deskthority

Agreed with macmakkara.

Please, don't release yet another piece of OEM garbage that nearly all gaming headsets are. I understand you can't compete with the R&D of companies like Sennheiser, Beyerdynamic or AKG, but for the love of <insert preferred deities>, at least rebrand some proven Takstar/Samson/Superlux/… cans, like Kingston has done with the CloudX (or something) headset.

I've filled the survey, but honestly, most of the questions don't even make any sense. For example, the preferred construction. I have open around-ear cans (Sennheiser HD 540 Reference) and the same but closed (Sennheiser HD 250 Linear II) at home, an easy-to-drive closed on-ear pair that I carry around (Sennheiser HD 25-13) and IEMs that help me fall asleep (fake IE80, Sony MH1C). Of course I want different headphones/headsets for different occasions/environments.

In regards to construction, please, use replaceable parts. First, detachable cable: take a look at Fostex T20rp (it has a 3.5mm female connector in one can) or Superlux HD668B. Use ear pads compatible with the rest of the world. It makes modding (altering sound/comfort) and finding replacements (once the original pads become nasty) much easier. It lets people pick their preferred material (and sound isolation). The same thing in case of IEMs. And about the headband cushion: ideally, it should be a replaceable leather strip like on vintage or AKG headphones, or a cushion compatible with the one used on modern Beyerdynamic DT 770/880/990 hps.

I'm no expert in terms of microphones, but look at renowned manufacturers, or modders from the hi-fi community.

No controls on the cable, only a mute switch on the mic/can itself. These things are generally unreliable, and the job is better done by adjustments on a mixer/amp/… or can be done in software (hopefully not at the cost of clipping). Yeah, no internal sound cards. Detachable mic would be neat, because it looks awkward in public, when not used. Also, easy to drive and add a reduction to/from TRRS (but no controls); I'd actually use it with my phone to avoid radiation exposure.

Sound signature is another thing worth consideration. Obviously, no boomy/muddy bass, hopefully not overly bright either…

Yeah, and one more thing. Audio Technica ATH-T500 is currently the go-to recommendation around many forums. It comes with FIVE year warranty.

I don't have a whole lot to add compared to what has already been said, I just wanted to add a +1 to what davkol and macmakkara have said.

I also really support what davkol mentioned about using more industry standard replaceable parts. I use the Beyerdynamic head cushions on my Grado's and HD650's and I love them. Replaceable ear cushions and not super crazy recessed or modified detachable cables is also great.

Detachable mic also.

pyrelink wrote: ↑I don't have a whole lot to add compared to what has already been said, I just wanted to add a +1 to what davkol and macmakkara have said.

I also really support what davkol mentioned about using more industry standard replaceable parts. I use the Beyerdynamic head cushions on my Grado's and HD650's and I love them. Replaceable ear cushions and not super crazy recessed or modified detachable cables is also great.

Detachable mic also.

Just don't make the jack to which the detachable cable attaches a weak point that fails even sooner than a permanent cable would. Ideally the connection would be hidden behind a little rubber stopper or something, so that if it gets yanked, a non-breakable part goes flying and takes most of the energy with it.

Can't say I'm a fan of those wobbly little rubber port covers that so much cheap gear comes with. But I agree there's a need to be careful with strain relief in yank-happy hardware like headphones. What do the high end guys do already?

Muirium wrote: ↑Can't say I'm a fan of those wobbly little rubber port covers that so much cheap gear comes with. But I agree there's a need to be careful with strain relief in yank-happy hardware like headphones. What do the high end guys do already?

Have replaceable cables, also the strain relief needs to be a bit longer and go over the cable a bit. Look at the old apple 30 pin connectors that cable with early iPods vs the newer ones , never seen an old one fail at the end of the cable but had multiple ones of the newer type fail due to crappy strain relief.


This is the older 30 pin


and this is the new one



You see what happens ! The strain relief is not long enough and the cable can come out of it and bend and rip as it does not stop you bending it round too much

The older one on the other hand is not only longer and stiffer ( he he) but its made of much better quality sleeving. I have a eBay special for my iPad when it next to my bed as its nice and long but when i travel i always use the old style 30 pin its never seen be wrong.

