Keyboard oh shit moments ?
-
- Location: UK
- Main keyboard: Filco ZERO green alps, Model F 122 Terminal
- Main mouse: Ducky Secret / Roller Mouse Pro 1
- Favorite switch: MX Mount Topre / Model F Buckling
- DT Pro Member: 0167
reason i don't like it is simple transfer of knowladge. if you follow instructions for the OS you are running in this case centos ( arch does not work so well under hyper-v ) then even if the internal documentation gets lost or is none existent its easy to follow
the main thing i was pointing out is yeh don't open internal webpages to your home ip
the main thing i was pointing out is yeh don't open internal webpages to your home ip
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
I'm not happy about this one:
There was meant to be an Mµ cap in there, you thieving bastards Royal Mail! Sure, go sifting through our letters for coins and such (they love to take those) but if it's no use to you put it back the fuck in!!
There was meant to be an Mµ cap in there, you thieving bastards Royal Mail! Sure, go sifting through our letters for coins and such (they love to take those) but if it's no use to you put it back the fuck in!!
- seebart
- Offtopicthority Instigator
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Rotation
- Main mouse: Steelseries Sensei
- Favorite switch: IBM capacitive buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: 0061
- Contact:
they stole your Mµ cap?
SOB´s!
Tossed in thievery frustration.
SOB´s!
Tossed in thievery frustration.
Last edited by seebart on 13 Mar 2015, 15:31, edited 1 time in total.
- seebart
- Offtopicthority Instigator
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Rotation
- Main mouse: Steelseries Sensei
- Favorite switch: IBM capacitive buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: 0061
- Contact:
your likely to find another one though. They are not really rare.
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
I know. But around these parts they are.
Guess I should convince my other brother to live in Germany. That would be highly convenient now that I think about it…
Guess I should convince my other brother to live in Germany. That would be highly convenient now that I think about it…
-
- Location: UK
- Main keyboard: Filco ZERO green alps, Model F 122 Terminal
- Main mouse: Ducky Secret / Roller Mouse Pro 1
- Favorite switch: MX Mount Topre / Model F Buckling
- DT Pro Member: 0167
assholes
and if it was from overseas they would have changed you for the privilege.
I despise royal mail there service is terrible.
I think we should keep a royal mail postman in the basement of Deskthority towers for random beatings
and if it was from overseas they would have changed you for the privilege.
I despise royal mail there service is terrible.
I think we should keep a royal mail postman in the basement of Deskthority towers for random beatings
- seebart
- Offtopicthority Instigator
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Rotation
- Main mouse: Steelseries Sensei
- Favorite switch: IBM capacitive buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: 0061
- Contact:
no states is the better keyboard location overall. We do have a lot of Cherry´s available here though.
What about private mail carriers? Just as bad?
What about private mail carriers? Just as bad?
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
My opinions about Parcelforce are well known…
http://deskthority.net/search.php?keywo ... mit=Search
Besides them, the private carriers are mostly okay. Royal Mail itself is… uh… expensive, slow, unreliable and more than just occasionally thieving… but no worse than you'd expect of a privatised legal monopoly! Aie…
Anyway: here's the lesson kids. Use bubblemailers. Even for just one cap! The thieves prey on paper envelopes with a bulge in them.
http://deskthority.net/search.php?keywo ... mit=Search
Besides them, the private carriers are mostly okay. Royal Mail itself is… uh… expensive, slow, unreliable and more than just occasionally thieving… but no worse than you'd expect of a privatised legal monopoly! Aie…
Anyway: here's the lesson kids. Use bubblemailers. Even for just one cap! The thieves prey on paper envelopes with a bulge in them.
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
There'll be a next time! I'm always up to something. This was a buckling spring cap, incidentally. All my Fs and Ms are naked! So to speak…
-
- Location: UK
- Main keyboard: Filco ZERO green alps, Model F 122 Terminal
- Main mouse: Ducky Secret / Roller Mouse Pro 1
- Favorite switch: MX Mount Topre / Model F Buckling
- DT Pro Member: 0167
do DPD to bubble mailers , i have had nothing but good experiences with them in home and professional dealings
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
Royal Mail has a legal monopoly on all mail under a certain weight. It's literally against the law for other carriers to compete. Because democracy!
