I choose mx black! but what now?
- Sev
- Location: Austria
- Main keyboard: Raptor K1
- DT Pro Member: -
After testing the most common cherry switches, buckling spring and topre I decided for myself that mx black I like the most.
Personally I don't know how to mod a keyboard or anything but I would also like to try all the variants of mx black. With different gold springs etc. Is there a way I can test that?
Personally I don't know how to mod a keyboard or anything but I would also like to try all the variants of mx black. With different gold springs etc. Is there a way I can test that?
- Khers
- ⧓
- Location: Sweden
- Main keyboard: LZ CLSh
- Main mouse: Logitech MX Ergo
- Favorite switch: Buckling Springs | Topre | Nixdorf Black
- DT Pro Member: 0087
Your best bet would be to get an old Cherry G80 which has PCB-mounted switches that you can easily pop the top off of. Thus switch modding, like changing springs and the like, is quite easy. Custom springs can be sourced from sprit.
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- let's go
- Location: Spain
- Main keyboard: Realforce TKL/HHKB (both 45g/JIS)
- Main mouse: CST L-Trac CST2545-5W
- Favorite switch: Topre
- DT Pro Member: -
As Khers says, a g80-3000 is the easiest to mod. This is a black one for example. I've got the clear switch mode and this is my experience:
Pros:
- Not expensive
- Very easy to mod
- PBT keys
Cons:
- Design
I personally don't like the spacebar upstroke, is the thing that annoys me the most on this keyboard.
Pros:
- Not expensive
- Very easy to mod
- PBT keys
Cons:
- Design
I personally don't like the spacebar upstroke, is the thing that annoys me the most on this keyboard.
- Khers
- ⧓
- Location: Sweden
- Main keyboard: LZ CLSh
- Main mouse: Logitech MX Ergo
- Favorite switch: Buckling Springs | Topre | Nixdorf Black
- DT Pro Member: 0087
Raptors are MX Blacks afaik and pcb mount, but with some weird plastic stuff around the switches that you need to get rid of in order to pop the tops off
- HzFaq
- Location: Windsor, UK
- Main keyboard: Phantom
- Main mouse: CST L-Trac
- Favorite switch: MX Clears
- DT Pro Member: -
Indeed. They are one of the better Cherry boards though IMO, I love my Raptor.Khers wrote: ↑Raptors are MX Blacks afaik and pcb mount, but with some weird plastic stuff around the switches that you need to get rid of in order to pop the tops off
- Redmaus
- Gotta start somewhere
- Location: Near Dallas, Texas
- Main keyboard: Unsaver | 3276 | Kingsaver
- Main mouse: Kensington Slimblade
- Favorite switch: Capacitative Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
I have some vintage mx blacks FS currently if anyone is interested. I will be making a thread in the market place today. Be sure to be checking the market subforum at around 4 or 5! US central time.
- kbdfr
- The Tiproman
- Location: Berlin, Germany
- Main keyboard: Tipro MID-QM-128A + two Tipro matrix modules
- Main mouse: Contour Rollermouse Pro
- Favorite switch: Cherry black
- DT Pro Member: 0010
On the other hand, it seems quite a shame to damage a keyboard with a nice black case, NKRO and USB cable when a used G80-1800 (same layout, beige, -KRO, PS/2) can be had for less than 10€ shipped in Europe.
I have several, if you are interested. Which national layout is your Raptor K1?
Sev: http://deskthority.net/help-f53/please- ... t1386.html
I have several, if you are interested. Which national layout is your Raptor K1?
Sev: http://deskthority.net/help-f53/please- ... t1386.html
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- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: KBC Poker MX Red
- Main mouse: Logitech MX Revolution
- Favorite switch: MX Red
- DT Pro Member: -
Oh yeah, the K1 has those plastic blocks around each switch... so it's about the same as if they had used a plate as the prevent the tops from opening in the same way... would have to desolder all the switch and pull them off. Probably better to find one of those €5 G80-1800 basic models, or maybe see if you can find a cheap price G80-1000/1500 and use that for your experiments.
