deskthority

Heya,

I was wondering whether or not it was worth purchasing this: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Bulk-lot-of- ... 0d2&_uhb=1
Postage is $35

Thanks!

An informative and honest auction description on eBay for once....

The Acer switches are clicky but not my favourite at all. Very light.
The AST looks like a rubber dome AST keyboard I have seen before. The Honeywell keyboard is a Key Tronic with stiff, mushy rubber domes.
The Gold keyboard is white between the keycaps, so it is probably slider over rubber dome.

I would pass, unless I was in dire need of Alps-compatible keycaps, or I could pick up in person.

Informative indeed. I did wonder why they said so little about the Honeywell, but not now! Pity, as its case was saying "Apple Extended Keyboard II" to me.

Findecanor wrote:An informative and honest auction description on eBay for once....

The Acer switches are clicky but not my favourite at all. Very light.
The AST looks like a rubber dome AST keyboard I have seen before. The Honeywell keyboard is a Key Tronic with stiff, mushy rubber domes.
The Gold keyboard is white between the keycaps, so it is probably slider over rubber dome.

I would pass, unless I was in dire need of Alps-compatible keycaps, or I could pick up in person.

I know right, I'm guessing the bloak knows his stuff.
Would definitely buy if I could pick it up, unfortunately it's in the other side of Australia. I'll take a pass on this one yeah

Muirium wrote:Informative indeed. I did wonder why they said so little about the Honeywell, but not now! Pity, as its case was saying "Apple Extended Keyboard II" to me.

There just so happens to be an AEKII as well for $10 (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Apple-Extend ... 89e&_uhb=1), unfortunately it's an hour drive away and the seller seems pretty detracted from shipping. I'll see if I can persuade him

Looks pretty nice. A key thing to look out for in AEKs (and many old boards) is yellowing on the space bar. All the other keys on an AEK II are PBT and don't yellow anything like as quick as the ABS space bar. Yellowing's not the end of the world, but it is nice to avoid it.

You'll need a cable, and likely a converter, to use that board. ADB uses the same cables as s-video, if you can find those. And Hasu has code to make a Teensy based ADB to USB converter with all his usual fancy logic bundled in. That's how I use my old Apple boards.

Muirium wrote:Looks pretty nice. A key thing to look out for in AEKs (and many old boards) is yellowing on the space bar. All the other keys on an AEK II are PBT and don't yellow anything like as quick as the ABS space bar. Yellowing's not the end of the world, but it is nice to avoid it.

You'll need a cable, and likely a converter, to use that board. ADB uses the same cables as s-video, if you can find those. And Hasu has code to make a Teensy based ADB to USB converter with all his usual fancy logic bundled in. That's how I use my old Apple boards.

If I get it, I'd likely clean it up and keep it as a collectable. Teesny's were way more expensive than I was anticipating with shipping attached. $35 on a Teensy for my adds 1010 conversion project.

The seller just got back to me, he's willing to ship it if I foot the bill
Postage estimate is around $15... hopefully nothing more

Teensies cost less when you get a few together. (I literally had a bag of 50 of them here some months ago, as I proxied for a Teensy GB where we spent $15 on them each. Naturally, I need more now…) There's also a cheaper non-Teensy option for converter use, which I haven't tried yet but does run the same software; it's the boot loader that's different, so configuration is more of a pain I'm told. Those are something like 4 USD, I think. I'll know more when I try…

Muirium wrote:Teensies cost less when you get a few together. (I literally had a bag of 50 of them here some months ago, as I proxied for a Teensy GB where we spent $15 on them each. Naturally, I need more now…) There's also a cheaper non-Teensy option for converter use, which I haven't tried yet but does run the same software; it's the boot loader that's different, so configuration is more of a pain I'm told. Those are something like 4 USD, I think. I'll know more when I try…

Haha, that's dedication right there!
Could you shoot me some links to the cheapo controllers and how to set them up as converters? I just hit buy

