Retrobright 2.0 - No more UV light!

Inspired by a video by the 8bitGuy where he is trying different approaches to "retrobrightening", I have picked up on the temperature controlled approach.

Here's the inspirational video:


First thing I noticed was that this dude is using insane temperatures on the ABS. His attempts were made at ~70°C which is far too hot for ABS plastic and comes with a high probability of bleaching out the ABS. When talking to our Mike about my first results, he pointed out he was getting terrible bleaching on his caps using the same temperatures I was working with AND he also pointed out that 8bitGuy has clearly bleached out his temperature brightened cap as well.

Image

This was not a result I was looking for and I think it is very important when working with this method to differentiate between BRIGHTENING and BLEACHING caps.
Brightening is what you want to so - reverts the yellowing, effectively brightening the cap up.

Bleaching is what you want to avoid and means the temperature changes the original color of the ABS plastic.

What I found really really hard to determine - especially with these more exotic beige/grey Cherry caps - was the original color. When is then yellowing gone and when did I actually bleach a cap. Tried my best by looking at the bottoms of caps and comparing them back and forth trying to find out when a cap is really brightened and not bleached ...

Keep in mind this is all a work in progress and it is generally a SLOW chemical process but the first results I have gotten were breathtaking and I am too excited to keep them back any longer.

My first approach was using my ultrasonic cleaner. It comes with a heating function that will heat up the whole tank to a desired temperature. Default temperature is 50°C so that's what I started off with. So pre-heating a container with water to the desired temperature is step one.

Step two was taking a good old ziploc bag, putting all the caps in and filling it with enough hydrogen peroxide so they comfortably float in there. Squeeze as much of the air out of there as you can.

Step three is to submerge the whole bag in the heated water and let it sit there for a couple of hours. It doesn't hurt to keep checking on your bag because gas will build up in your ziploc bag and might make it float. The process takes time, especially getting the last bit of yellowing out requires a lot of patience.

My first experiment was caps from a set of caps that I thought were beyond saving. Got them from one of these Cherry OEM G80s with Nixdorf branding and the F1 - F30 keys:
Spoiler:
Before with reference:
Image
During:
Image
After with reference:
Image


So after this I decided to brighten the rest of the gang, hope this picture captures the BROWNING of these caps:
Spoiler:
Before in the bag with the peroxide:
Image
During in the ultrasonic cleaner:
Image
Upgraded to a sous vide cooker:
Image
Seems like the ultrasonic cleaner wasn't REALLY good at holding the temperature and caps like the Control key got a little bleaching:
Image
Then realized I forgot a single key:
Image
After spending roughly 6h in the peroxide at 50°C sharp:
Image

Please note that I consider the SHORT SHIFT key slightly bleached!


Several lessons learned here already. Temperature is VERY important and should REALLY never be higher than absolutely necessary. It felt like the heating feature of the ultrasonic cleaner was a little too rough and gave me bleaching on some of the caps. The sous-vide thing on the other hand is made to maintain a temperature with 0.2°C deviation. When using the sous vide thing (110€ on amazon.de - feels like a ripoff) at 50°C sharp it feels like I wasn't getting any bleaching and discolorations while the brightening was working well but took a long time.

This motivated me to actually go back and revisit some other caps that I previously brightened with the UV method and never really got as bright was I wanted them to be. When using the UV method you sometimes reach a point where there are "no more bubbles" and it feels like the process has stalled. This could be due to depleted peroxide or the unability to brighten the caps any further. Or the UV light wasn't reaching the sides of the caps as well thus bleaching out to tops while the sides were still in need of some brightening.

This was no longer a concern since this temperature method will reach all parts of the caps evenly - I love it! So let's take a look at those caps. They came from another Cherry G80 OEM board - this time for Commodore.

Spoiler:
Before pictures with references. The "light" mods looks kinda bright right? And the "dark" alphas look nice and grey eh?
Image

Inside the water bath - special gues the F10 cap from the previous set!
Image

Holy fuck did I not see that coming. Look at how YELLOW the reference (TAB) mod looks now and how much darker the reference (Num0) alphas look:
Image


Already got another set of these keycaps lined up and in the water. Here's some pics from the current process:
Spoiler:
Before (Space bar will be the reference):
Image
Initially in the water with the peroxide:
Image
After a few hours at 50°C:
Image
Stop farting you ass queefers:
Image


Once I got these sets all to a condition I am happy with I will be doing EXTENSIVE experimenting with this sous vide robot cock exposing all kinds of ABS caps to various temperatures for an extended time. Like one hour at 40°C, again at 45°C, 50°C, 55°C and so on.

