question - plate with cutouts

[Laser]

I would like to replace my CM Storm Quickfire Rapid (TKL) plate with one with cutouts for easy top switch replacement (to avoid desoldering, after replacing the default plate). I already modded the keyboard once (blue switches with springs from black cherries), but i'd really like to have testing options (i have some clear switches, and i'd like to test some different springs with them). What are the solutions (even for other TKL boards), if other people tried it? Can one mod the default plate? Are there any compatible Phantom plates? Other options?

[Vierax]

you can mod it but only if you have time to spend and the appropriate tools. Another option is to wait the next round of Matteo's Lasercut prototyping case GB where you can order your specific plate(s). I don't know if Phantom plates are compatible with the QFR but they're hard to find. If you can't wait, you can try to prospect some lasercut companies but this is the most expensive way.

[rindorbrot]

Phantom plates are incompatible due to the missing controller cutout.

[Findecanor]

It has been done, apparently, and with a two runs of ANSI plates.
Maybe a participant in that order would be willing to part with a plate that he is not using... There is also apparently some demand for a third run.

A Phantom plate could be modified to work. The original run was made of aluminium, so the plate could be modifier with just a hacksaw and a few flat files to give room for the controller. I am not sure, but you may also need to drill new screw holes to make it fit in the Quickfire Rapid's case. A steel plate would be much more difficult to cut by hand.

It would be much cheaper to have a plate made out of acrylic than metal ... but some people say that 1.5 mm acrylic is too brittle to use for a plate. I wonder, because the purpose of the plate should be to prevent switches from twisting. The PCB should provide rigidity enough... Has anybody really used a 1.5mm acrylic plate together with a PCB and had the plate break?

[Jmneuv]

Instead of ruining the plate, you should just go with a phantom altogether.. the QFR case can be reused as can the switches.

[Findecanor]

I can see reasons against:
* The Phantom PCB is not a drop-in replacement in the QFR case like it is in a Filco. You would have to modify either the QFR case or the Phantom PCB (source).
* The detachable cable would have to be reengineered or made permanent with the Phantom.
* The stock Phantom firmware does not support media keys (although Hasu's firmware does and supports the Phantom, and has NKRO).
The QFR does take a drop-in replacement controller from bpiphany if you want to use a custom firmware.

[Jmneuv]

I just did a qfr phantomization 3 weeks ago: the changes to the case are pretty minor:
.chopped off the one shaft from the top half that fits the only screw (the case clips suffice afterwards)
.removed one standoff instead of drilling the pcb (never missed it in terms of solidness)
.filed down the screwhole 'dome' to have some extra space for the usb plug
.drilled a tiny hole for the teensy button
.modified a usb cable to retain the detachable plug (optional, you could just remove the tiny detach-pcb and guide the cable through there)

The phantom plates don't have bent edges (which are resting on the case bottom with the original plate) not sure how much the straight plate lessens the stability.

Most of the work for me was reusing the qfr plate for my full navblock layout, widening caps lock for off-center, repainting it, etc. (doesn't apply with phantom plate)

Admittedly it is some work, if you don't have the patience to commit an evening or two you shouldn't do it, otherwise frustration might ensue.

The replacement controllers from bpiphany have not much firmware support as of yet.

[Laser]

Thanks for all the replies! I will certainly follow the plate modding/Phantom future GBs.
I admit, perhaps i'm looking for the cheapest / faster solution. Can't one just "file" the edges of each switch rectangle hole from the plate, to make those "ears" needed for the switch removal?

[mj45]

Thanks for all the replies! I will certainly follow the plate modding/Phantom future GBs.
I admit, perhaps i'm looking for the cheapest / faster solution. Can't one just "file" the edges of each switch rectangle hole from the plate, to make those "ears" needed for the switch removal?

If you have the the patience filing can be done but their are 87 of them!

[Laser]

Actually only 61 of them! (i like the arrows, function keys and page up/page down etc. cluster to remain as they are). This may be the fastest & cheapest solution then Thanks!

[Jmneuv]

The QFR plate is very soft steel, you might have it all twisted up after that much filing. Desoldering might be not the worst option afterall, with a standard pump and some practice it's particularly easy to desolder switches.

[Laser]

Desoldering once, it's not a problem. But multiple desoldering, on the same PCB, i don't like it so much.

I just put my hands on a small portable dremel/multi-grinder tool, and i tested it at work on a broken metal-made PC power source. It looks like it will work perfectly to "locally" enlarge the switch holes of the keyboard plate.