- seebart
- Offtopicthority Instigator
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Rotation
- Main mouse: Steelseries Sensei
- Favorite switch: IBM capacitive buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: 0061
- Contact:
- scottc
- ☃
- Location: Remote locations in Europe
- Main keyboard: GH60-HASRO 62g Nixies, HHKB Pro1 HS, Novatouch
- Main mouse: Steelseries Rival 300
- Favorite switch: Nixdorf 'Soft Touch' MX Black
- DT Pro Member: -
- seebart
- Offtopicthority Instigator
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Rotation
- Main mouse: Steelseries Sensei
- Favorite switch: IBM capacitive buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: 0061
- Contact:
- Stabilized
- Location: Edinburgh
- DT Pro Member: -
Wait, what? I have a K1 (the DS version) and it's just a regular pcb mounted cherry board.IvanIvanovich wrote:Oh yeah, the K1 has those plastic blocks around each switch... so it's about the same as if they had used a plate as the prevent the tops from opening in the same way... would have to desolder all the switch and pull them off. Probably better to find one of those €5 G80-1800 basic models, or maybe see if you can find a cheap price G80-1000/1500 and use that for your experiments.
Already swapped out the stock black springs for gold 65g ones. I love the keyboard, just wish it was Winkeyless.
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- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: KBC Poker MX Red
- Main mouse: Logitech MX Revolution
- Favorite switch: MX Red
- DT Pro Member: -
Some have these little plastic shims around the switch base, prevent opening.
- shreebles
- Finally 60%
- Location: Cologne, Germany
- Main keyboard: FaceW 45g Silent Red /NerD60 MX Red
- Main mouse: Logitech G303 / GPro (home) MX Anywhere 2 (work)
- Favorite switch: Silent Red, Old Browns, Buckling Spring,
- DT Pro Member: 0094
Yeah mine didn't have them either, which I don't mind
But CeesA told me about those pesky little things. He said he just uses a sharp knife and a pair of small pliers, and got rid of them on several K1s already.
I use the G80 118000 now - it's only one row wider than the 1800, I modded it with MX blacks, its winkeyless with 1.5u mods and a 7u spacebar - that means Cherry Doubleshots fit perfectly
It feels a bit more solid than the 1800's, too. No tabs, but a lot of screws.
BUT the wonky layout means your F-row is essentially botched and you have to reach a lot further just to hit ESC and the navigation cluster. At least the position of the numpad right above the trackball is perfect. It can easily replace the functionality of the PGup, down, home etc. keys.
But CeesA told me about those pesky little things. He said he just uses a sharp knife and a pair of small pliers, and got rid of them on several K1s already.
sigh... same.Stabilized wrote: ↑ Already swapped out the stock black springs for gold 65g ones. I love the keyboard, just wish it was Winkeyless.
I use the G80 118000 now - it's only one row wider than the 1800, I modded it with MX blacks, its winkeyless with 1.5u mods and a 7u spacebar - that means Cherry Doubleshots fit perfectly
It feels a bit more solid than the 1800's, too. No tabs, but a lot of screws.
BUT the wonky layout means your F-row is essentially botched and you have to reach a lot further just to hit ESC and the navigation cluster. At least the position of the numpad right above the trackball is perfect. It can easily replace the functionality of the PGup, down, home etc. keys.
- vsev
- Location: France
- Main keyboard: G80-1861HAF/1987' M
- Main mouse: large scroll wheel ones
- Favorite switch: mx blue/ Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
Love the WKL 1800 too a Goupil one is my daily, really wish it could be nkro.. but don't know if 1800 WKL nkro were ever made.. I mean without trackball/pad just regular ones.Only way is to cut/mod one pcb of a 3000 or so to fit regular 1800 case, many of this mod have been made already I think, however quite serious one !