Then probably take some nasty HAD shit and put them in peroxide for a couple of hours ... maybe 3-4? ... at various temperatures and compare the results. My assumption is this reaction is temperature dependant - duuuh - and higher temperatures speed up the reaction greatly. They will obviously also fuck up your caps greatly so it would be really neat to find the lowest temperature at which this effect is reliably happening - even if it takes two days to brighten a set of precious caps. Another factor might be the level of depletion of the peroxide. Certainly at some point the peroxide will be used up. Can we use the same peroxide for more brightening at higher temperatures or is peroxide that won't react at 40°C depleted even when cooking it ;) Just got a shipment of another 20l of that stuff. Hope the BND is smart enough to find this thread of mine and understand I am not one of these YALLALALALAAL-poof dudes.

Oh and another side note. Don't get that shit on your hands. I stopped giving fucks and got so much on my hands, they're super gentle now ;)
Wodan
User avatar
ISO Advocate

Unread post14 Jun 2018, 18:50

User avatar
X
Wodan
ISO Advocate
 
Posts: 3141
Joined: 23 Nov 2015, 20:43
Location: ISO-DE
Main keyboard: Random
Main mouse: Logitech G502
Favorite switch: ALL OF THEM
DT Pro Member: -
 
Incredibly relevant to my needs. Thanks Wodan!
snacksthecat
User avatar
✶✶✶✶

Unread post14 Jun 2018, 18:52

User avatar
X
snacksthecat
✶✶✶✶
 
Posts: 246
Joined: 04 Jun 2017, 15:47
Location: USA
Main keyboard: IBM SSK (typing) / Custom 75% Zealio (gaming)
Main mouse: BenQ ZOWIE EC1-A
Favorite switch: Dampened Cream Alps (minus dampeners)
DT Pro Member: 0205
 
This is so fucking cool. Need to get my hands on a (cheapo) sous-vide!
scottc
User avatar

Unread post14 Jun 2018, 19:37

User avatar
X
scottc
 
Posts: 5609
Joined: 06 Oct 2013, 21:09
Location: Remote locations in Europe
Main keyboard: GH60-HASRO 62g Nixies, HHKB Pro1 HS, Novatouch
Main mouse: Steelseries Rival 300
Favorite switch: Nixdorf 'Soft Touch' MX Black
DT Pro Member: -
 
scottc wrote:This is so fucking cool. Need to get my hands on a (cheapo) sous-vide!

You should get one anyway. I'm not joking; it's the best cooking tool you can have behind a good knife and a cast iron pan. Beautiful steaks, tender brisket, and the juciest chicken you've ever eaten: all of these await you on the other side of that warm water bath.
ScottPaladin
User avatar

Unread post14 Jun 2018, 19:39

User avatar
X
ScottPaladin
 
Posts: 98
Joined: 02 Mar 2018, 21:04
Location: Texas, United States
Main keyboard: Can't pick a favorite
Favorite switch: Fujistu Leaf Spring
DT Pro Member: -
 
Can I also cook the steak in peroxide?
scottc
User avatar

Unread post14 Jun 2018, 19:51

User avatar
X
scottc
 
Posts: 5609
Joined: 06 Oct 2013, 21:09
Location: Remote locations in Europe
Main keyboard: GH60-HASRO 62g Nixies, HHKB Pro1 HS, Novatouch
Main mouse: Steelseries Rival 300
Favorite switch: Nixdorf 'Soft Touch' MX Black
DT Pro Member: -
 
scottc wrote:Can I also cook the steak in peroxide?

Albino ribeyes, here we come!
ScottPaladin
User avatar

Unread post14 Jun 2018, 20:11

User avatar
X
ScottPaladin
 
Posts: 98
Joined: 02 Mar 2018, 21:04
Location: Texas, United States
Main keyboard: Can't pick a favorite
Favorite switch: Fujistu Leaf Spring
DT Pro Member: -
 
Revolutionary!