This was shitty but understandable when Royal Mail was a bumbling incompetent publicly owned service. But they're big boys now, all privatised as I remember, so their lasting privilege is sheer corruption.
This was shitty but understandable when Royal Mail was a bumbling incompetent publicly owned service. But they're big boys now, all privatised as I remember, so their lasting privilege is sheer corruption.
- seebart
- Offtopicthority Instigator
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Rotation
- Main mouse: Steelseries Sensei
- Favorite switch: IBM capacitive buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: 0061
- Contact:
Similair situation in Germany. Deutsche Post has the monopoly by ancient laws.Muirium wrote: ↑Royal Mail has a legal monopoly on all mail under a certain weight. It's literally against the law for other carriers to compete. Because democracy!
This was shitty but understandable when Royal Mail was a bumbling incompetent publicly owned service. But they're big boys now, all privatised as I remember, so their lasting privilege is sheer corruption.
- DanielT
- Un petit village gaulois d'Armorique…
- Location: Bucharest/Romania
- Main keyboard: Various custom 60%'s/HHKB
- Main mouse: MS Optical Mouse 200
- Favorite switch: Topre/Linear MX
- DT Pro Member: -
Those bastards! I prefer Romanian Post, they never steal, they just lose stuff, I can live with a lost package but receiving an opened and empty one it cuts the cake....Muirium wrote: ↑I'm not happy about this one:
There was meant to be an Mµ cap in there, you thieving bastards Royal Mail! Sure, go sifting through our letters for coins and such (they love to take those) but if it's no use to you put it back the fuck in!!
Once a guy from US sent me a bubble mailer where he forgot to stick the envelope lip, it traveled half across the world opened and nothing got lost, the envelope still had that protection slip over the glue...
As from now Royal Post is the worst service.
Maybe this is why I try and pack it well so that it's always hard to open the package without total damage of the packaging.
When I will ship your stuff I will make sure it's bullet proof
- Stabilized
- Location: Edinburgh
- DT Pro Member: -
My oh shit moment was when I was working on a bolt mod on an IBM Model M last week.
I was happily tightening up all the bolts on the other side of the metal plate (got about half way through), when I suddenly had an urge to check the stabilizer/spring alignment with the keycaps (even though I did this before putting the bolts in).
Turns out that I have mixed up the spring and stabilizer on the ISO return key! D'oh!
Anyone who has bolt modded knows how long it takes, and especially when you don't have a nut driver — using an adjustable spanner to hold the nuts still when screwing in the bolt. I gave up after this (for the time being), I don't think I am going to bother attempting it again before I pick up the appropriate nut driver (takes far too long with the spanner).
I was happily tightening up all the bolts on the other side of the metal plate (got about half way through), when I suddenly had an urge to check the stabilizer/spring alignment with the keycaps (even though I did this before putting the bolts in).
Turns out that I have mixed up the spring and stabilizer on the ISO return key! D'oh!
Anyone who has bolt modded knows how long it takes, and especially when you don't have a nut driver — using an adjustable spanner to hold the nuts still when screwing in the bolt. I gave up after this (for the time being), I don't think I am going to bother attempting it again before I pick up the appropriate nut driver (takes far too long with the spanner).
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
Ancient ninja trick:
(Search terms so I can find this easier in future: IBM stabiliser insert removal q-tip cotton bud.)
@DanielT: Thanks. I always appreciate good packaging! I've only seen theft from bare paper envelopes with obvious bulges in them like this, but there's always a first time.
@DanielT: Thanks. I always appreciate good packaging! I've only seen theft from bare paper envelopes with obvious bulges in them like this, but there's always a first time.
- Stabilized
- Location: Edinburgh
- DT Pro Member: -
Cool, thanks for the tip
For the enter key there are two sliders underneath it, one with nothing in it (where there should be a spring there) and one that has a spring (where there shouldn't be one); is there a way to swap the spring over without having to take the whole thing apart? Hopefully there is an applicable ancient Ninja trick for this one
For the enter key there are two sliders underneath it, one with nothing in it (where there should be a spring there) and one that has a spring (where there shouldn't be one); is there a way to swap the spring over without having to take the whole thing apart? Hopefully there is an applicable ancient Ninja trick for this one
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
Good point. There is the "chopstick method" for removing and installing springs. But you need to have a flipper (or hammer or whatever we're calling them) already in place down inside the barrel. The chopstick trick (I actually use a whittled matchstick) is an excellent shortcut for swapping out bent old springs, but it won't work for you here.
