What Solder Station to get?
- Redmaus
- Gotta start somewhere
- Location: Near Dallas, Texas
- Main keyboard: Unsaver | 3276 | Kingsaver
- Main mouse: Kensington Slimblade
- Favorite switch: Capacitative Buckling Spring
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I have been needing one for quite a while. All I have been using is an old plug and use one without and voltage settings and the tip is messed up and everything.
Vacuum desoldering pump would be GREAT since my thumb press and release one is tiring after extended use and does not work well for intricate electronics.
I have heard Hakko is good and my budget is around 200$.
Thanks for the help yall
Vacuum desoldering pump would be GREAT since my thumb press and release one is tiring after extended use and does not work well for intricate electronics.
I have heard Hakko is good and my budget is around 200$.
Thanks for the help yall
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- Location: Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam
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I'd go with Goot, PX-501 or 601 I cant remember, but they're from Japan too, Hakko is just everywhere and besides Goot's PX is all in white, which is cool.
- Redmaus
- Gotta start somewhere
- Location: Near Dallas, Texas
- Main keyboard: Unsaver | 3276 | Kingsaver
- Main mouse: Kensington Slimblade
- Favorite switch: Capacitative Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
What?bazh wrote: ↑Oh shit, stupid Tapatalk, automatically create a new account and shit
Got it, I'll check that out in a minute.bazhvn wrote: ↑I'd go with Goot, PX-501 or 601 I cant remember, but they're from Japan too, Hakko is just everywhere and besides Goot's PX is all in white, which is cool.
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- DT Pro Member: -
Getting a proper* desoldering station for under $200 is fairly difficult second hand, especially when combined with good soldering. New is pretty much impossible. If you just want a soldering iron, getting one used for around $100 is possible, however. For example:
The handpiece +
the station itself +
how to control the temperature on it +
some tips = win.
TD100 is my favorite handpiece, only rivaled by the JBC ones.
* My parameters for proper mean something from Pace, Metcal, JBC, etc.
The handpiece +
the station itself +
how to control the temperature on it +
some tips = win.
TD100 is my favorite handpiece, only rivaled by the JBC ones.
* My parameters for proper mean something from Pace, Metcal, JBC, etc.
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- Location: UK
- Main keyboard: Filco ZERO green alps, Model F 122 Terminal
- Main mouse: Ducky Secret / Roller Mouse Pro 1
- Favorite switch: MX Mount Topre / Model F Buckling
- DT Pro Member: 0167
its all about the tips , even if you get a clone get genuine tips .
And dont use lead free solder , its crap.
And dont use lead free solder , its crap.
- Redmaus
- Gotta start somewhere
- Location: Near Dallas, Texas
- Main keyboard: Unsaver | 3276 | Kingsaver
- Main mouse: Kensington Slimblade
- Favorite switch: Capacitative Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
Any leads on a good full desoldering station? The new hakko one is like 500$...
- Redmaus
- Gotta start somewhere
- Location: Near Dallas, Texas
- Main keyboard: Unsaver | 3276 | Kingsaver
- Main mouse: Kensington Slimblade
- Favorite switch: Capacitative Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
What price? Maybe we could work something out.
BTW I looked at your other pics and nice collection man.
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
Got a suggestion for the US based software engineer who would like to warm up his hardware skills again, and rather buy new and buy once? My brother's a snob too, you see. Although the higher the price, the more convincing he'll take. I could use a good lab when I'm over his place again…
- chzel
- Location: Athens, Greece
- Main keyboard: Phantom
- Main mouse: Mionix Avior 7000
- Favorite switch: Beamspring, BS, Vintage Blacks.
- DT Pro Member: 0086
No suggestions until the Unicomp stuff is shipped!
Anything from Hakko, Weller, Antex, JBC should be more than fine. No need to go overboard, esp. for non-professional use.
I have a "Solder Peak SP-60D" station I got from TME and it's perfect for the tasks it faces.
Anything from Hakko, Weller, Antex, JBC should be more than fine. No need to go overboard, esp. for non-professional use.
I have a "Solder Peak SP-60D" station I got from TME and it's perfect for the tasks it faces.
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
Cool. Specific suggestions are best, because I'm ignorant about this stuff and could really use some experience on a quality iron to learn any better!
My return luggage after the holidays will be made of Unicomp caps…
My return luggage after the holidays will be made of Unicomp caps…
- Redmaus
- Gotta start somewhere
- Location: Near Dallas, Texas
- Main keyboard: Unsaver | 3276 | Kingsaver
- Main mouse: Kensington Slimblade
- Favorite switch: Capacitative Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
Yeah the problem is getting a desolder station too. That would save me LOADS of time.
- bazh
- Location: Finland
- DT Pro Member: -
Yep, lead-free's hard to work with and leaves ugly solder point. I prefer the 62 solder from Kester, they're beautiful with 2% silver inside, love them.andrewjoy wrote: ↑its all about the tips , even if you get a clone get genuine tips .
And dont use lead free solder , its crap.
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- Location: UK
- Main keyboard: Filco ZERO green alps, Model F 122 Terminal
- Main mouse: Ducky Secret / Roller Mouse Pro 1
- Favorite switch: MX Mount Topre / Model F Buckling
- DT Pro Member: 0167
i have always wondered why they add 2% silver. I cannot say how good it is as i have never tired it.
I always go for this one
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Solder-60-Hi-Ac ... sin+solder
Works wonders.
I have a hakko 936 clone , its one of the nicer ones as i took it apart to check for safety! With genuine tips its good enough or home use.
I always go for this one
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Solder-60-Hi-Ac ... sin+solder
Works wonders.
I have a hakko 936 clone , its one of the nicer ones as i took it apart to check for safety! With genuine tips its good enough or home use.
- 002
- Topre Enthusiast
- Location: Australia
- Main keyboard: Realforce & Libertouch
- Main mouse: Logitech G Pro Wireless
- Favorite switch: Topre
- DT Pro Member: 0002
Might have something to do with silver being a noble metal? Could also be because silver has good thermal properties which is why it's sometimes used for thermal pastes and compounds for CPU/GPU heatsinks?