IBM 107 4707 - my solution to a handicap keyboard (no legs)
- idollar
- i$
- Location: Germany (Frankfurt area)
- Main keyboard: IBM F or M
- Favorite switch: BS
- DT Pro Member: -
Hi,
I cannot type with handicap (= no legs) keyboards.
So when I received my brand old 107 I had to find a solution. Here it is: a rubber pencil, cut in the middle (or at the height that you like) with a hole in the middle to hold the screw. The head of the screw is forced into the hole.
The rubber will not let you keyboard move in the desk.
In my opinion, a nice and simple solution.
Note: I have to remove some metal inserts in the board also. If you follow this process, keep them save. You may like to install the original feet in the future.
i$
I cannot type with handicap (= no legs) keyboards.
So when I received my brand old 107 I had to find a solution. Here it is: a rubber pencil, cut in the middle (or at the height that you like) with a hole in the middle to hold the screw. The head of the screw is forced into the hole.
The rubber will not let you keyboard move in the desk.
In my opinion, a nice and simple solution.
Note: I have to remove some metal inserts in the board also. If you follow this process, keep them save. You may like to install the original feet in the future.
i$
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Last edited by idollar on 20 Mar 2015, 20:10, edited 1 time in total.
- seebart
- Offtopicthority Instigator
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Rotation
- Main mouse: Steelseries Sensei
- Favorite switch: IBM capacitive buckling spring
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very creative idollar! I wonder if this would work on my 3104?
- idollar
- i$
- Location: Germany (Frankfurt area)
- Main keyboard: IBM F or M
- Favorite switch: BS
- DT Pro Member: -
No, it does not. Perhaps because I have chosen a big rubber.snoopy wrote: ↑nice solution. doesn't it feel a bit 'wobbly'?
I love it as it is ...But for me, the real problem with this board is the position of the mouse if you're right handed...
so... next mod: cut the numpad?
- idollar
- i$
- Location: Germany (Frankfurt area)
- Main keyboard: IBM F or M
- Favorite switch: BS
- DT Pro Member: -
I do not know the 3104 (unfortunately).seebart wrote: ↑very creative idollar! I wonder if this would work on my 3104?
If it has holes in through the case, I suppose it will also work.
As I said before, get a "solid" and big rubber. Cut it with a normal sharp cutter. Make a hole with an long screw driver, but check that it is perpendicular in both, x and y axis. This initial hole will guide the screw when you insert it. At the end, force the head of the screw inside.
The complete process took me 15min max. I did it before leaving to work after my daily morning coffee and I arrived on time I could not stand the flat typing anymore !
Cheers
- Redmaus
- Gotta start somewhere
- Location: Near Dallas, Texas
- Main keyboard: Unsaver | 3276 | Kingsaver
- Main mouse: Kensington Slimblade
- Favorite switch: Capacitative Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
4704 is such a nice board. I am going to get one after I find an Unsaver. Has anyone else beside 0100010 put a solenoid inside their 4704?
- Touch_It
- Location: Nebraska, United States.
- Main keyboard: Unicomp Classic USB 103 key (work) IBM F 4704 107
- Main mouse: Logitech g502 Proteus Core
- Favorite switch: Buckling spring (yet to try Beam Spring)
- DT Pro Member: -
Not yet. I bought a solenoid. Now I need to man up and buy a driver board for it from Tom before he runs out of parts to make one.Redmaus wrote: ↑4704 is such a nice board. I am going to get one after I find an Unsaver. Has anyone else beside 0100010 put a solenoid inside their 4704?
Edit. I should say none that I know of, but I plan to.
- Redmaus
- Gotta start somewhere
- Location: Near Dallas, Texas
- Main keyboard: Unsaver | 3276 | Kingsaver
- Main mouse: Kensington Slimblade
- Favorite switch: Capacitative Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
I need both. So I need a driver board and a solenoid? Where could I find these? I don't have a 4704 yet, but when I get one I want to add a solenoid.Touch_It wrote: ↑Not yet. I bought a solenoid. Now I need to man up and buy a driver board for it from Tom before he runs out of parts to make one.Redmaus wrote: ↑4704 is such a nice board. I am going to get one after I find an Unsaver. Has anyone else beside 0100010 put a solenoid inside their 4704?