Mal-2 wrote: ↑
Just don't make the jack to which the detachable cable attaches a weak point that fails even sooner than a permanent cable would. Ideally the connection would be hidden behind a little rubber stopper or something, so that if it gets yanked, a non-breakable part goes flying and takes most of the energy with it.

easy way to do that is not have the connector on a pcb and have it connected to a part that has a weak point on it . This will act as a sacrificial part, if it breaks you replace the connector and the plate its mounted on in one go.

At its core I feel like just having a detachable cable with the connector slightly separated from the main driver wires, would be solution enough. Anything too complex, especially involving a "weak point" that could fail over time with regular use, or could break more easily with non damaging force, would just cause more problems, and overall more RMAs for coolermaster. In general having a removable cable decreases the likely-hood of damage to the unit as the cable can just pull out if caught on something.

Unless CM wanted to spend all of their R&D budget on developing a MagSafe like headphone connector... That would be pretty cool.

Also I agree on strain relief. Bolster that cable up on both ends but please please please make sure that the connector to be plugged into your audio source is not so darn chunky or weirdly shaped that I can't plug it into a mobile device that has a case on it, or fit it into my on board audio port with something plugged in next to it. I hate that so much.

I think something like the cable going into a seperate compartment to lock it in place, only the wire coming out of the compartment (not connector) would work well enough and be cheap enough to manufacture.

Drawing example:


Of course have a cover over the cable with a gap on the bottom enough to let the wire through and while it won't protect cable fully you won't be breaking off or straining the connector very easily unless you're pulling hard.

No, no, no. Completely wrong.

• It greatly limits cable options, due to connector size. (Same issue as incompatibility of vintage Sennheisers, e.g., HD 520/530, with HD 600 cables.)
• Internal connector placement may alter sound, or make the cans bulkier.
• How do you remove the cable without straining the internal connector? You're limited to straight force.
• Strain on the cable can't be avoided in the spot, where it leaves the can.

It's much worse than the simple solution used on cheap superlux hps. They don't limit cable options at all, and if you want to unplug the cable, you can simply hold both male and female connector to avoid excessive force.

The Fostex Tx0rp still has an internal connector, but it's on the side, and if you use an L-shaped jack, there's minimal strain. If you lock the cable below the connector, even better (in case the cable is heavy or something). This is perfectly executed on Sennheiser HD 25. Connectors are on the top side of cans, and held in position by attaching to the headband. You have to unscrew two screws to remove the cable, but that has to be done only if it's damaged elsewhere, or in the connector on its other end.

Is this closed already?

Well I'll just leave my feedback here, I guess.

I'm assuming the target audience for this device are gamers. Even though I play some games I don't think I fit in the regular gamer profile. I don't like flashy stuff, I don't like lights, excessive branding or bulky headphones.

I currently use Philips Fidelio X1 and they are absolutely perfect for me because:
- It has a detachable cable. This means I can replace the cable and use a VModa Boompro microphone at home for Skype and shizzles.

- Over ear headphones. These are by far the most comfortable thing for me.

- I can wear it outside and people won't think I'm an asshole. This is of course subjective but when I wear my headphones outside people understand that I like quality sound, I'm not trying to show off my cool gaming gear.

- Does not require an amplifier. Most gamers don't own an amplifier and it's always a pain when you are on the move.

- 3.5mm jack. 3.5mm jack ensures compatibility with most devices: pc, mac,, smartphones, mp3 layers, you name it. This is important to me.

I've tried several "gaming" headsets such as the Razer (all of them), Plantronics, Steelseries V2. There's a reason I don't own any of them: they all suck. They are all terrible. All of them. Terrible. If you think their sound is good you haven't tried good and you're missing out.

The microphones isn't the most important thing, but if I could not sound like I'm inside a submarine that'd be great.

If you can shift the meta from mega-boom-bass to sound quality you will own the market because you will have the only headset worth buying.