IBM Beamspring 3278
- macmakkara
- Location: Finland
- DT Pro Member: -
So i got one 3278 from "Seller of Rust" that several DT members got beam springs from in recent months, including Monster-Toys, Scottc, Muirium, Halvar and now me.
But yeah il go to the point.
Here she is:
8 has little chip and 6 and 7 was bended:
Top off and some corrosion:
Contamination shield:
Contamination shield off:
Any idea how to clean there little fuckers?
Halfway there:
There they are!
Il have to do some derust for this. Going to try vinegar bath.
But yeah il go to the point.
Here she is:
8 has little chip and 6 and 7 was bended:
Top off and some corrosion:
Contamination shield:
Contamination shield off:
Any idea how to clean there little fuckers?
Halfway there:
There they are!
Il have to do some derust for this. Going to try vinegar bath.
- macmakkara
- Location: Finland
- DT Pro Member: -
Yeah il suggest should do the same if its at same condition as mine.
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
To be honest, I'd just leave that crud on there. A vinegar bath will strip the rubbery foam from the inside, which is not good: that stuff is required and you'll have to replace it like Monster Toys did. Meanwhile, the Hammerite Rust Remover route that I took keeps that stuff in place, but is a lot of scrubbing for no real gain. Your PCB is in good shape, that's what matters. And the switches!
- macmakkara
- Location: Finland
- DT Pro Member: -
Yeah im going to replace it cause it crumbled off from there when i turned that over :/. so il bath it and get some foam to replace it =)
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
Keep us posted! My foam's not in great shape and I may replace it too. Like a Model F, I think it alters the keyboard's feel so it's something you want to be sure to get right.
- macmakkara
- Location: Finland
- DT Pro Member: -
Yeah propably doing derust tomorrow if i find time for it if not then it moves to next week.
- photekq
- Cherry Picker
- Location: United Kingdom
- Main keyboard: Various Cherry Corp keyboards
- Main mouse: Razer Deathadder (1st gen)
- Favorite switch: Nixdorf 'Soft Touch' MX Black (55g springs)
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
Subbed! Looking forward to seeing this log
By the way, how much does it weigh?
By the way, how much does it weigh?
-
- Location: UK
- Main keyboard: Filco ZERO green alps, Model F 122 Terminal
- Main mouse: Ducky Secret / Roller Mouse Pro 1
- Favorite switch: MX Mount Topre / Model F Buckling
- DT Pro Member: 0167
that is a big clean up job , i would be more worried about the rust on the switches. Foam is the main problem, get that sorted and you should be fine, just get all the loose corrosion off the plate with a wire brush and then use some rust remedy bit of acid etch primer and then a top coat of satin black and you are good to go
- macmakkara
- Location: Finland
- DT Pro Member: -
Yep il have to solve how im going to remove Rush on those switches. Propably trying to rub with white vinegar and then use some rust converter / remover.
@photekq
Il Weight it when i assemble it back together.
@photekq
Il Weight it when i assemble it back together.
-
- Location: UK
- Main keyboard: Filco ZERO green alps, Model F 122 Terminal
- Main mouse: Ducky Secret / Roller Mouse Pro 1
- Favorite switch: MX Mount Topre / Model F Buckling
- DT Pro Member: 0167
I would be very very mindful when doing anything to the switches, you get anything inside them and its curtains, i would personally make a jig to hold them upside down so nothing can run into them and then use the rust remover, i would not scrub anything as you risk getting liquid / dust into the switch and well that's not good.
- macmakkara
- Location: Finland
- DT Pro Member: -
Yeah thats what im afraid of also :/ il try to come up with something.
- dorkvader
- Main keyboard: Unicomp
- Main mouse: CST 1550
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring over Capacitave. (Model F)
- DT Pro Member: -
The one I received to mod for an excellent DT & GH member was in beautiful condition: almost no rust whatsoever.
That one is like the 3278 I got on eBay from that guy in virginia. I will be cleaning off the rust and clearcoating it for safety.
I was just going to sand the rust off, but maybe I'll try vinegar instead.
That one is like the 3278 I got on eBay from that guy in virginia. I will be cleaning off the rust and clearcoating it for safety.
I was just going to sand the rust off, but maybe I'll try vinegar instead.
- 7bit
- Location: Berlin, DE
- Main keyboard: Tipro / IBM 3270 emulator
- Main mouse: Logitech granite for SGI
- Favorite switch: MX Lock
- DT Pro Member: 0001
I once bathed a Cherry G80-1501 which was a bit stinky in vinegar and indeed the stink went off, but it left little crystals at the metal parts inside the switches. It took me a while to clean that off and make the switches usable again.
- dorkvader
- Main keyboard: Unicomp
- Main mouse: CST 1550
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring over Capacitave. (Model F)
- DT Pro Member: -
anything that won't let air (and oxygen) through should all work the same. I will probably use some rustoleum-brand paint.Muirium wrote: ↑Clearcoating, eh? What do you suggest to keep the rust away?
-
- Location: UK
- Main keyboard: Filco ZERO green alps, Model F 122 Terminal
- Main mouse: Ducky Secret / Roller Mouse Pro 1
- Favorite switch: MX Mount Topre / Model F Buckling
- DT Pro Member: 0167
i am just tempted to get a paint shop to to all the metal parts of mine if the top case is ok i wont bother with that .
they are the experts on preparing metal
i dont even know if mine needs it yet, just paid my 1/2 of the customs , its about 30 miles away from me , so close but may as well be 1000 light years
they are the experts on preparing metal
i dont even know if mine needs it yet, just paid my 1/2 of the customs , its about 30 miles away from me , so close but may as well be 1000 light years
-
- Location: UK
- Main keyboard: Filco ZERO green alps, Model F 122 Terminal
- Main mouse: Ducky Secret / Roller Mouse Pro 1
- Favorite switch: MX Mount Topre / Model F Buckling
- DT Pro Member: 0167
i think that they will be all i saw on the photos was dust but you never know what will greet you inside
-
- Location: Belgium, land of Liberty Wafles and Freedom Fries
- Main keyboard: G80-3K with Clears
- Favorite switch: Capacitative BS
- DT Pro Member: 0049
I don't have a beamspring so I don't know about its tolerances, but do check how much clearance you have before applying paint.
For example, painting the plate too thick might make it difficult to insert the key modules, similarly it might be hard to push the caps on if the stem was made thicker by a layer of paint.
For example, painting the plate too thick might make it difficult to insert the key modules, similarly it might be hard to push the caps on if the stem was made thicker by a layer of paint.