[Vierax]

To enlarge holes, you can desolder MX once at a time but it's better to remove all of them at once and work the plate separately to avoid some metal dust on PCB and in switches.

[Laser]

Thanks for the advice - yes, i intend to desolder all the switches, than take apart the plate and work on it at a safe distance from the PCB. By "once", i meant i don't want to desolder/resolder all the switches multiple times (to change springs or stems), only this one time -in order to protect the PCB - which is why i'm modifying the plate in the first place

[Laser]

So, first i'll try it on a Ducky 1087C. Step 1, desoldering - done

dk-1087.jpg (94.29 KiB) Viewed 5360 times

[Laser]

Step 2, "phanducky", done - plate doesn't look aesthetically TOO pleasing, but - it's functional:

ducky_plate_mod.jpg (68.4 KiB) Viewed 5265 times

I won't bother with the rest of the switch holes (modifiers and so on), since i intend to use non-clicky stems with black springs for those, no matter what the alphanumeric switches are.

[jdcarpe]

Has anybody really used a 1.5mm acrylic plate together with a PCB and had the plate break?

I know this is a bit OT now, but I wanted to chime in here with my personal experience. I purchased an Epsilon keyboard DIY kit from metalliqaz, the designer of it. He used a layered case design with standoffs, and the plates (switch plate and bottom) were made using 1.5mm acrylic. Several places on the plate cracked when I was installing (Cherry plate mount) stabilizers and switches. Not enough to make the plate unusable, but there were cracks from one hole to another on the plate.

I later had a pair of plates made in stainless steel, and I love that Epsilon now. The acrylic plate completely broke apart into several pieces when I desoldered the switches and removed them from the plate.


Also, great job on modifying that Ducky plate, OP! Looking really good so far.

[Vierax]

Yeah acrylic isn't a tough plastic, Polycarbonate (aka PC, Lexan, Makrolon) is more appropriate but more expensive too.

BTW nice work Laser, how long does it take to mod it ?

[jdcarpe]

Yeah acrylic isn't a tough plastic, Polycarbonate (ahhka PC, Lexan, Makrolon) is more appropriate but more expensive too.

BTW nice work Laser, how long does it take to mod it ?

The problem with laser cutting polycarbonate is that it burns and emits foul, poisonous gases. Good luck getting anyone to laser cut it for you.

[Vierax]

I was thinking of CNC drilling rather than lasering but you have a huge point :/

[Laser]

No problem discussing derived topics in the thread, it's flexible and i learn a lot of things from them

It took a while to mod the plate - because i used a portable multigrinder with accumulators - i had 3 sessions, each in a different day, of 1-1.5 hours each (batteries span), so in total - around 4 effective working hours. I used a diamond coated conical head ("bit" i see it's called). I understand that a better solution would have been to use a "reaming bit drill", but i had no access to such thing. And expect some muscle fever in you back (vibrations + not-your-everyday-moves to keep the holes uniform).

[Laser]

Status ... i am somewhere inside step 3 (resoldering) - all is well, i just have to wait until tomorrow to buy ... solder.

Meanwhile, i finished modding my other keyboard - i desoldered everything and mounted clear switches with springs from the original black cherries. I also took the (thin) PBT keycaps from a Cherry keyboard - can't believe how different they feel on a plate-mounted keyboard! I am very proud of the result: panda clears feel excellent, and the keycaps too

(and yes, i know the spacebar is upside down)

quickfire_rapid_1.jpg (104.75 KiB) Viewed 5139 times

quickfire_rapid_2.jpg (100.14 KiB) Viewed 5139 times

[Laser]

Ok, the post before the last one, coming back to the ducky, this is how it looks after soldering and testing that each key works. I won't remove all the top switches to test the holes, though

I decided to go for this keyboard with blue stems & 65g springs.

dk-1087-mounted-01.jpg (124.34 KiB) Viewed 5105 times

dk-1087-mounted-03.jpg (115.84 KiB) Viewed 5105 times

[Laser]

(For completion) Last step, completed keyboard with some mix of semi-matching new & old keycaps:

dk-1087-01.jpg (102.22 KiB) Viewed 5006 times

As you can see, the cutouts are sufficiently small not to be seen between the keycaps:

dk-1087-02.jpg (85.84 KiB) Viewed 5006 times

[Findecanor]

Several places on the [1.5mm acrylic] plate cracked when I was installing (Cherry plate mount) stabilizers and switches. Not enough to make the plate unusable, but there were cracks from one hole to another on the plate.

Thanks. I got acrylic plates made for my ErgoDox that I'll be installing this weekend. I'll be extra careful then...