FSSK v1.00 - Installation & Users Manual

I will post here the installation and users manual for the FSSK v1.00

DSCF6521_01.jpg


Attached you can find the source files:

FSSK v1.00.zip
(3.9 MiB) Downloaded 125 times


Here you can find a configuration file with no keys set-up that could be used for testing:
model_f_blank.l.bz2
(113 Bytes) Downloaded 59 times


This is the file that I am using with the connector in the middle. Cables are swapped in pairs.
fssk.l.bz2
(423 Bytes) Downloaded 50 times


And this is the file that lot_lizard created with an straight cable:
fsskUnswappedPairs.zip
(485 Bytes) Downloaded 54 times


Attached the source files for the FEXT. Do not hesitate to as questions.
Attachments
FEXT_v1.0b.zip
(3.39 MiB) Downloaded 76 times
Last edited by idollar on 26 May 2016, 21:36, edited 7 times in total.
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The PCB

DSCF6513-no address.jpg


DSCF6514.jpg


DSCF6515-no address.jpg


DSCF6517.jpg


DSCF6518.jpg


DSCF6521_01.jpg


DSCF6522.jpg


DSCF6519.jpg
Last edited by idollar on 17 Apr 2016, 12:27, edited 1 time in total.
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Soldering the PCB

The cable that I have used is an IDE cable
DSCF6523.jpg


The individual cables shall be separated in the ribbon
DSCF6524.jpg


The following picture shows the length of the cable
DSCF6525.jpg


The distribution of cables in the PCB pads is as follows:
DSCF6527_01.jpg


Therefore the ribbon cable shall be divided as follows.
Notice above that there are 10 cables to many in the ribbon. I have left then in the middle grounded.
DSCF6528.jpg


I have passed the cables through the PCB, as shown in the following.
DSCF6529.jpg


I start soldering the extremes, on the PCB TOP. This fixes the ribbon to the PCB while soldering.
DSCF6530.jpg


DSCF6531.jpg


Following the result of the cable + PCB. Note that I have left the middle open. To make sure that I do not miss any cable, I start from the left to the middle. I then did right to the middle. Note also that I have soldered the the two extreme cables to the middle GND.
DSCF6532.jpg


I join the left cables in the middle.
DSCF6533.jpg


And isolate them:
DSCF6534.jpg


There is no picture, but these middle cables are also soldered to the middle GNDs.

I scratched each sensing pad to test continuity. There is no need to do that. I did it just to test the design.

DSCF6536.jpg
Last edited by idollar on 17 Apr 2016, 12:44, edited 4 times in total.
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Curving PCB

The PCB shall be curved to match the curved shape of the SSK.
To do it, I applied heat with a powerful hairdryer, curve it more than what is actually needed and let it cold down.

Here are pictures of the process.

This is what is needed. PCB, some tape, paper (or whatever), and the hairdryer.
DSCF6537.jpg


I heated the PCB first
DSCF6538.jpg


I forced the PCB curved (once heated) and hold it with tape:
DSCF6539.jpg


I heated the PCB again, with the tape in.
DSCF6540.jpg


And let it cold down while preparing for the next step:
DSCF6541.jpg
Last edited by idollar on 17 Apr 2016, 12:54, edited 1 time in total.
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Opening the SSK and finalising the PCB curving

This is the initial setup and tools:

DSCF6541.jpg


Standard process:

DSCF6542.jpg


DSCF6543.jpg


My key-puller is a cappuccino spoon, which I use to puss the keys from below.

DSCF6544.jpg


My SSK was already screw-modded. So I simply open it:

DSCF6545.jpg


DSCF6546.jpg


DSCF6547.jpg


Now is time to check the PCB curving process:

DSCF6548.jpg


DSCF6549.jpg


Just perfect :-)

DSCF6550.jpg


DSCF6551.jpg
Last edited by idollar on 17 Apr 2016, 13:13, edited 1 time in total.
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Making sure that the flippers fit

The version of the SSK, requires some modding of the plate to allow the bigger F flippers to fit.

First we keep the original M flippers save in their bag.

