deskthority

I believe I have solved the issue! So I wasn't being totally accurate when I said I had separated the solenoid from the case. In reality, I had separated the top and bottom cases, with the solenoid being the only thing on the bottom case. This becomes important. As it turns out, the supplies screw, ...

Hello, I recently received my solenoid and key caps for my F77 from Elipse. I ran into some rather peculiar issues with it though, and I'm curious as to whether anyone has any idea what might be up. Originally, I'd installed the solenoid per the guide. However, I found that the screw protruded too f...

Okay, so I'll skip keyboards built into laptops or my Commodore: 1. My WASD V2, this is my regular go-to keyboard. It's nice but not obnoxiously loud (MX Browns) 2. My WASD V3, this is my work keyboard for in the lab. So far so good. 3. USB Thinkpad Keyboard, this is used for my music creation PC, ...

Okay, so I'll skip keyboards built into laptops or my Commodore: 1. My WASD V2, this is my regular go-to keyboard. It's nice but not obnoxiously loud (MX Browns) 2. My WASD V3, this is my work keyboard for in the lab. So far so good. 3. USB Thinkpad Keyboard, this is used for my music creation PC, w...

arcticfox wrote: ↑

11 Dec 2020, 04:38

public static void main(String[] args){}

and other programming boiler plates

Ayy Java!

Huh, I didn't know there was someone who wrote about drilling holes to reattach the space bar. When I wrote my guide with the fishing wire it was on how to keep that space bar flipper in its place when you were reassembling the internals with the space bar still mounted. Attaching the space bar lat...

I'm having a hard time picturing how to get the stabalizer wire to catch on both hooks on the space bar. Can you point out where you're attaching the floss? No floss required! I actually just pulled my spacebar off for the first time in a long time to see how exactly this works again. (I use this k...

I was reading through darkcruix's technical reference for the Model F, which is very well done, and I saw a discussion on the XT/AT's spacebar stabilizer. The guide recommends against the drilling holes method that avoids taking the entire Model F apart. (Something that is not fun, especially withou...

If you happen to have the plastic chip out of there, I'd recommend using super glue. In my experience it works well for this kind of repair on plastic, and if you don't use too much it'll be very very hard to even notice. However, if you don't have that chip, then hellothere's recommendation of JB W...

We've been talking too much about the user experience. Let's talk repair. How about switches that are welded, not soldered, in? Someone will probably point out that it's been done and provide pics. InB4 Apple starts doing this in all of their electronics. Spot welding could be feasible, similar to ...

You gotta make it bind a ton as well Lots of slop outta do it! I'm not sure what it was, but I think it could have been a variation of Siemens STB that had a weird sensation when pressing. It was scratchy on the way down in a way that resembled getting shocked with electricity, as when touching an ...

When I aquire a 3D printer, I want to toy with making some MX style switches. One design I was thinking of would have a metal strip that would slide at an angle against another metal strip to complete the circuit. This would cause the edge of the first strip to make a nasty noise, I'm hoping for som...