Noob question.
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- Main keyboard: Das Keyboard 4 Professional clicky
- Main mouse: Razer Deathadder Chroma
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Blue
- DT Pro Member: -
I have a Das Keyboard 4 Professional clicky and the two of the switches don't seem to click like the others. Is that fixable? Do I need a new keyswitch? Also my spacebar feels like it has a much higher actuation force than the other keys, is that due to the wire guides? Can I loosten them or something? If not can I put a brown spring in the blue switch to lower the force?
Sorry for so many questions, I'm new to mechanical keyboards.
Thanks!
Sorry for so many questions, I'm new to mechanical keyboards.
Thanks!
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- let's go
- Location: Spain
- Main keyboard: Realforce TKL/HHKB (both 45g/JIS)
- Main mouse: CST L-Trac CST2545-5W
- Favorite switch: Topre
- DT Pro Member: -
You can try to clean with hydrogen peroxide the inner part of the switch, that is how I restored an old keyboard with MX blue with ots of non-clicky keys. You need to remove the keycaps and then remove the cap of the switch.
Regarding the spacebar it may have a stiffier spring than the rest of the keys. If that is the case you could change it for another one on the same keyboard (ie, a key you almost never use), or buy a new spring.
Regarding the spacebar it may have a stiffier spring than the rest of the keys. If that is the case you could change it for another one on the same keyboard (ie, a key you almost never use), or buy a new spring.
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- Main keyboard: Das Keyboard 4 Professional clicky
- Main mouse: Razer Deathadder Chroma
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Blue
- DT Pro Member: -
Thank you for the help. Should I use a Q-tip? How much peroxide should I use? Does it need to be bone dry when I put the switch back together?amospalla wrote: ↑You can try to clean with hydrogen peroxide the inner part of the switch, that is how I restored an old keyboard with MX blue with ots of non-clicky keys. You need to remove the keycaps and then remove the cap of the switch.
Regarding the spacebar it may have a stiffier spring than the rest of the keys. If that is the case you could change it for another one on the same keyboard (ie, a key you almost never use), or buy a new spring.
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- Main keyboard: Das Keyboard 4 Professional clicky
- Main mouse: Razer Deathadder Chroma
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Blue
- DT Pro Member: -
Thanks. Good thing I'm not home yet to do anything. Also I heard mashing the bad keys a few hundred times can fix it.chzel wrote: ↑Why peroxide??? It is an oxidizer.
IPA (isopropylic alcohol) is much better, and yes the switch should be dry before reassembly.
- Chyros
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: whatever I'm reviewing next :p
- Main mouse: a cheap Logitech
- Favorite switch: Alps SKCM Blue
- DT Pro Member: -
Do not use hydrogen peroxide to clean electronics. In fact, I'd recommend not using it to clean anything.
Like Chzel said, use IPA, much better. Also dries much faster. If there's dust in the mechanism, blow it out with compressed air.
Like Chzel said, use IPA, much better. Also dries much faster. If there's dust in the mechanism, blow it out with compressed air.
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- Main keyboard: Das Keyboard 4 Professional clicky
- Main mouse: Razer Deathadder Chroma
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Blue
- DT Pro Member: -
Okay, so I took of the spacebar key and found it used Cherry dummy switches I think?
Pic:
Is this the cause of the mushiness/high actuation force? I heard Costar stabilizers are better. Is that just how Cherry stabilizers are, or can I just lube it or something?
Pic:
Is this the cause of the mushiness/high actuation force? I heard Costar stabilizers are better. Is that just how Cherry stabilizers are, or can I just lube it or something?
- chzel
- Location: Athens, Greece
- Main keyboard: Phantom
- Main mouse: Mionix Avior 7000
- Favorite switch: Beamspring, BS, Vintage Blacks.
- DT Pro Member: 0086
Cherry stabilizers have two little "prongs" on the underside that work as sprung legs and dampen the bottom out.
If you take out the stabilizer and cut the prongs it gets much better IMHO. Note that to remove the stabilizer you need to desolder the switch.
A tiny bit of thin lube might also help, but I have never found it necessary.
If you take out the stabilizer and cut the prongs it gets much better IMHO. Note that to remove the stabilizer you need to desolder the switch.
A tiny bit of thin lube might also help, but I have never found it necessary.
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- Location: Stockholm, Sweden
- DT Pro Member: 0011
That is a matter of personal taste. I don't bottom out or use O-rings, so I don't bottom out hard anyway.
I have recently use hydrogen peroxide to rust steel quickly.
I have recently use hydrogen peroxide to rust steel quickly.
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- DT Pro Member: -
If you want to rust your springs, use peroxide.
Anyway, for the noobs, there are two kinds of stabilizers. Cherry, which is the one here, is a wire stabilizer with a "dummy" stem attached so you can easily remove and attach keys. The wire goes under the plate.
The other kind is Costar where there is no "dummy" stem. The wire directly attaches to the keycap. The wire is entirely visible from the plate. They are a bit harder than cherry to remove but all you need to do is to use a screwdrivers or stick to push the wrote to the side so you can lift the keycap. Really is not that hard as long you do the right technique.
There are differences between the two but honestly I wouldn't be too concerned with them other than a little lithium grease at the hinge.
Anyway, for the noobs, there are two kinds of stabilizers. Cherry, which is the one here, is a wire stabilizer with a "dummy" stem attached so you can easily remove and attach keys. The wire goes under the plate.
The other kind is Costar where there is no "dummy" stem. The wire directly attaches to the keycap. The wire is entirely visible from the plate. They are a bit harder than cherry to remove but all you need to do is to use a screwdrivers or stick to push the wrote to the side so you can lift the keycap. Really is not that hard as long you do the right technique.
There are differences between the two but honestly I wouldn't be too concerned with them other than a little lithium grease at the hinge.