go for Filco Ninja 2?
I've already return my 14 day's old Cm Quickfire Rapid Red back, so therefor I want a new one
and a very good one!

Btw, I'm from Denmark and looking for ISO Keyboard Layout.

Best Regard.

Well, if you want a tenkeyless with MX switches you won't get much better than the QFR, although the Filco will get you a better looking, if more expensive board. If money was no object I'd probably go for a Realforce tenkeyless, but if you don't want to go that high or just want MX then a Filco. Although with a Filco you lose the media keys on the QFR, not a big deal, but something to keep in mind.
If you don't want to change caps or anything though, I'd probably go for a Ducky with PBT caps.

So;
MX switches:
Money no object:
Filco - I would recommend getting a new set of caps
Ducky with PBT caps

Bang for your buck - QFR; same quality as Filco, considerably cheaper and has more features.

Topre:
Realforce tenkeyless

All of these are available in ISO, I believe both Ducky and QFR boards can be bought from within Denmark, Filco and Realforce would have to be bought from England, or possibly Finland, not sure if Verkkokauppa ships outside of Finland. I think they might, at least if you email them first.

vun wrote:Well, if you want a tenkeyless with MX switches you won't get much better than the QFR, although the Filco will get you a better looking, if more expensive board. If money was no object I'd probably go for a Realforce tenkeyless, but if you don't want to go that high or just want MX then a Filco. Although with a Filco you lose the media keys on the QFR, not a big deal, but something to keep in mind.
If you don't want to change caps or anything though, I'd probably go for a Ducky with PBT caps.

So;
MX switches:
Money no object:
Filco - I would recommend getting a new set of caps
Ducky with PBT caps

Bang for your buck - QFR; same quality as Filco, considerably cheaper and has more features.

Topre:
Realforce tenkeyless

All of these are available in ISO, I believe both Ducky and QFR boards can be bought from within Denmark, Filco and Realforce would have to be bought from England, or possibly Finland, not sure if Verkkokauppa ships outside of Finland. I think they might, at least if you email them first.

The QFR Red I've just return it back. I had problem with the button. The stuck when I play.
Not all the caps did't but many. Therefore no more QFR. I just want to se the news about Ducky last hardware.
I'm not that guy that is a huge fan of LED or media keys. It's sad that Filco don't make the Ninja2 with PBT.
What do u have to say about White PBT caps? With the time well they be dirty and change color?

All caps gets dirty if you use them but PBT wear alot slower and is less prone to get dirty in my experiance.

The question is are you going to have the same experiance with a Filco. Have you analysed what the problem was?

Is double tapping the problem?

tlt wrote:All caps gets dirty if you use them but PBT wear alot slower and is less prune to get dirty in my experiance.

The question is are you going to have the same experiance with a Filco. Have you analysed what the problem was?

Is double tapping the problem?

Since both Filco and QFR are both made by Costar I'd imagine both are prone to the same errors, although I've seen more QFR users report problems, not sure if Filco has better QC or if it's simply because there are more QFRs and therefore will be a higher number of bad boards, even if the % of bad boards is the same for both brands.

Ducky have also had their share of problems, I can't really recall, but getting a Ducky is in no way safer than getting a QFR. It is, however, safer than a Filco if you can get the Ducky from a Danish retailer due to easier RMA if it does fail. The Filco would have to be shipped out of the country, although if you order from Keyboardco they will do their best to make the process as painless as possible.

But what do you mean with stuck? Was the key pushed in and wouldn't return out ? Was it because of the keycaps or the case? Or was it a problem with the switches?

vun wrote:

tlt wrote:All caps gets dirty if you use them but PBT wear alot slower and is less prune to get dirty in my experiance.

The question is are you going to have the same experiance with a Filco. Have you analysed what the problem was?

Is double tapping the problem?

Since both Filco and QFR are both made by Costar I'd imagine both are prone to the same errors, although I've seen more QFR users report problems, not sure if Filco has better QC or if it's simply because there are more QFRs and therefore will be a higher number of bad boards, even if the % of bad boards is the same for both brands.