DSCF6552.jpg


This is where the problem starts. The channels present in the modern Ms to let liquids to go through and some other bits are fine with smaller flippers, but too big for the larger Ms.

DSCF6553.jpg


DSCF6554.jpg


The smaller parts are easy to remove:

DSCF6555.jpg


With the same cutter and lot of care, one can remove the channel:
DSCF6556.jpg


The final work is done with sand paper:

DSCF6557.jpg


DSCF6559.jpg


DSCF6560.jpg


DSCF6562_01.jpg


This solves the issue:

DSCF6563.jpg
Last edited by idollar on 17 Apr 2016, 13:45, edited 2 times in total.
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Installing the PCB

Get the flippers in their place:

DSCF6564.jpg


THIS IS SHALL NOT BE DONE
With the FSSK 0001 I used original the rubber mat between the flippers and the PCB.
I tried to do the same thing with the FSSK 0003 in this post. It took me some 10/15 attempts to realise that the mat does not allows the flippers to flip properly. In my particular case, the spacebar flipper would not flip completely, leading to a lower threshold. The solution was as simple as removing the mat ... after 5 hours of test/error ...

I repeat: do not use the rubber mat. This picture is only here to explain the mistake that I made


DSCF6566.jpg


Install the PCB:

DSCF6567.jpg


Isolate the metal plate with tape and put it in place:

DSCF6581.jpg


DSCF6568.jpg


Before installing all the screws, I suggest to do just these and test the result.
Believe me, if you have to troubleshoot the board, you will hate those screws.

DSCF6570.jpg


And place the caps back:

DSCF6572.jpg
Last edited by idollar on 20 Apr 2016, 01:16, edited 1 time in total.
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Soldering the controller

the pictures are self explanatory (I hope):

DSCF6591.jpg


DSCF6592.jpg


DSCF6593.jpg


DSCF6594.jpg


Soldering on the top layer may be difficult because of the proximity of the components.
I recommend to use the bottom side only:

DSCF6595.jpg


DSCF6596.jpg


DSCF6598.jpg


DSCF6599.jpg


Start with the extremes to fix the ribbon cable:

DSCF6600.jpg


DSCF6601.jpg


DSCF6602.jpg
Last edited by idollar on 20 Apr 2016, 01:23, edited 1 time in total.
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Soldering the controller

This is the technique that I used to ensure proper grounding.

Find a screw that fits in diameter and length. I honestly do not know the size that I have used. I used the one that fit better from my pool of spares.

Using a FLEXIBLE DOUBLE cable, I twisted it around the screw.

DSCF6603.jpg


And add Tin to it. This makes it rigid.

DSCF6604.jpg


DSCF6605.jpg


Sorry, the pictures are not good :-(

And do the same with the other side.

DSCF6606.jpg


DSCF6607.jpg


Simple, isn't it ?
Last edited by idollar on 20 Apr 2016, 23:28, edited 1 time in total.
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Place holder 20 and last - Read this thread for more information - I will be updating it with lot of pictures of the complete process.
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Amazing stuff, I$. Thank you for the tutorials, your idea and all the work you did on this project.

After postponing it for so long, it was finally FSSK building time today :D

DSC_0905.jpg


Following your advice from the other thread, I did not use the mat.

I have the IDE ribbon cable ready, all it needs now is a controller.
I wonder, do you think I can solder the cable to the holes without taking it all apart again? Maybe by bending the top part after heating it again so that I can reach both sides of the holes?

Anyway, I did a test run without a controller and it clicks 99% fine. There is one key that feels slightly rough/scratchy and one key that is a bit harder to press than the others, wobbly. I believe this is due to there being very few screws under that position to hold the flipper in place (it's the L key, turn it around and you will barely find any screws there).
Or maybe it is due to this beat up and glued barrel frame as you can see, it's just not as solid as a new one.

The feeling is amazing. Exactly what membrane IBM keyboards are lacking: Smoother, lighter keys and a sharper click.

But the sound... Oh my :shock:
That thing is beyond loud. Just like the SSK phosphorglow posted two years ago (the video is gone now) this little SSK has no rubber mat to dampen its sounds. And the flippers are larger and they snap right on the plastic of the PCB, instead of three sheets of membranes.

