Centered stem capslock modding
- Prelim
- Location: Portugal
- Main keyboard: GH60 rev.C, DS3 TKL, Dolch PAC, OG Cherry stuff
- Main mouse: DA Chroma
- Favorite switch: 65g custom Cherry/Gats linear and still ISO lover!
- DT Pro Member: -
Hi guys,
I saw this thread ( http://deskthority.net/w-a-n-t-t-o-b-u- ... t1956.html ) earlier and was going to do the same capslock mod.
However I only have some spare MX caps left to destroy (G81 last row off-center caps) and was planing to use them for the capslock. The thing is the last row caps stem angle is completely different from the capslock row caps... do you guys made this mod using a stem from the same row?! How can I do this using my last row stems? (I've tried using sandpaper to ajust the stem angle but it is way to difficult due to the little stem size )
Here's a couple photos, in order to better understand my problem:
- Cherry thick PBT Capslock, with the surface already sanded/prepared for new stem:
- Last row stems cuts:
- Angle difference (comparison between "A" keycap since is same row as capslock):
I saw this thread ( http://deskthority.net/w-a-n-t-t-o-b-u- ... t1956.html ) earlier and was going to do the same capslock mod.
However I only have some spare MX caps left to destroy (G81 last row off-center caps) and was planing to use them for the capslock. The thing is the last row caps stem angle is completely different from the capslock row caps... do you guys made this mod using a stem from the same row?! How can I do this using my last row stems? (I've tried using sandpaper to ajust the stem angle but it is way to difficult due to the little stem size )
Here's a couple photos, in order to better understand my problem:
- Cherry thick PBT Capslock, with the surface already sanded/prepared for new stem:
- Last row stems cuts:
- Angle difference (comparison between "A" keycap since is same row as capslock):
- kbdfr
- The Tiproman
- Location: Berlin, Germany
- Main keyboard: Tipro MID-QM-128A + two Tipro matrix modules
- Main mouse: Contour Rollermouse Pro
- Favorite switch: Cherry black
- DT Pro Member: 0010
Taken from the thread you linked to:Prelim wrote: ↑[…] do you guys made this mod using a stem from the same row?! […] (I've tried using sandpaper to ajust the stem angle but it is way to difficult due to the little stem size )
The Jarltech keycaps I use for that are made from a softer material which is much easier to work on, and as they have no "angle" the only thing you have to worry about is adapting the remnant of the top.kbdfr wrote: ↑[…] prepare the new stem, taken from another keycap with a bit of the top (I use old Jarltech relegendables for that), ensuring that the stem will be perpendicular to the base of the keycap:
.
Wanted to post a photo, but my camera appears to be on strike (no way to get a sharp pic).
Anyway, I can send you a few caps for shipping costs if you're a DT club member, or for 0.50 € each + shipping if you're not.
- tlt
- Location: Sweden
- Main keyboard: Topre Realforce 105UFW
- Main mouse: Mionix Avior 7000
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Brown
- DT Pro Member: -
Made this mod recently with ABS caps and epoxy. The result was ok but the center of the cap is to near the lowered part of the cap so that it gets in the way of the switch housing when it is pushed. I carved out some of the plastic in the cap and put the stem slightly of center to make it work. I didn't want to modify the switch to make it fit.
-
- Location: Stockholm, Sweden
- DT Pro Member: 0011
I take a key from the same row and cut the top off first. File that flat just so that there isn't any remnant from the top left. Then cut the stem off from the struts that hold it to the side wall. More difficult with the Caps Lock row though because it is the lowest on the board.
- Prelim
- Location: Portugal
- Main keyboard: GH60 rev.C, DS3 TKL, Dolch PAC, OG Cherry stuff
- Main mouse: DA Chroma
- Favorite switch: 65g custom Cherry/Gats linear and still ISO lover!
- DT Pro Member: -
thank you guys,
Well I haven't any spare cap from the same row or flat relegendable caps (that's @kbdfr but no need for that), so I'll try to adjust the angle initially using papersand on the entire keycap (to maximize the working area) and then cutting the stem to fit capslock. I can't imagine any other alternative :/
Well I haven't any spare cap from the same row or flat relegendable caps (that's @kbdfr but no need for that), so I'll try to adjust the angle initially using papersand on the entire keycap (to maximize the working area) and then cutting the stem to fit capslock. I can't imagine any other alternative :/
- kbdfr
- The Tiproman
- Location: Berlin, Germany
- Main keyboard: Tipro MID-QM-128A + two Tipro matrix modules
- Main mouse: Contour Rollermouse Pro
- Favorite switch: Cherry black
- DT Pro Member: 0010
The caps I use are not flat - as a matter of fact, they are rather tall.
