IBM Model M (SSK) - How many broken rivets until bolt-mod?
- hammelgammler
- Vintage
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: IBM Model F Unsaver
- Main mouse: G-Wolves Skoll
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring (Model F)
- DT Pro Member: -
Hey,
i just received a few SSK's from Cindy, kind of quick from America to Germany.
Just a quick question, after how many broken rivets you should do a bolt-mod?...
There are three SSK's, one has 9 broken rivets, another one 11 + a damaged spring, and the last one 7 + 1 spring felt off from the hammer.
On all of them a few keys doesn't clicked, a few stucked when pressed down and from one ESC key the spring is damaged.
I could steal some springs/hammers from my full-size Model M, which would then also need a bolt-mod and two springs to work again...
Any advices? That are my first Model M's which going to be restored.
Best regards,
David
i just received a few SSK's from Cindy, kind of quick from America to Germany.
Just a quick question, after how many broken rivets you should do a bolt-mod?...
There are three SSK's, one has 9 broken rivets, another one 11 + a damaged spring, and the last one 7 + 1 spring felt off from the hammer.
On all of them a few keys doesn't clicked, a few stucked when pressed down and from one ESC key the spring is damaged.
I could steal some springs/hammers from my full-size Model M, which would then also need a bolt-mod and two springs to work again...
Any advices? That are my first Model M's which going to be restored.
Best regards,
David
- chzel
- Location: Athens, Greece
- Main keyboard: Phantom
- Main mouse: Mionix Avior 7000
- Favorite switch: Beamspring, BS, Vintage Blacks.
- DT Pro Member: 0086
My SSK is up to 27 broken rivets and yet it works perfectly!
Regarding the ones that don't click, remove the cap, tilt the board back, and reinsert. Sometimes they just need re-seating.
Regarding the ones that don't click, remove the cap, tilt the board back, and reinsert. Sometimes they just need re-seating.
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
All depends on feel. You've got several Model Ms to compare between there: which ones feel best, and where?
Bolt mods are a lot of trouble. Well, the one I tried was! Other people swear by them, though. Also: springs can be replaced by the chopstick trick. (Anyone got a video?) Even stab supports can be pulled with a similar technique:
Chzel's quite right about non-clicking springs. Try re-seating, from different angles. If you see a bent spring: replace it.
Bolt mods are a lot of trouble. Well, the one I tried was! Other people swear by them, though. Also: springs can be replaced by the chopstick trick. (Anyone got a video?) Even stab supports can be pulled with a similar technique:
Chzel's quite right about non-clicking springs. Try re-seating, from different angles. If you see a bent spring: replace it.
- Redmaus
- Gotta start somewhere
- Location: Near Dallas, Texas
- Main keyboard: Unsaver | 3276 | Kingsaver
- Main mouse: Kensington Slimblade
- Favorite switch: Capacitative Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
I like that method of taking the stabilizer insert out. I have done it a couple of times with a flat head screwdriver and caused some dents on the outside edge of the barrel
- hammelgammler
- Vintage
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: IBM Model F Unsaver
- Main mouse: G-Wolves Skoll
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring (Model F)
- DT Pro Member: -
Thank you for your answers.
Unfortunately many keys on all SSKs feel a bit sandy like...
My full size Model M in comparison is butter smooth though.
Also I tried the spring swap with the chopstick method and it seems I'm too bad for this...
Either the key don't click after a swap, feels soo bad, or stucks...
To the bolt-mod, I know it's time consuming, but that's no problem, it would be more important how hard it is...
There's a raw bolt-mod or a nut-and-bolt-mod.
Am I right that with nuts the drilled holes doesn't have to be extremely perfect?
So it would be like: drill holes, put screw through holes, put everything together, put a metal washer on the screws, tighten everything with nuts.
Thanks!
Unfortunately many keys on all SSKs feel a bit sandy like...
My full size Model M in comparison is butter smooth though.
Also I tried the spring swap with the chopstick method and it seems I'm too bad for this...
Either the key don't click after a swap, feels soo bad, or stucks...
To the bolt-mod, I know it's time consuming, but that's no problem, it would be more important how hard it is...
There's a raw bolt-mod or a nut-and-bolt-mod.
