No diodes and you may end up with a ghosting nightmare. Let alone no NKRO.

wiki/Rollover,_blocking_and_ghosting

N-key rollover sounds superfluous (when do I hit > 6 or 10 keys?) but it's just a shorthand for "no blocking or ghosting". Diodes mean you escape even having to think about such issues. You can hook up whatever matrix you like. But skip them, and you must be sneaky. Like IBM's maze of rollover choices in the Model M. There will always be "bad combinations" and then your job is to assign them wisely.

So, diodes: totally worth it!

the diode acts like a sort of semaphore that blocks the signal on the right col when the key is pressed.

matt3o wrote:

phosphorglow wrote:Just wanted to say how fantastically gorgeous this board is! I love everything about it - very nice work sir!

thanks!

we might have a GB this year to build these kind of keyboards... maybe I could set up 3 layouts to choose from (sub-60%, 60%, 65%)...

Would be interested

mee too!
but only if I would be somehow able to include in it an intellipoint (or how this is called not to steal some lenovo/ibm copyrighted word..)..

tent:wq

If it's a TrackPoint (TM?) you're after, it's definitely possible but adds to the cost and complexity. A bunch of people around here have done it: lowpoly (he's back!), suka (many times over), possibly hasu, pjmelon is working on one now, myself, and maybe more. There are a lot of choices in how to implement it, so probably the first step is to figure out if enough people are interested and if an agreement can be reached as to how it should be done and what parts to use.

The hardest way IMHO is to find the trackpoint (in a new device) and the replacement parts as the little red caps (or any colour but red is the mostly used) Is there some mountable trackpoint shells available in stores like Adafruit ?

The trackpoint caps are readily available on ebay as are used thinkpad keyboards. The older model keyboards seem to be better in terms of comprehensible electronics. It is not too difficult to do.
The challenging thing is getting the mounting for the trackpoint perfect.
I am finalizing my build for my keyboard and when complete (it is built just have some coding issues with the keyboard firmware) I will post complete pictures. I want the final photos as a bit of a surprise but from them you will be able to see how the trackpoint is mounted. My mounting uses the original mounting hardware from the thinkpad keyboard and seems different from many other builds.

I will also post a tutorial on how I built it. I learnt a lot from matt3o's tutorial and hope that I can help others in their endeavor in a similar way.

wow that would be great!
I'm already curious: did you get ps2 or usb interface from those reused laptop keyboards? and how did you combine them (if usb I suppose as simple as a hub), etc.?

tent

The reused laptop keyboards are a ps2 interface I believe. I used hasu's onekey code to build my firmware and help from hasu, suka and a few others to figure out how to get the teensy to work properly.
It is a simple matter of attaching the right wires to the teensy and programming it.

Have a look at suka's thread (workshop-f7/my-diy-keyboard-collection-or-how-i-became-a-kb-geek-t2534-30.html#p47258)

how many ohm/watt resistors for LED? i will add 3LED for caps and 2 modes

any LED will do. the rule is the lower the LED the higher the resistor.

Look for an LED resistor calculator on the web. You should be able to work out the numbers based on what you have and what you're trying to do.

matt3o wrote:any LED will do. the rule is the lower the LED the higher the resistor.

i don't know the size,i remmeber it really fit with 5mm hole,i get from my old RD keyboard bigger than of LED on mecha keyboard.
EDIT:I find arround 10mm so how many ohm for resistor?