This seems more convenient than making batches of retrobright the old way, and also more consistent!
ZedTheMan

Unread post14 Jun 2018, 22:22

X
ZedTheMan
 
Posts: 7
Joined: 11 Jun 2018, 08:58
Location: Nebraska
Main keyboard: IBM Model F122 Battleship
Main mouse: Logitech G430
Favorite switch: SKCC Green/Fujitsu Leaf Spring/Cap.Buckling Spring
DT Pro Member: -
 
Hi Wodan,

I suggest You try glass marmalade cans as containers instead of ziplock bags with a 1:5 or 1:4 solution of 30% peroxide : water . In my experience pressure has some influence in the process and marmalade cans are gas tight to some extent so the peroxide solution / caps bath will stay at pressure and peroxide will deplete slower.

I think pure 30 or 40 % peroxide is too aggressive for the plastic to deal with, I would go for a lower solution.

I sunlight retrobright my caps with those glass containers and I had good results. It takes 2 or 3 hours under sunlight to get rid of the caps yellowing BUT the result in some cases might not be as even as Your method, obviously.

I did understand that temperature is a factor in the process, since as temperature rises in the glass container the retrobright process accelerates and sometimes I loose control of it (i.e. in a few minutes they go bleach).

Those glass cans are meant to be used at 100 deg Celsius so no worries of breaking them with high temperature. Do remember to install the required rubber gasket.

Image

Luca
lucar

Unread post15 Jun 2018, 07:29

X
lucar
 
Posts: 23
Joined: 08 Jun 2017, 09:06
Location: Italy
Main keyboard: Logitech K740
Main mouse: Logitech M235
Favorite switch: Alps Blue
DT Pro Member: -
 
just a quick note. sun light is not a good UV source for our purpose. Buy a good UV lamp, the result is way better than direct sunlight.

regarding the boiling thing, I'd just like to know if re-yellowing is as fast as with UV or if it's a more permanent solution.
matt3o
User avatar
-[°_°]-

Unread post15 Jun 2018, 09:45

User avatar
X
matt3o
-[°_°]-
 
Posts: 8497
Joined: 03 Sep 2012, 15:14
Location: Italy
Main keyboard: WhiteFox
Main mouse: Anywhere MX
Favorite switch: Anything, really
DT Pro Member: 0030
 
 
This signature intentionally left blank...
matt3o wrote:just a quick note. sun light is not a good UV source for our purpose. Buy a good UV lamp, the result is way better than direct sunlight.

regarding the boiling thing, I'd just like to know if re-yellowing is as fast as with UV or if it's a more permanent solution.

For my UV brightening, I was using a setup with two "Desert Sun" UV bulbs

Has there been any solid investigation into the re-brightening?
I could just take a well processed batch, take some pics with a few PBT caps for reference, store them in the dark for a year and take pics again.
Wodan
User avatar
ISO Advocate

Unread post15 Jun 2018, 10:03

User avatar
X
Wodan
ISO Advocate
 
Posts: 3141
Joined: 23 Nov 2015, 20:43
Location: ISO-DE
Main keyboard: Random
Main mouse: Logitech G502
Favorite switch: ALL OF THEM
DT Pro Member: -
 
matt3o wrote:just a quick note. sun light is not a good UV source for our purpose. Buy a good UV lamp, the result is way better than direct sunlight.


Hello Matteo,

I did try with UV lamps but either my lamps were not strong enought or the process is too slow , I gave up in favor of exposing the glass jar to direct sunlight in may/june starting from 10:00 till 13:00 local time (I live in central Italy), in bright sunny days. It takes 2 or 3 hours to have good results on caps and cases. I do full peroxide immersion for both.

As for re-jellowing, I'm maybe too new to the hobby to tell if my year old retrobrighted keyboards will ever jellow again.

With no doubts , if Wodans method works, it will be the best discovery after the wheel.

:)

Luca
lucar

Unread post15 Jun 2018, 11:20

X
lucar
 
Posts: 23
Joined: 08 Jun 2017, 09:06
Location: Italy
Main keyboard: Logitech K740
Main mouse: Logitech M235
Favorite switch: Alps Blue
DT Pro Member: -
 
lucar wrote:I did try with UV lamps but either my lamps were not strong enought or the process is too slow , I gave up in favor of exposing the glass jar to direct sunlight in may/june starting from 10:00 till 13:00 local time (I live in central Italy), in bright sunny days. It takes 2 or 3 hours to have good results on caps and cases. I do full peroxide immersion for both.

