I just took the caps off of the model M I got from Ascaii and found this little flag or whatever. Can anybody tell me what it is? The bold-mod article didn't contain anything on disassembling.

Ground, to prevent you from electrocution and instant death while using a Model M. Only in keyboards from IBM UK, EU regulations and all.

webwit wrote:Ground, to prevent you from electrocution and instant death while using a Model M. Only in keyboards from IBM UK, EU regulations and all.

Indeed. I think it's only found on newer model Ms. My UK-manufactured 1396790 (blue label) from 1995 has it while my 1390131 from 1986 (square silver label, also UK-manufactured) doesn't.
BTW, I highly doubt that this ground wire has any effect at all.

Okay, next step. Where do I find a damn screwdriver that will open this thing? *sigh*

You need a 5.5mm nut driver, which should be plentiful at your tool/model shop or regular electronics supplier of choice.

Alternative method:

Step 1: Get a pen, like the Bic pen in the picture.
Step 2: Open the rear end.
Step 3: Burn the rear end. Use a lighter or something. Don't burn it too much. The plastic needs to get weak.
Step 4: Put the rear end in one of a Model M's screw holes so it fits over one of the bolts. Press firmly.
Step 5: Wait until the plastic gets firm again.
Step 6: Start to unscrew the bolt.
Step 7: Break the pen, fail to open the Model M.
Step 8: Buy a 5.5mm nut driver.

Everyone can do it.

This trick works better for stealing bicycles with Kryptonite Locks:

http://www.engadget.com/2004/09/14/kryp ... a-bic-pen/

I'm sure this never happens in advanced cultures like the EU but it is a recurring problem in the crime ridden USA.

Icarium wrote:Okay, next step. Where do I find a damn screwdriver that will open this thing? *sigh*

5.5 mm or 7/32 inch. Actually, they are not that common in metric Europe. I see you're living in Germany; you could order one at Conrad:
http://www.conrad.de/ce/de/product/826193/AUSSEN-SECHSK55X60-ELEKTR-STECKSCHL

I've ordered one from an autoshop in France and the nut driver is too large for the ssk hole.
For the Model m it fits only if you push strongly...

That's a good point - make sure the outer diameter of the head fits in the hole. You can get slimline ones. I suspect ones made for work on vehicles are designed to be rather more heavy duty...

webwit wrote:Alternative method:
Step 1: Get a pen, like the Bic pen in the picture.
Step 2: Open the rear end.
Step 3: Burn the rear end. Use a lighter or something. Don't burn it too much. The plastic needs to get weak.
Step 4: Put the rear end in one of a Model M's screw holes so it fits over one of the bolts. Press firmly.
Step 5: Wait until the plastic gets firm again.
Step 6: Start to unscrew the bolt.
Step 7: Break the pen, fail to open the Model M.
Step 8: Buy a 5.5mm nut driver.
]

Damn you, you crazy dutch prophet!

1. It actually works. I was absolutely amazed.



2. As you predicted the damn pen broke exactly after 3 of the 4 screws.
BUT I eventually managed to do it again after cutting of pieces of the pen several times.



(Also note the free paperclip, thanks Ascaii!)

Pen: Giveaway
Lighter: 1 Euro
Poisoning myself with plastic fumes next to an open window at -10 degrees celsius because the dutch keyboard guru says so: PRICELESS

In other news, this is not the first pen that had to die for this model M:

Gilgam wrote:I've ordered one from an autoshop in France and the nut driver is too large for the ssk hole.
For the Model m it fits only if you push strongly...

Here is another one:

Icarium wrote:

pen3.JPG

^^^This does not look like a pen. More like some leftover from webwit's foot-pedals.

edit: Now I see the the pen! Good idea!

Aaaarrrrggghhhhhhh.

I finally opened up one of my model M's by brute force because I could not find a 5,5 bolt driver..... I bought 2 bolt screwdrivers via the internet : 5 and 6 mm just to be sure I could open it, but I finally found out it's a 5,5 : these are very uncommon in the EU.
Should have checked the forum or asked in a post. I ultimately opened it up by drilling the holes since I am going to use it as a key donator board anyway.

Still got a question : how can I properly remove the metal plate from the assembly? Drill the holes?Any ideas? My hope is that if I remove the metal plate underneath the PCB I only have to cut some plastic in order to get what I want, but if the switch is attached to the metal plate in some way I might be in for a nasty surprise ( Waisted a perfectly functioning model M )

EDIT : I found some useful material here : http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?title=Island:15277 . The guy drilled all the little holes apparently, I can see the springs have some kind of T-shaped plasticy thingy attached to it which is dangling loose. So I guess I have to somehow add something as a base to the switch in order for it to properly function. I guess nobody ever tried this before How to best cut the metal?

[excuse me for hijacking this thread, but the question in the OP was already answered.....]

Regards.

Search for "5,5mm dopsleutel" and there are plenty. To remove the plate, shave off the rivets. After this you need a bolt mod to put the keyboard together again.

Ah,

Time to chisel : http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?title=Island:6615

Are you trying to add BS to a switch-try-board?

Icarium wrote:Are you trying to add BS to a switch-try-board?

Just to add it to a switch try bag ( or maybe create a 4 cluster like ceesa is doing with his gaming switch try boards )

Regards.

Kurrk wrote:

webwit wrote:Ground, to prevent you from electrocution and instant death while using a Model M. Only in keyboards from IBM UK, EU regulations and all.

Indeed. I think it's only found on newer model Ms. My UK-manufactured 1396790 (blue label) from 1995 has it while my 1390131 from 1986 (square silver label, also UK-manufactured) doesn't.
BTW, I highly doubt that this ground wire has any effect at all.

The "flag" is a clip which attaches the static drain wire to ground. Static electricity can and does build up when skin is rubbed against plastic repeatedly (the thumb hitting the space bar). You think they put it there just for fun? Perhaps you'd enjoy frying your semiconductors or getting a static shock instead. ^_^

I'm quite surprised noone else realised what this is for...

Too obvious. Your troll on the marketplace was better.

webwit wrote:Too obvious. Your troll on the marketplace was better.

This is not a troll, this is me getting involved. Can't win on this forum

Static build up and needs to drain to earth: show me what part of that information is trolling.

Read part 1 of this article: http://www.osha.gov/dts/hib/hib_data/hib19880930.html

Then this: http://www.resistoflex.com/staticdischarge.htm

And this: http://www.explainthatstuff.com/howanti ... swork.html


You may be the keyboard experts, but even experts have gaps in their knowledge. It doesn't take much thinking to realise that a grounded copper conductor will drain away a surface charge of static electricity.


PS: The melting of a biro end and pressing it over the screw head also works *really* well for Nintendo SNES consoles etc... if you get it just right ---> http://www.flickr.com/photos/22008695@N ... 6112546735

5.5mm Nut drivers, in the UK. Postage is £3/£4ish.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/6-piece-precisi ... set-223457

I use it on my M's, M13 and F.

I accept thanks in the form of blank BS keys...

Icarium wrote:

webwit wrote:Alternative method:
Step 1: Get a pen, like the Bic pen in the picture.
Step 2: Open the rear end.
Step 3: Burn the rear end. Use a lighter or something. Don't burn it too much. The plastic needs to get weak.
Step 4: Put the rear end in one of a Model M's screw holes so it fits over one of the bolts. Press firmly.
Step 5: Wait until the plastic gets firm again.
Step 6: Start to unscrew the bolt.

Damn you, you crazy dutch prophet!

1. It actually works. I was absolutely amazed.

This is pure gold. Thanks guys