They consist of two parts, the one with the stem is a rather soft material and quite easy to cut with a Stanley knife.
They consist of two parts, the one with the stem is a rather soft material and quite easy to cut with a Stanley knife.
- Prelim
- Location: Portugal
- Main keyboard: GH60 rev.C, DS3 TKL, Dolch PAC, OG Cherry stuff
- Main mouse: DA Chroma
- Favorite switch: 65g custom Cherry/Gats linear and still ISO lover!
- DT Pro Member: -
Hi again,
Yesterday I ended up modding the capslock as promised.
I managed to adjust the angle of the stem perfectly (using sandpaper) and followed the procedure:
1- Fit the stem in the switch.
2- Put the capslock cap above to test how high it was; time for more sandpaper work on stem to adjust height; guarantee everything allowed perfect alignment and height.
3- Put some epoxy inside capslock and position it in the right place; make some pressure and be sure it's perfectly aligned.
4- Wait 24h in order to cure epoxy.
After the 24h I've removed the cap to check the inside (everything was just fine) and when I putted the cap again, the height was completely different!
I thought I've made some error, so I took off some height of the stem once more and put again the cap and: "-OMG, it's with the same height!?"
So I check again it all, and it seems that the part of the stepped capslock is touching the switch housing, so the stem isn't able to enter the switch after some point. I find it very odd no one reporting the same issue, including ripster etc (who did the mod several times).
What do you guys think about this? Here's also some more photos to better document my problem
Yesterday I ended up modding the capslock as promised.
I managed to adjust the angle of the stem perfectly (using sandpaper) and followed the procedure:
1- Fit the stem in the switch.
2- Put the capslock cap above to test how high it was; time for more sandpaper work on stem to adjust height; guarantee everything allowed perfect alignment and height.
3- Put some epoxy inside capslock and position it in the right place; make some pressure and be sure it's perfectly aligned.
4- Wait 24h in order to cure epoxy.
After the 24h I've removed the cap to check the inside (everything was just fine) and when I putted the cap again, the height was completely different!
I thought I've made some error, so I took off some height of the stem once more and put again the cap and: "-OMG, it's with the same height!?"
So I check again it all, and it seems that the part of the stepped capslock is touching the switch housing, so the stem isn't able to enter the switch after some point. I find it very odd no one reporting the same issue, including ripster etc (who did the mod several times).
What do you guys think about this? Here's also some more photos to better document my problem
- Nuum
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: KBD8X Mk I (60g Clears), Phantom (Nixdorf Blacks)
- Main mouse: Corsair M65 PRO RGB
- Favorite switch: 60g MX Clears/Brown Alps/Buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: 0084
You have to sand down the keycap on that part, I had to do that on my one (made by kbdfr), too! Just take away some of the edge of the step and be careful not to protrude trough the keycap.
- kbdfr
- The Tiproman
- Location: Berlin, Germany
- Main keyboard: Tipro MID-QM-128A + two Tipro matrix modules
- Main mouse: Contour Rollermouse Pro
- Favorite switch: Cherry black
- DT Pro Member: 0010
And be sure the is nothing inside the stem of the cap.
Also, the epoxy mass around the stem could prevent it from properly entering the switch.
Also, the epoxy mass around the stem could prevent it from properly entering the switch.
- Prelim
- Location: Portugal
- Main keyboard: GH60 rev.C, DS3 TKL, Dolch PAC, OG Cherry stuff
- Main mouse: DA Chroma
- Favorite switch: 65g custom Cherry/Gats linear and still ISO lover!
- DT Pro Member: -
a already took off a bit (just see in the last pic, cutted with x-ato around on the step). I also removed some epoxy and it's the sameNuum wrote: ↑You have to sand down the keycap on that part, I had to do that on my one (made by kbdfr), too! Just take away some of the edge of the step and be careful not to protrude trough the keycap.
Last edited by Prelim on 31 Jan 2015, 13:47, edited 1 time in total.
- tlt
- Location: Sweden
- Main keyboard: Topre Realforce 105UFW
- Main mouse: Mionix Avior 7000
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Brown
- DT Pro Member: -
I mentioned this problem in my earlier post. The center of the cap is to close to the lowered side at least on Cherry caps. This mod in not that great but often there aren't any other options. Anyone got a spare center stemed WoB cherry ds capslock?
- kbdfr
- The Tiproman
- Location: Berlin, Germany
- Main keyboard: Tipro MID-QM-128A + two Tipro matrix modules
- Main mouse: Contour Rollermouse Pro
- Favorite switch: Cherry black
- DT Pro Member: 0010
I don’t really have that problem.