What kind of UV lights? Cheaper black-lights only release a little UV-a. I own a UV bulb that covers most of the UV spectrum and it makes florescent minerals pop (that is why I got it). This is an untested theory though. My second theory is that it could just be the heat of the bulb because Incandescent black-lights get really hot, like a 40w bulb produces 38w of heat.
codemonkeymike

Unread post15 Jun 2018, 12:10

X
codemonkeymike
 
Posts: 763
Joined: 29 Nov 2015, 21:54
Location: New Jersey
Main keyboard: Ergodox
Main mouse: Razer Naga
Favorite switch: Box Jade
DT Pro Member: -
 
yeah it depends on the UV lamp you have. certainly heat plays a role in it, but it's the UV that does the job. Just get better UV lamps :)
matt3o
User avatar
-[°_°]-

Unread post15 Jun 2018, 13:46

User avatar
X
matt3o
-[°_°]-
 
Posts: 8497
Joined: 03 Sep 2012, 15:14
Location: Italy
Main keyboard: WhiteFox
Main mouse: Anywhere MX
Favorite switch: Anything, really
DT Pro Member: 0030
 
 
This signature intentionally left blank...
Hey! I can't wait to try this on some caps. I suppose the temperature is more important than the concentration of peroxide in this, which concentration did you use?
pngu
User avatar

Unread post10 Jul 2018, 12:49

User avatar
X
pngu
 
Posts: 6
Joined: 08 Mar 2018, 22:16
Location: DE
DT Pro Member: -
 
Be very very careful with UV lamps , certain types of UV can damage your eyes and skin in a few mins of exposure
andrewjoy

Unread post10 Jul 2018, 14:18

X
andrewjoy
 
Posts: 4992
Joined: 11 Apr 2012, 16:27
Location: UK
Main keyboard: Filco ZERO green alps, Model F 122 Terminal
Main mouse: Ducky Secret / Roller Mouse Pro 1
Favorite switch: MX Mount Topre / Model F Buckling
DT Pro Member: 0167
 
pngu wrote:Hey! I can't wait to try this on some caps. I suppose the temperature is more important than the concentration of peroxide in this, which concentration did you use?

I would assume 11/12% from Wodan's post history (which is the same percentage as 8bit guy's "40 volume") - that & 12% seems to be the maximum percentage you can buy in Europe.

Yesterday, I dropped a particularly yellowed key into a 50/50 H2O2 12%/water mix (effectively 6%) & popped it out in the sun for 2 hours which gave great results... unfortunately, I now realise that all my other keycaps need doing :lol
Ascen1ty

Unread post11 Jul 2018, 00:35

X
Ascen1ty
 
Posts: 13
Joined: 19 Apr 2018, 22:17
Location: Hampshire, England
Main keyboard: GH60 chn
Main mouse: Logitech G9
DT Pro Member: -
 
130 VOL (35%) is relatively common and used for bleaching wood. I always used that for retrobright
matt3o
User avatar
-[°_°]-

Unread post14 Jul 2018, 06:55

User avatar
X
matt3o
-[°_°]-
 
Posts: 8497
Joined: 03 Sep 2012, 15:14
Location: Italy
Main keyboard: WhiteFox
Main mouse: Anywhere MX
Favorite switch: Anything, really
DT Pro Member: 0030
 
 
This signature intentionally left blank...
Wodan
User avatar
ISO Advocate

Unread post14 Jul 2018, 08:38

User avatar
X
Wodan
ISO Advocate
 
Posts: 3141
Joined: 23 Nov 2015, 20:43
Location: ISO-DE
Main keyboard: Random
Main mouse: Logitech G502
Favorite switch: ALL OF THEM
DT Pro Member: -
 
Ah, I already ordered 5 liters of the 12% stuff, I figured higher percentages weren't easily obtainable. And sweet Jesus, that 35% stuff is pricy wew.
pngu
User avatar

Unread post14 Jul 2018, 12:20

User avatar
X
pngu
 
Posts: 6
Joined: 08 Mar 2018, 22:16
Location: DE
DT Pro Member: -
 

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 41 guests