Cherry Case PCB support

seebart · 02 May 2015, 16:47

ok here's a nice little "problem" I have. I have this G80-3000 HAD which I use in this G81-1000 HBD case. Now the PCB flexes in the case uppon pressure on those plastic support rows (whatever they're called). This bothers me and I'm trying to come up with an idea to add more support so no flexing will occour. I really don't care what the solution looks like since it won't be visible.Of course the angle and hight of this support is imporatant. Ideas?

: IMG_20150502_163308.jpg (941.06 KiB) Viewed 2879 times

: IMG_20150502_163123.jpg (930.65 KiB) Viewed 2879 times

ramnes · 02 May 2015, 16:59

G81 metal backplate mod + foam under the backplate and between backplate and PCB.

Nice caps btw.

seebart · 02 May 2015, 17:03

ramnes wrote: ↑G81 metal backplate mod + foam under the backplate.

Nice caps btw.

right, I want to keep it simple though. A piece of plastic in the size of the PCB with some foam might be enough to kill the flexing. Or vertical pieces of plastic might do the trick.Not sure.

ramnes · 02 May 2015, 17:07

You would just have to fix it to the back of the PCB with bolts, and that would be much better than just plastic pieces I think. That would also add a lot of weight to the board, which is always good.

seebart · 02 May 2015, 17:10

ramnes wrote: ↑You would just have to fix it to the back of the PCB with bolts, and that would be much better than just plastic pieces I think. That would also add a lot of weight to the board, which is always good.

yeah ok, in this case it might be worth the work. The keyboard is here since you asked:

http://deskthority.net/photos-f62/post- ... 4-240.html

just found this:

https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=15088.0

Nuum · 02 May 2015, 17:14

As ramnes said you could reuse the metal backplate of your G81-1000 and put it underneath the PCB with a isolating layer of some kind. The case will be a little bit harder to close then but it should be doable. Similar to this mod: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=13165.0

seebart · 02 May 2015, 17:19

thanks for the link Nuum. Of course I'm not the first person with this problem.

chzel · 02 May 2015, 21:27

Some strategically placed drops of hot glue might do the trick. Build it up to the required height, and as it is still warm put the PCB in, it should conform nicely!

Mal-2 · 02 May 2015, 23:49

Nuum wrote: ↑As ramnes said you could reuse the metal backplate of your G81-1000 and put it underneath the PCB with a isolating layer of some kind. The case will be a little bit harder to close then but it should be doable. Similar to this mod: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=13165.0

With the extra thickness, he could shave down the plastic ribs and posts to accommodate and still get the benefit of the metal backplate.

Also, stupid-fast support: cut a glue stick, leave it a little bit long. Melt the end with a lighter for 15 seconds or so and stick it in place. Melt the other end with lighters (you want to rotate so as not to get burned, they get hot) until it's the right height. Glue sticks aren't terribly sturdy, but at about 1 cm in diameter, they make up in bulk what they lack in stiffness.

seebart · 03 May 2015, 16:17

Looks like I'll have to do some shaving since the case won't snap in on the front:

this little bugger is in the way or I could simply place the plate a bit higher.

It's a friggin FAIL at this point. But I'm not giving up yet.

Nuum · 03 May 2015, 16:21

Desolder and bridge the DIP switch!

seebart · 03 May 2015, 16:23

Well either shaving or moving that DIP switch, I'm not doing both. The MX blacks feel great on that plate by the way. The problem with shaving is doing so evenly.

ramnes · 03 May 2015, 22:54

seebart wrote: ↑Well either shaving or moving that DIP switch, I'm not doing both.

Why not?

Mal-2 · 04 May 2015, 00:58

seebart wrote: ↑Looks like I'll have to do some shaving since the case won't snap in on the front:

Something like this will make short work of the rib trimming job: http://www.amazon.com/Channellock-358-8 ... B00004SBD8

seebart · 06 May 2015, 20:00

Thanks for the link, I have something similar here. I think I might try the gluestick method.