Am I right that with nuts the drilled holes doesn't have to be extremely perfect?
So it would be like: drill holes, put screw through holes, put everything together, put a metal washer on the screws, tighten everything with nuts.
Thanks!
- vivalarevolución
- formerly prdlm2009
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: IBM Beam spring
- Main mouse: Kangaroo
- Favorite switch: beam spring
- DT Pro Member: 0097
I bolt mod every Model M that comes my way because every rivet will break eventually. And somebody has to do it. But that's just me. Plus, they feel much better with a bolt mod.
- idollar
- i$
- Location: Germany (Frankfurt area)
- Main keyboard: IBM F or M
- Favorite switch: BS
- DT Pro Member: -
Bolt modding does not take as many time as people thinks. Actually, once you have the tools and the screws (use screws !) it can be done really fast. It helps in cleaning and the result is just perfect.prdlm2009 wrote: ↑I bolt mod every Model M that comes my way because every rivet will break eventually. And somebody has to do it. But that's just me. Plus, they feel much better with a bolt mod.
In my case, if (I cannot clean the board or keys do not work correctly) and (the board does not have historical value), it gets modded.
- seebart
- Offtopicthority Instigator
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Rotation
- Main mouse: Steelseries Sensei
- Favorite switch: IBM capacitive buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: 0061
- Contact:
I've never attempted a bolt / screw mod but I can say typing feel is great on my SSK which Madhias screw modded.
- hammelgammler
- Vintage
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: IBM Model F Unsaver
- Main mouse: G-Wolves Skoll
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring (Model F)
- DT Pro Member: -
Like i said, time is not really an issue for me, even if one SSK would take a whole day.
As the only advantage with screws is that it's faster i will definitly do the nut-and-bolt-mod.
As i mentioned, it seems like:
bolt-mod (screws)
advantage: faster, lower cost (only screws)
disadvantage: more precise drilling because of screws, not easy to open it after the mod (ISO mod)
nut-and-bolt-mod
advantage: holes doesn't need to be as precise, more solid?, easy to open
disadvantage: slower, higher cost
As i don't really know how precise i can drill with a standard drill, all speaks for the nut-and-bolt-mod for me.
Can somebody confirm that the holes doesn't need to be as precise? Seems logic to be though, as the holes are only needed to put the bolt's through?
As the only advantage with screws is that it's faster i will definitly do the nut-and-bolt-mod.
As i mentioned, it seems like:
bolt-mod (screws)
advantage: faster, lower cost (only screws)
disadvantage: more precise drilling because of screws, not easy to open it after the mod (ISO mod)
nut-and-bolt-mod
advantage: holes doesn't need to be as precise, more solid?, easy to open
disadvantage: slower, higher cost
As i don't really know how precise i can drill with a standard drill, all speaks for the nut-and-bolt-mod for me.
Can somebody confirm that the holes doesn't need to be as precise? Seems logic to be though, as the holes are only needed to put the bolt's through?
- Redmaus
- Gotta start somewhere
- Location: Near Dallas, Texas
- Main keyboard: Unsaver | 3276 | Kingsaver
- Main mouse: Kensington Slimblade
- Favorite switch: Capacitative Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
I recommend a nut and bolt mod because it is easy to fine tune how tight the bolts are.
- Madhias
- BS TORPE
- Location: Wien, Austria
- Main keyboard: HHKB
- Main mouse: Wacom tablet
- Favorite switch: Topre and Buckelings
- DT Pro Member: 0064
- Contact:
You got 3 SSKs? That's a big loot!
- hammelgammler
- Vintage
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: IBM Model F Unsaver
- Main mouse: G-Wolves Skoll
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring (Model F)
- DT Pro Member: -
Yeah three SSK's. But not for me alone.
One is for my girlfriend and the other one for a friend of mine.
One is for my girlfriend and the other one for a friend of mine.
- Khers
- ⧓
- Location: Sweden
- Main keyboard: LZ CLSh
- Main mouse: Logitech MX Ergo
- Favorite switch: Buckling Springs | Topre | Nixdorf Black
- DT Pro Member: 0087
I have a nut-and-bolt modded SSK (not done by me) and I would strongly advice against it. Find some nice counter sunk screws and perform a screw mod instead. The bolt inevitably takes up some space inside the case. Space that isn't really there...