Ducky have also had their share of problems, I can't really recall, but getting a Ducky is in no way safer than getting a QFR. It is, however, safer than a Filco if you can get the Ducky from a Danish retailer due to easier RMA if it does fail. The Filco would have to be shipped out of the country, although if you order from Keyboardco they will do their best to make the process as painless as possible.

The same question I asked myself if I would have the same problem with a different brand. That's a tough decision.
There are no Danish company that sell Ducky TKL only Swedish.

tlt wrote:But what do you mean with stuck? Was the key pushed in and wouldn't return out ? Was it because of the keycaps or the case? Or was it a problem with the switches?

You could not pres the key button from the corner. You have to push it down from the center.
If u hit a little bit the key button from the side or corner it's well give u a hard felling like it's stuck.
It did feel so wrong I hated it. It's does it with A, W, Ctrl, TAP, Backspace, I. This is something u have to feel.

I recently got a Filco 2 with blues, only my second mechanical keyboard after my steelseries 6gv2 so don't have much to compare it to but I'm loving it. Since QFR with browns or blues is really expensive to get here in the Netherlands I'd figure I might aswell get the Filco so I'll be sure I'd be getting the best that cherry mx switched have to offer.

Slink wrote:I recently got a Filco 2 with blues, only my second mechanical keyboard after my steelseries 6gv2 so don't have much to compare it to but I'm loving it. Since QFR with browns or blues is really expensive to get here in the Netherlands I'd figure I might aswell get the Filco so I'll be sure I'd be getting the best that cherry mx switched have to offer.

In Denmark QFR is the most inexpensive! Very strange ...

Jaffa wrote:

tlt wrote:But what do you mean with stuck? Was the key pushed in and wouldn't return out ? Was it because of the keycaps or the case? Or was it a problem with the switches?

You could not pres the key button from the corner. You have to push it down from the center.
If u hit a little bit the key button from the side or corner it's well give u a hard felling like it's stuck.
It did feel so wrong I hated it. It's does it with A, W, Ctrl, TAP, Backspace, I. This is something u have to feel.

Jaffa, the problem you are describing is not so much about the keyboard brand, but rather about the switches.
If you need smoother switches, get a keyboard with Topre, such as a Realforce.
If you want to stay with cherries, you probably need to lube them. I know the issue you are talking about. By the way, the smoothest cherry MX switches I have tried are the MX blacks... they are heavier than reds, but smoother at the same time.

By the way, for a great quality keyboard with cherry switches, take a look at wasdkeyboards.com

sordna wrote:

Jaffa wrote:

tlt wrote:But what do you mean with stuck? Was the key pushed in and wouldn't return out ? Was it because of the keycaps or the case? Or was it a problem with the switches?

You could not pres the key button from the corner. You have to push it down from the center.
If u hit a little bit the key button from the side or corner it's well give u a hard felling like it's stuck.
It did feel so wrong I hated it. It's does it with A, W, Ctrl, TAP, Backspace, I. This is something u have to feel.

Jaffa, the problem you are describing is not so much about the keyboard brand, but rather about the switches.
If you need smoother switches, get a keyboard with Topre, such as a Realforce.
If you want to stay with cherries, you probably need to lube them. I know the issue you are talking about. By the way, the smoothest cherry MX switches I have tried are the MX blacks... they are heavier than reds, but smoother at the same time.

By the way, for a great quality keyboard with cherry switches, take a look at wasdkeyboards.com

Finally one that understand my problem. That's exactly what I felt they need to be lube!
Well I get the same result with the brown/blue switches? I just don't like the Realforce, sorry!

I was also thinking that you might just not like Cherry MX. So many broken switches in a board would be very unlikely.

Jaffa wrote:Well I get the same result with the brown/blue switches?

I think browns and blues will probably feel worse for you. It seems like you want very smooth linear switches so maybe
lubed blacks or reds would work. Most Topre switches are really smooth and tactile, I read somewhere that there are a 30g variant that might be something for you but I think it's really hard to get hold of.

tlt wrote:I was also thinking that you might just not like Cherry MX. So many broken switches in a board would be very unlikely.