10mm?! that's not an LED it's a lamp!

really
this pic more details

finally i can upload

The one on the left looks like an ordinary 5 mm LED to me. The one on the right is the odd one.

the one on the right is 3mm, not 5mm (why odd?)

i'm confused i have one more is 3mm fit for LED MX and in images(5mm) not fit because there is like a circle on the side
how to resistor?

you need 3mm T1 LED. The voltage will likely be around 3v but you also need to know the amperage (usually 3.4V, 20mA). Just find an online resistor calculator and check what resistor you need. Probably something around 82ohm

PS: when in doubt, take a slightly bigger resistor

Yes it's 3mm. If you want to reuse some 5mm, you have to sand it to fit in the MX slot witch is not the best solution. As Matteo said, If you have a calculation witch gives you an inbetween value, the rule is always take an higher resistor value (for example, if it's 82ohms take a 100 instead of choosing a 50ohms) The brightness will be lower (a bit) but the led must live longer than at its best ohm value : the calculation gives you a minimum resistor value to not burn the led .

Is detachable cable direct from controller is good idea or not?

It works. The Mini USB socket is quite tight. Only a really big tug on the cable outside will pull it out. And you should put something to prevent that around your cable at the hole where it comes out the case, anyway.

I prefer an external socket so I can have a detachable cable (just like how I prefer all keyboards). But that's a lot more work. You have to file a hole big enough for a socket to sit, then glue it all together. Plus you need to make your own little Mini USB lead inside the case, because all you're really making is an extender.

Muirium wrote:It works. The Mini USB socket is quite tight. Only a really big tug on the cable outside will pull it out. And you should put something to prevent that around your cable at the hole where it comes out the case, anyway.

I prefer an external socket so I can have a detachable cable (just like how I prefer all keyboards). But that's a lot more work. You have to file a hole big enough for a socket to sit, then glue it all together. Plus you need to make your own little Mini USB lead inside the case, because all you're really making is an extender.

btw i use pro micro and micro usb quite tight maybe i use cable regular not detachable,or direct controller
external socket USB/mini usb is easily separte i've try and somitimes not detected

Hi Matt3o: Nice job! Very inspiring. I'm evaluating the best option for me, build it with wiring or buy a PCB. I'm curious, how did you get fixed the switches? hot glue?
Many thanks,
Miguel

MX switches have plastic clips in their shells, so they clip straight into a plate quite nicely. The plate keeps them good and still, even before they're soldered. This is why we like making keyboards with plates: they feel nice and tight and are quite simple to build.

A PCB is a nice addition to a plate mount custom keyboard. But not essential. Hand wiring is possible, too. But soldering switches into a PCB is quicker.

Thanks, Muirium.

Thanks for making this awesome keyboard and guide, I'm gonna have to make a "bluefox" some day. It just looks so good i need to have one..

Did you try to make the bottom plate in steel? I'm currently starting a project to make an "fps" keyboard with only 20 keys. I think steel would look awesome. Also, how about anodizing the top aluminium plate to give it a nice black color?

Where did you buy your teensy in europe? A 20£ controller is pretty expensive for such a small keyboard I'm building, are there any other options out there, besides using old controllers?

Again, really love the brownfox

thanks!

I buy my teensies on http://www.watterott.com. They go for 15 euros.

Steel is a nice alternative, actually my first custom was 100% steel. The problem with hard metals is that they are tiring to type on, especially if you use light spring switches. It seems that is the reason why Koreans prefer acrylic custom cases.

You may want to add o-rings to your caps with steel plates, but it might not be enough.

bktlr wrote:Thanks for making this awesome keyboard and guide, I'm gonna have to make a "bluefox" some day. It just looks so good i need to have one..

Did you try to make the bottom plate in steel? I'm currently starting a project to make an "fps" keyboard with only 20 keys. I think steel would look awesome. Also, how about anodizing the top aluminium plate to give it a nice black color?

Where did you buy your teensy in europe? A 20£ controller is pretty expensive for such a small keyboard I'm building, are there any other options out there, besides using old controllers?

Again, really love the brownfox

have a look at my much more basic guide

workshop-f7/a-basic-easy-keyboard-build-t7222.html

I've been trying to find what size the holes in the plate is. Where the switches sit, that is. From the pictures that I have seen that they are not perfect squares. Anyone knows the dimensions? I'm going to CNC cut the aluminium plate by the way.