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
I've got three now too. I'll see about selling one eventually. Only need one for use and the other NIB!
As for bolt mods: I went the whole bolt route on the M122 and it wasn't smart. I found accuracy difficult, and the bolts very tedious to equalise in tension so it would feel much good. Then came the fight of squeezing on the case! Probably better going the other route. Or any route, really, besides!
As for bolt mods: I went the whole bolt route on the M122 and it wasn't smart. I found accuracy difficult, and the bolts very tedious to equalise in tension so it would feel much good. Then came the fight of squeezing on the case! Probably better going the other route. Or any route, really, besides!
- fohat
- Elder Messenger
- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee, USA
- Main keyboard: Model F 122-key terminal
- Main mouse: Microsoft Optical Mouse
- Favorite switch: Model F Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0158
The first time, it will take several hours and the holes may not be very accurate.
After doing it about 3-4 times it will be much easier and faster.
- Redmaus
- Gotta start somewhere
- Location: Near Dallas, Texas
- Main keyboard: Unsaver | 3276 | Kingsaver
- Main mouse: Kensington Slimblade
- Favorite switch: Capacitative Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
I just grab a file and trim the screws that don't allow it to fit.Khers wrote: ↑I have a nut-and-bolt modded SSK (not done by me) and I would strongly advice against it. Find some nice counter sunk screws and perform a screw mod instead. The bolt inevitably takes up some space inside the case. Space that isn't really there...
- idollar
- i$
- Location: Germany (Frankfurt area)
- Main keyboard: IBM F or M
- Favorite switch: BS
- DT Pro Member: -
I use a dremel press to do my holes.hammelgammler wrote: ↑ As i don't really know how precise i can drill with a standard drill, all speaks for the nut-and-bolt-mod for me.
Can somebody confirm that the holes doesn't need to be as precise? Seems logic to be though, as the holes are only needed to put the bolt's through?
Check this very nice thread with all the information that you need, including the type of screws that you can get in Germany.
Thanks once more to Madhias
Do not miss this important information:
If you are afraid of doing yourself PM me. I will work on my brand-old SSK from Cyndy in a couple of weeks. I could do yours also ... I live in Germany.With the screws that I copied from Madhias, I had to use a 1,5m hole.
When I used nut/bolts I used a 2mm hole.
- Madhias
- BS TORPE
- Location: Wien, Austria
- Main keyboard: HHKB
- Main mouse: Wacom tablet
- Favorite switch: Topre and Buckelings
- DT Pro Member: 0064
- Contact:
Also checkout Phosophorglows video, it is very inspiring, has nice music and lots of great tips & tricks!
- Redmaus
- Gotta start somewhere
- Location: Near Dallas, Texas
- Main keyboard: Unsaver | 3276 | Kingsaver
- Main mouse: Kensington Slimblade
- Favorite switch: Capacitative Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
Where to find a bunch of this music? And that is an amazing vid.
- hammelgammler
- Vintage
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: IBM Model F Unsaver
- Main mouse: G-Wolves Skoll
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring (Model F)
- DT Pro Member: -
Hey ho,
I finally got all of them in a pretty good shape.
No keys are stuck anymore.
Just a quick question, the spacebar on my full size Model M doesn't want to work in my SSK. Like if it doesn't fit properly...
Does someone know what the issue could be?
I finally got all of them in a pretty good shape.
No keys are stuck anymore.
Just a quick question, the spacebar on my full size Model M doesn't want to work in my SSK. Like if it doesn't fit properly...
Does someone know what the issue could be?
- fohat
- Elder Messenger
- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee, USA
- Main keyboard: Model F 122-key terminal
- Main mouse: Microsoft Optical Mouse
- Favorite switch: Model F Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0158
Is it seated properly, and are the stabilizer wires comfortable in their tabs?hammelgammler wrote: ↑Hey ho,
I finally got all of them in a pretty good shape.
No keys are stuck anymore.
Just a quick question, the spacebar on my full size Model M doesn't want to work in my SSK. Like if it doesn't fit properly...
Does someone know what the issue could be?