Jaffa wrote:Well I get the same result with the brown/blue switches?

I think browns and blues will probably feel worse for you. It seems like you want very smooth linear switches so maybe
lubed blacks or reds would work. Most Topre switches are really smooth and tactile, I read somewhere that there are a 30g variant that might be something for you but I think it's really hard to get hold of.

I like the Cherry MX very much. Don't get me wrong, it was only some keycaps that did that shit.
I only been able to try the Red's. But typing on the Red's was not that good. It going to fast!
And some times a press a key twice.. Cooler Master coon sell the new Stealth.

Hi, from Denmark also.
Komplett has an offer on a QFR with black switches at the moment, maybe you should give that a try. If you'd like to try them first, just go to Fona, Elgiganten, Expert or wherever they sell steel series 6v, as it has a hole in the box where you can try the switches.

To be honest I don't really think that you will have better chances at avoiding "bad" switches if you choose another keyboard, so just go with QFR unless you really would like to try another brand.

Broadmonkey wrote:Hi, from Denmark also.
Komplett has an offer on a QFR with black switches at the moment, maybe you should give that a try. If you'd like to try them first, just go to Fona, Elgiganten, Expert or wherever they sell steel series 6v, as it has a hole in the box where you can try the switches.

To be honest I don't really think that you will have better chances at avoiding "bad" switches if you choose another keyboard, so just go with QFR unless you really would like to try another brand.

Thx so much for telling me that. After have read so much stuff I find out what was wrong. I have to lube those switch/caps
or they will "stracht" or stock like I feel it. I like so much the QFR but when I play BF3 everytime some key STOCK and I got killed. I will think about it again and go see how the black switches feel's. Tak!

This is so funny. Maybe I'l have to call them back to get my QFR back, that so LOL!

You shouldn't have too lube your switches in order for them not sticking, all lubing does is making them feel smoother (basically). it's also very hard to lube platemounted cherry switches since it requires you to desolder them first, in which case you can change out the bad switches if you buy some spares (they are about 3,5 DKK each).

The next i'll just write in danish, sorry:
Føler du at dine taster sidder fast eller at de er ru/træge i bevægelsen, altså at du kan mærke plastiken gå mod plastik inde i tasten i bevægelsen op/ned? det er lidt en følelse af, at de ikke bevæger sig i en helt lineær bevægelse men i små hak hvis du bevæger tasten langsomt.

Broadmonkey wrote:You shouldn't have too lube your switches in order for them not sticking, all lubing does is making them feel smoother (basically). it's also very hard to lube platemounted cherry switches since it requires you to desolder them first, in which case you can change out the bad switches if you buy some spares (they are about 3,5 DKK each).

The next i'll just write in danish, sorry:
Føler du at dine taster sidder fast eller at de er ru/træge i bevægelsen, altså at du kan mærke plastiken gå mod plastik inde i tasten i bevægelsen op/ned? det er lidt en følelse af, at de ikke bevæger sig i en helt lineær bevægelse men i små hak hvis du bevæger tasten langsomt.

Du beskriver det perfekt!
Det er lige præcis hvad jeg føler. Men mest når jeg trykker ned og ikke op at den hakker og i nogen tilfælde
så skal der et ekstra pres ned for at komme i bund. Det som om den mangler noget af retning af olie/fedt!
Hvorfor? Jeg har læst på geekhack at det er lige præcis det problem jeg har og der er en stor guide til hvordan
det kan ændres, da mange folk har det "problem".

ENG:

That's exactly how I feel. But most when I press down and not up to the chopper and in some cases
then there is an extra pressure down to get to the bottom.
It is as if something is missing from the direction of the oil / grease!
Why? I have read on geekhack that this is exactly the problem I have and there is a great guide to how
it can be changed, as many people have the "problem".

I'l just try the black Switch's the are smooth but not my style.
I found out that, the was nothing wrong with my QFR, all Switch feel like that!