I'm not sure if I, my girl or my neighbors could ever get used to that sound. It's intense.

I do hope that I did everything right by leaving out the rubber mat? And not using any tape or other to isolate the PCB or the metal plate? As in the other thread, you said no isolation is needed...?
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Unread post19 Apr 2016, 18:16

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shreebles wrote:Amazing stuff, I$. Thank you for the tutorials, your idea and all the work you did on this project.

thanks to you guys. I am the one that is having fun doing it :-)


After postponing it for so long, it was finally FSSK building time today :D

DSC_0905.jpg



Good !!



I wonder, do you think I can solder the cable to the holes without taking it all apart again? Maybe by bending the top part after heating it again so that I can reach both sides of the holes?


You can definitely do it. It is not a must to use the technique that I have used. You can always try to solder them from the top, without going though the pad-hole. This is what XMIT tried.

Anyway, I did a test run without a controller and it clicks 99% fine. There is one key that feels slightly rough/scratchy and one key that is a bit harder to press than the others, wobbly. I believe this is due to there being very few screws under that position to hold the flipper in place (it's the L key, turn it around and you will barely find any screws there).
Or maybe it is due to this beat up and glued barrel frame as you can see, it's just not as solid as a new one.

The feeling is amazing. Exactly what membrane IBM keyboards are lacking: Smoother, lighter keys and a sharper click.

But the sound... Oh my :shock:
That thing is beyond loud. Just like the SSK phosphorglow posted two years ago (the video is gone now) this little SSK has no rubber mat to dampen its sounds. And the flippers are larger and they snap right on the plastic of the PCB, instead of three sheets of membranes.

It is lower with the mat on. Try it. It may work as it did with the FSSK 0001.
I am also thinking of using a different material, glued to the PCB, that wouldn't block the flipping of the flippers.
I will test it.

BTW: I have more pictures to post, including my technique to solder the ribbon to the controller
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Unread post19 Apr 2016, 18:38

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Awesome! Thanks for the quick reply.
I will take it apart soon and try it with the mat. Since it is a prototype PCB it might work with the mat, as yours did.

Also I hope that it will reduce the distance between the PCB and the flippers which should tighten the whole assembly somewhat. I might reinforce the glue again as I suspect it might not be solid enough.

Since I will take it apart anyway, I will take a closer look at soldering through-hole vs. on-top.
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Unread post19 Apr 2016, 19:29

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I tried both ways with the FSSK 0001 and it worked
I think that it has to do with the barrel plate actually and how the mat fits it. If it is somehow folded, even a little bit, it would not let the flippers go.

I am thinking that perhaps one could add something in the middle that glued to the PCB and used the mat under the PCB, between the PCB and the metal plate.
In this way the flippers would not hit the PCB directly (less noise) and the PCB would not transmit the pressure to the metal plate (more noise). I can test all these combinations and record the result.

BTW ... the sound difference with and without mate was already recorded and posted ....
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Unread post19 Apr 2016, 21:10

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If I remember correctly this are the flippers hitting the PCB directly.
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Unread post19 Apr 2016, 21:15

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You could maybe try the replacement "blanket" from Unicomp. I personally prefer it to the rubber mat, and have it in a couple SSKs (keeping the original for posterity). It is white and thinner, or gives that impression when handling. It is a "one size fits all" for the M, so you would just trim off the ten key portion. I was planning on using for my FSSK builds from the start

EDIT:. It is a mystery to find on the site btw. This is from my notes:
http://www.pckeyboard.com/page/product/MEM
"Blanket part number 1403033" in the part number field
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Unread post20 Apr 2016, 00:03

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I was thinking of trying the same thin foam that I used with the F77: workshop-f7/ibm-107-472x-41-53951-lot-of-pictures-t10311.html#p220169

It is thin, will not get off the PCB and will mute the flippers.
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Unread post20 Apr 2016, 00:55

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I have posted some more pictures ...
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Unread post20 Apr 2016, 01:24

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The documentation in this manual is top notch! Very nice photos i$! Speaking of the photos though, they are very dim on my ipad, but look nice when I'm on my mac. Weird.
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Unread post20 Apr 2016, 09:06

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