The reason is perhaps that I did not use an epoxy mass surrounding a stem, but rather prepared a stem still having a part of the cap "roof" so as to obtain a contact surface und just glued that "roof" inside the cap.
As I did not think of drilling through the stem prior to glueing it, the slider of the switch does not completely reach through the stem up to the cap, or in other words, the cap sits unnoticeably higher than it should, but that’s nothing you would notice unless you know.
I also removed some material from the "side wall"of the step, still the key travel is also unnoticeably shorter than normal, but again that’s nothing you would notice unless you know.
I have been using it for nearly three years now and am perfectly happy with it.
The reason is perhaps that I did not use an epoxy mass surrounding a stem, but rather prepared a stem still having a part of the cap "roof" so as to obtain a contact surface und just glued that "roof" inside the cap.
As I did not think of drilling through the stem prior to glueing it, the slider of the switch does not completely reach through the stem up to the cap, or in other words, the cap sits unnoticeably higher than it should, but that’s nothing you would notice unless you know.
I also removed some material from the "side wall"of the step, still the key travel is also unnoticeably shorter than normal, but again that’s nothing you would notice unless you know.
I have been using it for nearly three years now and am perfectly happy with it.
- Prelim
- Location: Portugal
- Main keyboard: GH60 rev.C, DS3 TKL, Dolch PAC, OG Cherry stuff
- Main mouse: DA Chroma
- Favorite switch: 65g custom Cherry/Gats linear and still ISO lover!
- DT Pro Member: -
thanks for the help @kbdfr, can you post a photo of yours?
I just fucked it all, guess I sand it too much and even now its a tad higher grrr...
I quit!... don't have any lasered capslock left to mod
I just fucked it all, guess I sand it too much and even now its a tad higher grrr...
I quit!... don't have any lasered capslock left to mod
- kbdfr
- The Tiproman
- Location: Berlin, Germany
- Main keyboard: Tipro MID-QM-128A + two Tipro matrix modules
- Main mouse: Contour Rollermouse Pro
- Favorite switch: Cherry black
- DT Pro Member: 0010
Old photo, but it hasn’t changed since then
I can send you a lasered CapsLock, although the printing seems less dark than on yours. It has thin walls, so you can hardly (but perhaps won’t need to) remove material from the step.
And while I’m at it, I can send you a few old caps like those I use for such modding.
No charge for that, only shipping costs and PayPal fee
- Jmneuv
- Location: DE
- Main keyboard: Phantomized QFR
- Main mouse: LX8 (mod)
- Favorite switch: 68g
- DT Pro Member: -
Prelim, your cap might not be at fault here. Did you check if the stem sits flush with the switch slider?
I made a post some time ago how to manage that. If you get the switch open from the top you could seat switch casing top and slider into the cap then click it down on the switch bottom as an alternative.
I'll see if i find my post.
edit: uh-oh it was on gh even:
block switch stem
I made a post some time ago how to manage that. If you get the switch open from the top you could seat switch casing top and slider into the cap then click it down on the switch bottom as an alternative.
I'll see if i find my post.
edit: uh-oh it was on gh even:
block switch stem
- Prelim
- Location: Portugal
- Main keyboard: GH60 rev.C, DS3 TKL, Dolch PAC, OG Cherry stuff
- Main mouse: DA Chroma
- Favorite switch: 65g custom Cherry/Gats linear and still ISO lover!
- DT Pro Member: -
@kbdfr soz for being such a noob but I still don't get how your cap don't have the same problem, since the stepped wall is there Can you explain?
@Jmneuv I just entered all the donor stem in switch slider before I glue it, as I said before.
@Jmneuv I just entered all the donor stem in switch slider before I glue it, as I said before.
Last edited by Prelim on 31 Jan 2015, 13:48, edited 1 time in total.
- kbdfr
- The Tiproman
- Location: Berlin, Germany
- Main keyboard: Tipro MID-QM-128A + two Tipro matrix modules
- Main mouse: Contour Rollermouse Pro
- Favorite switch: Cherry black
- DT Pro Member: 0010
No, I have no explanation, sorry.Prelim wrote: ↑[…] I still don't get how your cap dont have the same problem, since wall the stepped wall is there Can you explain? […]
As I wrote before, "the cap sits unnoticeably higher than it should, but that’s nothing you would notice unless you know".tlt wrote: ↑@kbdfr is that cap actually perfectly aligned on the keyboard? I would guess that it is ~1mm too high and ~0.5 mm to the right.
In any case it’s way less than 1mm.
As for a side offset, no, I can’t see any.