Hi folks, I'm a happy user of an Apple M0110 keyboard that I converted using Hasu's TMK converter.
While I love this keyboard, I really couldn't stand the physically locking Caps Lock (that I use as the Ctrl key). The switch used is the vintage Alps SKCC Lock, that has a physical locking mechanism: http://deskthority.net/wiki/Alps_SKCC_Lock
Lowpoly observed that the SKCC Lock switch stem is shorter than the other switches stem and as a consequence the Caps Lock keycap as a longer mounting point to compensate: http://deskthority.net/workshop-f7/the- ... t1067.html
[Image courtesy of Lowpoly]
[Image courtesy of Lowpoly]
If you want to use a standard SKCC in place of the SKCC Lock switch, you have to dremel the Caps Lock keycap ... I do not like the idea of damaging it
[Image courtesy of Lowpoly]
This is a very simple and humble mod that consists in opening the switch to remove the locking mechanism (the bended yellow wire and the small brown epoxy lug).
Then you just have to reassemble the switch. The real plus of this solution is that you can still reverse the mod and go back to the vanilla locking switch and the keycap remains untouched.
Enjoy !
Note: I had to desolder the switch to open it, but their's probably a way to remove the top part without doing so.
Apple M0110 - Alps SKCC lock switch mod
- GuilleAcoustic
- Location: France
- Main keyboard: IBM Model F XT
- Main mouse: CH Products Trackball Pro
- Favorite switch: capacitive buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: -
Last edited by GuilleAcoustic on 16 Dec 2015, 14:40, edited 1 time in total.
- GuilleAcoustic
- Location: France
- Main keyboard: IBM Model F XT
- Main mouse: CH Products Trackball Pro
- Favorite switch: capacitive buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: -
The "big" easily noticable tabs are for the plate mounting. To open the switch you have to slightly release the very small tabs on the other sides (be careful as they are fragile).HzFaq wrote: ↑Thanks for the write up and pictures, going to be giving this a go soon.
How do you open the switch, do you just have to pry the tabs on the side?
Maybe you can use the four small holes on the top panel to do so, thus not having to desolder the switch. But I had no luck with them (probably not using the right tool).
- chzel
- Location: Athens, Greece
- Main keyboard: Phantom
- Main mouse: Mionix Avior 7000
- Favorite switch: Beamspring, BS, Vintage Blacks.
- DT Pro Member: 0086
We had this exact conversation with TheNacho yesterday!
No way to open them in situ, the plate "locks" the tabs when installed!chzel wrote: ↑ First of all you remove the external spring by disengaging the end that goes though the slider.
Then you need to open the switch, pry the two flat sides apart being very careful not to overdo it, they break easily.
After you open the switch, just remove the wire and the brown piece and reassemble.
If you need any pics of the procedure let me know, I have the switch loose in front of me!
And I need to get back to converting mine!
- GuilleAcoustic
- Location: France
- Main keyboard: IBM Model F XT
- Main mouse: CH Products Trackball Pro
- Favorite switch: capacitive buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: -
Awesome ! Looks like I was not the only one annoyed by this locking mechanism .chzel wrote: ↑We had this exact conversation with TheNacho yesterday!No way to open them in situ, the plate "locks" the tabs when installed!chzel wrote: ↑ First of all you remove the external spring by disengaging the end that goes though the slider.
Then you need to open the switch, pry the two flat sides apart being very careful not to overdo it, they break easily.
After you open the switch, just remove the wire and the brown piece and reassemble.
If you need any pics of the procedure let me know, I have the switch loose in front of me!
And I need to get back to converting mine!