*shrieks like a little girl* (New to vintage keyboards, I think I may have found my one true love)

bitemyweewee wrote:[…] *shrieks like a little girl* (New to vintage keyboards, I think I may have found my one first true love)

Welcome

Here's a thread about them:

http://deskthority.net/workshop-f7/teen ... t4253.html

Scottc knows more than I do, I'll go ask…

Hi!

bitemyweewee wrote:

Muirium wrote:Teensies cost less when you get a few together. (I literally had a bag of 50 of them here some months ago, as I proxied for a Teensy GB where we spent $15 on them each. Naturally, I need more now…) There's also a cheaper non-Teensy option for converter use, which I haven't tried yet but does run the same software; it's the boot loader that's different, so configuration is more of a pain I'm told. Those are something like 4 USD, I think. I'll know more when I try…

Haha, that's dedication right there!
Could you shoot me some links to the cheapo controllers and how to set them up as converters? I just hit buy

*shrieks like a little girl* (New to vintage keyboards, I think I may have found my one true love)

You can get Pro Micro clones on eBay for about €5. I'm not sure where you are, so here is a link from my local eBay.

They aren't as convenient as a Teensy for a few reasons:

• - No hardware RST button: to go into bootloader mode, you need to short the RST pin twice manually as it boots.
  
  - Arduino bootloader: the board won't respond for the first 5 - 10 seconds that you plug it in with the default bootloader. But you can replace this with LUFA and it works fine.
  
  - Nothing as easy as the Teensy one-click flashing utility for flashing it. But I just do this on GNU/Linux:

  Code: Select all

  avrdude -p atmega32u4 -P /dev/ttyACM0  -c avr109  -U flash:w:filename.hex

scottc wrote:Hi!

You can get Pro Micro clones on eBay for about €5. I'm not sure where you are, so here is a link from my local eBay.

They aren't as convenient as a Teensy for a few reasons:

• - No hardware RST button: to go into bootloader mode, you need to short the RST pin twice manually as it boots.
  
  - Arduino bootloader: the board won't respond for the first 5 - 10 seconds that you plug it in with the default bootloader. But you can replace this with LUFA and it works fine.
  
  - Nothing as easy as the Teensy one-click flashing utility for flashing it. But I just do this on GNU/Linux:

  Code: Select all

  avrdude -p atmega32u4 -P /dev/ttyACM0  -c avr109  -U flash:w:filename.hex

I'm cool with those quirks, luckily I run Mint so it looks like I'm pretty set for flashing (GNU/Linux master race).
Thanks for your expertise!

Great! Bear in mind that the Pro Micro has fewer pins than a Teensy too. Later on I'll dig up the pinout diagram for the Pro Micro in Teensy-ish terms which makes it easier to read docs made by people with Teensies in mind. Good luck!

For the price that thing looks pretty cool. Did you get TMK running on one yet?

This is especially awesome:

USB port is also available in single row pin strip to connect a USB cable

How do you specify them to send one without the socket? Because that's pretty useful!

I'm thinking of picking up a few for converter duties (freei up precious Teensies for controller work) and I'd like them without socket, as I'll fit my own on a wire.

Also interested to know how to swap the boot loader to the fast loading LUFA one.

Looks like the module always comes with the usb socket but also has pads for the usb connection so you could probably desolder the socket and use a pin header instead.

Hey ne0. I've gotten both TMK and Soarer's working on it with no problems.

Don't be alarmed but I've found this old workstation 122 key board.
I asked the seller to take a pic with a keycap off and it turns out they're MX Blacks (Luckily he doesn't know what they're)
It's going for around $20 inc postage, could be quite harvest
He's also got 4 more vintage keyboards going up tonight, so I'm super keen to see what they are!

122 key Cherry boards are quite interesting. Especially for decking out with 7bit's caps! They were Cherry's copycat alternative to IBM's own 122 key Fs and Ms, so the layout is the same, but the caps options these days are greatly superior!

Also watch out for any Super Blacks. You'll know what I mean when you press the key with the Cherry logo on it!

