deskthority

I'm not really a keyboard collector as much as I'm an IBM battleship collector. I don't really rotate out keyboards; I have two in current regular use... a 1984 F122 in my home office, and a bolt-modded 1985 M122 for the office station in my Sprinter van. I am of the opinion that from a functional design

Hi.
I'm a disgrace, to myself and to anyone who reads this. It turns out that—for some stupid reason—the date and clock were crossed. I think it's time to start wearing the glasses my wife gave me for my birthday.
Sorry :) Let's pretend nothing happened.
BTW (both boards are working as expected)

I have both 55£ + shipping. PM me :)

Looking for a coiled cable in good or new condition that hasn't been stretched out. Willing to buy or trade depending on the owner's preference. Can trade a good-condition Model M (SDL to DIN5) black coiled cable from the mid-1980s, or I have other items available. I'm a nonsmoker/pet-free and any items

Bump, still looking for this.

This is a very old thread, but I figured I'd add a data-point for foam and foil. I have a KB5151 that chatters (multiple of the same key output with one press) quite badly. It does this with most, though not all, switches.
And then a few of them just don't register every time, notably the shift keys.

New project video:
2026 Brand New Beam Spring Keyboard production: case bending assembly
AfOwziARG_w
You can still customize your Brand New Model F and/or Beam Spring Keyboards on the project website: https://modelfkeyboards.com/
Production and assembly of the round 2 (classic style) Brand

Hi, I can not PM either.
Also sometimes i can not open this link here in China. We have a link in aliexpress too.
Could you contact us there and then we send a promotion code via ali message.
X87PRO

I'm slowly coming back from the 2025.
Still very tired but can do stuff for maybe an hour-two a day.
Here's what I found so far:
1) Brother model M and IBM model M stem internal cavities are identical - despite 5 mm length difference and significantly different stem appearance.
2) Buckling spring keys

Hey folks, I'm working on restoring an Apple M0110 and found gerber files for a Pro Micro footprint PCB that works with these long stem alps. I spent a bunch of money to print a few of these on 1.6mm PCBs with thick ENIG surface finish - these feel really nice. I also spent some time to get the ZMK firmware

I found an old Motorola development terminal from 1982, and it also happens to feature the worst switches I have ever seen in a keyboard. :lol:
They are a linear spring-over-membrane design with a cross mount, and features an internal as well as an external coil spring.
IMG_1312.jpg
Also a weird metal

Dm's are open;)

I'm seller. The price is down $500 (USD)

Yes edbods, I noted last year that the boxes and outer foam would be updated for my orders to the factory in the future. This will allow more space for the keycaps and additional burst rating for the box itself. However, for current stock, just like with the old cases from the original production,

Today we mark the five-year anniversary of my initial post here on DT. The title of my post was an allusion to the previous effort to recreate the lisp keyboard started by vsedach. My thanks go to all the folks in the community who inspired my work. In particular, I was impressed by the work of rsbseb

I'd cut off the protruding part with a sharp knife - leaves space to later fasten those back later with a short self-tapping screw.

Those Multitech boards are fascinating—I’d love to see more close-ups of the key matrix if you get the chance :| :roll:

I fixed it. That was the wrong version of the firmware. For anyone else trying to get this particular model working with the model f labs controller, you need to use this version: http://35.164.28.200:5000/#/xwhatsit/ibm/3101_3727_3278_87key/xwhatsit_rev4/LAYOUT (note the 3727 and xwhatsit versions)

To answer my own question, it does not look to be the case (pun not intended). Unless someone else already created a mod. But the assemblies look much thicker.

MG Chemicals 843AR.
I resin-printed a flipper, cured, and then painted as thinly as I could. Ideally, I think, would be to paint before curing and then covering with a thin layer of liquid resin, to prevent conductive stuff from flaking off.