- photekq
- Cherry Picker
- Location: United Kingdom
- Main keyboard: Various Cherry Corp keyboards
- Main mouse: Razer Deathadder (1st gen)
- Favorite switch: Nixdorf 'Soft Touch' MX Black (55g springs)
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
Not all Raptors have those plastic skirt things. Mine don't!
vsev, you could maybe try to find a Leeku 1800 PCB It has full NKRO through PS2 or USB.
vsev, you could maybe try to find a Leeku 1800 PCB It has full NKRO through PS2 or USB.
- HzFaq
- Location: Windsor, UK
- Main keyboard: Phantom
- Main mouse: CST L-Trac
- Favorite switch: MX Clears
- DT Pro Member: -
Do the Leeku PCB's support ISO?
I modded one of my Raptors to have 1.5u mods on the left hand side, that was pretty cool comprimise I found. I'm not sure where that went now that I think about it...
I modded one of my Raptors to have 1.5u mods on the left hand side, that was pretty cool comprimise I found. I'm not sure where that went now that I think about it...
- photekq
- Cherry Picker
- Location: United Kingdom
- Main keyboard: Various Cherry Corp keyboards
- Main mouse: Razer Deathadder (1st gen)
- Favorite switch: Nixdorf 'Soft Touch' MX Black (55g springs)
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
Ah, bollocks. I forgot about that. They don't support ISO
- scottc
- ☃
- Location: Remote locations in Europe
- Main keyboard: GH60-HASRO 62g Nixies, HHKB Pro1 HS, Novatouch
- Main mouse: Steelseries Rival 300
- Favorite switch: Nixdorf 'Soft Touch' MX Black
- DT Pro Member: -
How did you do this?HzFaq wrote: ↑Do the Leeku PCB's support ISO?
I modded one of my Raptors to have 1.5u mods on the left hand side, that was pretty cool comprimise I found. I'm not sure where that went now that I think about it...
- HzFaq
- Location: Windsor, UK
- Main keyboard: Phantom
- Main mouse: CST L-Trac
- Favorite switch: MX Clears
- DT Pro Member: -
Drill and an old winkeyless PCB to use as a template.
Similar principal to that, the hardest part was repairing the traces I drilled through, I ended up having to do a load of handwired repairs to get the board up and running again.
I'm sure I posted pictures of it, but looking back can't seem to find them...
Similar principal to that, the hardest part was repairing the traces I drilled through, I ended up having to do a load of handwired repairs to get the board up and running again.
I'm sure I posted pictures of it, but looking back can't seem to find them...
- photekq
- Cherry Picker
- Location: United Kingdom
- Main keyboard: Various Cherry Corp keyboards
- Main mouse: Razer Deathadder (1st gen)
- Favorite switch: Nixdorf 'Soft Touch' MX Black (55g springs)
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
I will do that to my 5000.. One day..
I've been putting off buying a drill press for about 6 months
I've been putting off buying a drill press for about 6 months
- photekq
- Cherry Picker
- Location: United Kingdom
- Main keyboard: Various Cherry Corp keyboards
- Main mouse: Razer Deathadder (1st gen)
- Favorite switch: Nixdorf 'Soft Touch' MX Black (55g springs)
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
Big risk, big reward. Better spending £250 and drilling it to ANSI than spending $750 on an ANSI one!
I would take all the necessary precautions, of course. I'd get a guide laser cut.
I would take all the necessary precautions, of course. I'd get a guide laser cut.
- HzFaq
- Location: Windsor, UK
- Main keyboard: Phantom
- Main mouse: CST L-Trac
- Favorite switch: MX Clears
- DT Pro Member: -
True, fair point.
I wasn't particularly clever about the way I did it to the Raptor; using a blunt drill bit in a hand drill between my legs, drilling through a hacked up PCB as a guide .
Your way sounds way more sensible.
I wasn't particularly clever about the way I did it to the Raptor; using a blunt drill bit in a hand drill between my legs, drilling through a hacked up PCB as a guide .
Your way sounds way more sensible.