Get yer spinner!
Get yer spinner!
-
- Location: UK
- Main keyboard: Filco ZERO green alps, Model F 122 Terminal
- Main mouse: Ducky Secret / Roller Mouse Pro 1
- Favorite switch: MX Mount Topre / Model F Buckling
- DT Pro Member: 0167
I use a cut down precision screwdriver to do that
If you can tell me where that magnet on the side of it is from I will be very impressed. I will give you a clue its computer related.
If you can tell me where that magnet on the side of it is from I will be very impressed. I will give you a clue its computer related.
-
- Location: UK
- Main keyboard: Filco ZERO green alps, Model F 122 Terminal
- Main mouse: Ducky Secret / Roller Mouse Pro 1
- Favorite switch: MX Mount Topre / Model F Buckling
- DT Pro Member: 0167
Muirium wrote: ↑MacBook lid?
correct
the white 06 i have had 2 of them each side , i took one out each side to stop it cracking the keyboard again
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
Hmm, I have one of those 2006 MacBooks lying about, recently retired. Easy job to whip them out?
I'd like my rMBP's display to be a bit less forceful as well, not because of damage but because I can't open the screen one handed, always have to hold the base of the machine once the screen's just high enough up to slip a finger in. But that's all about hinge friction rather than the magnets.
One thing I envy the MacBook Airs for: that silky smooth single finger friendly screen opening of theirs. But those non Retina, non IPS screens look better when they're off!
I'd like my rMBP's display to be a bit less forceful as well, not because of damage but because I can't open the screen one handed, always have to hold the base of the machine once the screen's just high enough up to slip a finger in. But that's all about hinge friction rather than the magnets.
One thing I envy the MacBook Airs for: that silky smooth single finger friendly screen opening of theirs. But those non Retina, non IPS screens look better when they're off!
-
- Location: UK
- Main keyboard: Filco ZERO green alps, Model F 122 Terminal
- Main mouse: Ducky Secret / Roller Mouse Pro 1
- Favorite switch: MX Mount Topre / Model F Buckling
- DT Pro Member: 0167
its a northgate omnikey Ultra T
http://www.northgate-keyboard-repair.com/UltraT.jpg
Alps white
Mu, just need to un-click the bezle around the monitor and pull them out they are glued in
http://www.northgate-keyboard-repair.com/UltraT.jpg
Alps white
Mu, just need to un-click the bezle around the monitor and pull them out they are glued in
- scottc
- ☃
- Location: Remote locations in Europe
- Main keyboard: GH60-HASRO 62g Nixies, HHKB Pro1 HS, Novatouch
- Main mouse: Steelseries Rival 300
- Favorite switch: Nixdorf 'Soft Touch' MX Black
- DT Pro Member: -
Nice, thanks!andrewjoy wrote: ↑its a northgate omnikey Ultra T
http://www.northgate-keyboard-repair.com/UltraT.jpg
Alps white
- alh84001
- v.001
- Location: EU-HR-ZG
- Main keyboard: unsaver
- Main mouse: logitech m305 / apple trackpad
- Favorite switch: BS
- DT Pro Member: -
I went on to completely disassemble the omnikey 101, including PCB and plate. All but one of the bolts holding the PCB and plate together were clean and were easily unscrewed. I thought that using soldering iron I would easily clean the solder from the last one and unscrew it. Not so:
I used some metal tools to try and cut it on the side. I only succeeded in cutting some traces. Luckily there is still continuity on the pins these traces connect. However, I am still stuck with trying to get this bolt off. Any suggestions?
I used some metal tools to try and cut it on the side. I only succeeded in cutting some traces. Luckily there is still continuity on the pins these traces connect. However, I am still stuck with trying to get this bolt off. Any suggestions?