Muirium wrote:122 key Cherry boards are quite interesting. Especially for decking out with 7bit's caps! They were Cherry's copycat alternative to IBM's own 122 key Fs and Ms, so the layout is the same, but the caps options these days are greatly superior!

Also watch out for any Super Blacks. You'll know what I mean when you press the key with the Cherry logo on it!

(http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/ivispi/m.htm ... 7675.l2562) Here's the chaps' listings. The maple is the one I'm taking about and I know at least 2 of his other keyboards are alps, the win 95 keyboard is membrane but I'm not sure of the keytronic.
If only I could pickup, otherwise I'd get them all.
Are superbkacks rare and sought after kind of? I wouldn't be a fan but... Hey, you never know.

Rare… kinda. I haven't got one in my little switch stash, at least. Sought after? Hmm, I don't know. They're much too heavy to type on, by design. The whole point of them is as a safety switch that's hard to press by accident.

Muirium wrote:Rare… kinda. I haven't got one in my little switch stash, at least. Sought after? Hmm, I don't know. They're much too heavy to type on, by design. The whole point of them is as a safety switch that's hard to press by accident.

I wouldn't mind if they were all superblacks to be honest. It'd be worth the laugh

Exactly what I would need for Caps Lock. And I'd prefer it to be superclicky, too.

The key left of A is prime, prime real-estate! Not to be wasted on frivolous things like caps lock. That's what the two shifts are for! (As a macro…)

I can see the use for super blacks outside of the 60%. Way out of town.

My AEKII's in mail!
Postage ended up being $12.75 for a total of $22.75 which I think is pretty good.
Though, I can't say if whether I'll be a fan of the apparent "rubber dome ish" feel.
Do you know if it's possible to remove the foam inserts on the sides of Alps Cream dampened switches (that's if they're actually cream )?
I was hoping that would accomplish the same feel as the salmons.

Damped Alps are an acquired taste. I likely would have shrugged off my AEK II (with damped white Alps) if I got it a year earlier. But as I've racked up a lot of typing on clicky MX and buckling spring now, I'm rather partial to damped switches for their different feel. Give it a little patience!

Swapping switches in plate mounted Alps is probably as much work as plate mounted Cherry MX. But I've never done it, so who knows. Someone posted something similar recently:

http://deskthority.net/keyboards-f2/thi ... t8056.html

7bit sells new Matias switches for a nice low price. So if you do want to alter the keyboard's feel, those are a good way to go. You get a choice there between damped tactile and outright clicky. And I might be interested in the Alps that you remove!

Muirium wrote:Damped Alps are an acquired taste. I likely would have shrugged off my AEK II (with damped white Alps) if I got it a year earlier. But as I've racked up a lot of typing on clicky MX and buckling spring now, I'm rather partial to damped switches for their different feel. Give it a little patience!

Swapping switches in plate mounted Alps is probably as much work as plate mounted Cherry MX. But I've never done it, so who knows. Someone posted something similar recently:

http://deskthority.net/keyboards-f2/thi ... t8056.html

7bit sells new Matias switches for a nice low price. So if you do want to alter the keyboard's feel, those are a good way to go. You get a choice there between damped tactile and outright clicky. And I might be interested in the Alps that you remove!

I shall, I may end up keeping it at my fathers for use on weekends and cart it to work (co-workers probably wouldn't like it if I modded it)
I'm pretty handy with a soldering iron so it's nothing but time consuming to switch out plate mounted switches (if only all plates were designed like phantoms), though I don't think it's required to get access the sliders, you can just take off the top of the switch with 2 flat head screw drivers.

bitemyweewee wrote:you can just take off the top of the switch with 2 flat head screw drivers.

Is that the case for Alps? I've just that one board, and haven't tried fiddling with it.

Muirium wrote:

bitemyweewee wrote:you can just take off the top of the switch with 2 flat head screw drivers.

Is that the case for Alps? I've just that one board, and haven't tried fiddling with it.

Sure can
http://imgur.com/a/elAFF
What's with the passive aggressive beef I've heard whispered about Ripster by the way?