Converting an IBM Pingmaster

Wire data and clock to a 1k each to VCC. Don't just share them on one resistor lol. Tested it without a pullup and I don't think it worked much at all. I ended up finding that my pro micro was actually broken so eh

Use pullups because the cable is really long
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Unread post05 Sep 2017, 00:43

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- The Professional Ideas man
I hope this is the case with my Pro Micro as well. I double-checked everything, including pull-ups, but no life from the board. I ordered a couple of new pro micros, so we'll see.
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Unread post02 Oct 2017, 00:11

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just_add_coffee wrote:Image

You are all more than welcome to call me an idiot for this (after the weekend I had, it'll barely register), but I need to ask:

HOW are the transparent top key caps separated from the bottom keycaps? I tried to do it this weekend on my Pingmaster, so I could put small squares of paper with legends, like it was done in the quoted picture, but could not do it (and it's not like I can't separate the keycaps from the key stems on my Model M keyboards). I had to stop trying, as I became afraid of damaging either part of the few keycaps I had intended to fill out.

It SHOULD be easy to do it, but I can't figure out how?!
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Unread post02 Oct 2017, 17:48

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depletedvespene wrote:HOW are the transparent top key caps separated from the bottom keycaps?

You are definitely not an idiot. Or we both are. :lol:

If you got one of the NIB boards, there should've been a weird-looking metal keycap puller in there. With the caps still on the stems, slide the puller so that the notches are under the left and right sides of the cap. Then jiggle left and right while pulling up. Definitely seems to be a technique to it!

I've got a couple of extra of those pullers. Let me know if you need one. Or you might be able to make something. The key is that the left and right sides of the cap need to be pulled outward from the center while lifting up.
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Unread post03 Oct 2017, 03:50

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Hi, someone did use the standard Soarer HEX?, because i already have one converter i made for my model f xt and personally i will buy one pingmaster if the only thing i need to do is a db9 to dim5 adapter, and i dont want to buy another thimsy just for the pingmaster. (sorry for my English)
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Unread post29 Nov 2017, 01:53

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It won't work with Soarer's (either converter or controller). It works with hasu's 4704 converter.
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Unread post01 Dec 2017, 17:28

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What he said^
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Unread post02 Dec 2017, 01:07

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alh84001 wrote:It won't work with Soarer's (either converter or controller). It works with hasu's 4704 converter.

Thanks, i will think on buy one either way, i really am tempted
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Unread post05 Dec 2017, 18:09

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arturor1990 wrote:
alh84001 wrote:It won't work with Soarer's (either converter or controller). It works with hasu's 4704 converter.

Thanks, i will think on buy one either way, i really am tempted

It is cheapest directly from his online store, I think.
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Unread post05 Dec 2017, 18:11

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elecplus wrote:
arturor1990 wrote:
alh84001 wrote:It won't work with Soarer's (either converter or controller). It works with hasu's 4704 converter.

Thanks, i will think on buy one either way, i really am tempted

It is cheapest directly from his online store, I think.

Even though it is cheaper to build it yourself I recommend giving hasu a thumbs up for his hard work by buying it :)

Love his converter series. Still waiting on NKRO 6113442 though lol
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Unread post06 Dec 2017, 07:28

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Wingklip wrote:Even though it is cheaper to build it yourself I recommend giving hasu a thumbs up for his hard work by buying it :)

Love his converter series. Still waiting on NKRO 6113442 though lol


wait there is a pre built controller for the pingmaster i can just buy !!! Linky Linky
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Unread post06 Dec 2017, 09:54

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You... seriously don't know about hasu's TMK adapter?
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Unread post06 Dec 2017, 21:03

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yes , but i did not know there was one for the DB 9 connector .
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ok i got one , and i am just messing arround with the layout.

Its a bit of a pain i have to flash the firmware to do this i much prefer the tipro sollution where i can reprogram a key on the fly whenever i want to, anway.

Not all scancodes are listed in the layout editor , or i could not find them. Is there any way to just tell the layout editor what scancode i want to send rarther than having to chose it from the dropdown?
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Unread post30 Jan 2018, 19:44

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I just did this last week :) What I did instead was convert the serial output to USB with a pro micro(I used TMK). I put the pro-micro inside the serial connector, and kept the original cord. Never needed to even open it up.
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Unread post01 Feb 2018, 00:07

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I've just spent a *lot* of time trying to get this to work. As it turns out on my cheap Chinese arduino micro clone (which is otherwise great, BTW, since it fits inside a DB9 plug) the *only* pin configuration that works (and yes, I know you have to change the values in config.h if you want to use different pins) is CLOCK on PD1 and DATA on PD0. Everything else produces either no input at all from the keyboard (converter boots up fine, though and speaker beeps) or error messages.
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Unread post16 Feb 2018, 22:10

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Glad you got it working. I am sure your troubleshooting will help others with similar problems in the future. I used those pins(which are the default) anyway, so I never had to address those problems.
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Hasu just replied to my bug report on github - apparently if you want to use different pins you have to change the interrupts at the bottom of config.h as well. If I can find out how exactly (i.e. which values for which pins) I might set up a pull request with updated documentation.
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Unread post17 Feb 2018, 13:34

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Ok, I've read up on this and (assuming I understood everything correctly) it's not really that complicated. Each board pre-defines external interrupts for a number of (but not all) pins. Hasu's converter uses the interrupt on the pin the CLOCK signal is connected to to detect the rising edge of the signal. So, in order to use a different pin you have to find a pinout for the board you are using and determine which interrupt is associated with the pin you want to use for CLOCK. Then edit config.h and in the last block of code change INT1, ISC11, ISC10, INTF1 and INT1_VEC to correspond to your interrupt number. More info here:
http://medesign.seas.upenn.edu/index.php/Guides/MaEvArM-pcint

It seems my attempts to use D11 for CLOCK were doomed from the start ;).
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ok, I've been reading this thread, and want to make sure I have my steps in order.

# generated a hex file from the TMK layout editor:
## https://goo.gl/QUmRov
# load this onto the teensy w/ the teensy loader (have a plain teensy 2.0)
# wire the teensy into the brown connector as per red's images on page 2: resources/image/38997
# ....?
# profit?

thanks everyone for all the time and resources you've all put into this. I'm rubbish at hardware hacking, so apologies for my simplistic understanding here.

edit: formatting, and for context, I have the 6341739 Chinese model.
tobydeemer

Unread post19 Apr 2018, 14:26

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tobydeemer wrote:ok, I've been reading this thread, and want to make sure I have my steps in order.

# generated a hex file from the TMK layout editor:
## https://goo.gl/QUmRov
# load this onto the teensy w/ the teensy loader (have a plain teensy 2.0)
# wire the teensy into the brown connector as per red's images on page 2: resources/image/38997
# ....?
# profit?

thanks everyone for all the time and resources you've all put into this. I'm rubbish at hardware hacking, so apologies for my simplistic understanding here.

edit: formatting, and for context, I have the 6341739 Chinese model.


update: yes, it's that simple. I am typing on it right now, and it's freakin' awesome.

thanks again to everyone who's worked on this - Hasu for the code, red and coffee for the easy to follow tutorial steps. this board was totally worth the effort, and for 35$ shipped? freaking steal. (I had a teensy laying around, so...)

woo.
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