Edit. I should say none that I know of, but I plan to.
- Touch_It
- Location: Nebraska, United States.
- Main keyboard: Unicomp Classic USB 103 key (work) IBM F 4704 107
- Main mouse: Logitech g502 Proteus Core
- Favorite switch: Buckling spring (yet to try Beam Spring)
- DT Pro Member: -
Thread referencing everything xwhatsit replacement controllers.Redmaus wrote: ↑I need both. So I need a driver board and a solenoid? Where could I find these? I don't have a 4704 yet, but when I get one I want to add a solenoid.Touch_It wrote: ↑Not yet. I bought a solenoid. Now I need to man up and buy a driver board for it from Tom before he runs out of parts to make one.Redmaus wrote: ↑4704 is such a nice board. I am going to get one after I find an Unsaver. Has anyone else beside 0100010 put a solenoid inside their 4704?
Edit. I should say none that I know of, but I plan to.
Seperately you would need to find someone to sell a solenoid by itself or alternatively buy a Model F 3718 donor board. (I bought mine from Cindy for $25 + shipping)
- idollar
- i$
- Location: Germany (Frankfurt area)
- Main keyboard: IBM F or M
- Favorite switch: BS
- DT Pro Member: -
Back to the original topic, before I feel the need to buy a solenoid ...
This is the rubber that I used, for those who may need a reference.
This is the rubber that I used, for those who may need a reference.
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- Redmaus
- Gotta start somewhere
- Location: Near Dallas, Texas
- Main keyboard: Unsaver | 3276 | Kingsaver
- Main mouse: Kensington Slimblade
- Favorite switch: Capacitative Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
I feel like that will erase away as I use it...idollar wrote: ↑Back to the original topic, before I feel the need to buy a solenoid ...
This is the rubber that I used, for those who may need a reference.
- fohat
- Elder Messenger
- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee, USA
- Main keyboard: Model F 122-key terminal
- Main mouse: Microsoft Optical Mouse
- Favorite switch: Model F Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0158
I have found that plastic wine corks can be cut to size for a variety of uses like this, and they are very tough.
- Redmaus
- Gotta start somewhere
- Location: Near Dallas, Texas
- Main keyboard: Unsaver | 3276 | Kingsaver
- Main mouse: Kensington Slimblade
- Favorite switch: Capacitative Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
I believe some of the model F XT's have cork dimelike supports by default correct?fohat wrote: ↑I have found that plastic wine corks can be cut to size for a variety of uses like this, and they are very tough.
- Touch_It
- Location: Nebraska, United States.
- Main keyboard: Unicomp Classic USB 103 key (work) IBM F 4704 107
- Main mouse: Logitech g502 Proteus Core
- Favorite switch: Buckling spring (yet to try Beam Spring)
- DT Pro Member: -
I bought some stick on rubber bumpers from Menards. 6dollars and some change but included various sizes. I'll try to post pics if I'm not lazy
- Redmaus
- Gotta start somewhere
- Location: Near Dallas, Texas
- Main keyboard: Unsaver | 3276 | Kingsaver
- Main mouse: Kensington Slimblade
- Favorite switch: Capacitative Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
I have my keyboard slightly raised myself, allows myself to type better in uncomfortable positions. But the sleek flat design of the keyboard is very appealing.snoopy wrote: ↑And is it really a handicap? I like that the 4704 is so flat.
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
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Love a good, low profile keyboard. Bear in mind the Kishy family has a curved backplate, like all Model Fs, which I find very comfortable even when flat on the desk. But sure, everyone's different.
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- Location: geekhack ergonomics subforum
- Favorite switch: Alps plate spring; clicky SMK
- DT Pro Member: -
The proper tilt depends on the height of your desk and chair. If you have the keyboard on your lap or on a low desk, then very flat (or even a slight negative tilt) is best. If you have the keyboard on a high desk and use a low chair, then it’s very helpful to tilt the keyboard.
You want to adjust the keyboard such that when your wrists are as straight as possible, it’s easy and comfortable to reach all the keys.
Try to keep the keyboard close to your body so that your upper arms can hang loosely down at your sides (instead of needing to reach forward or out to the side), with your shoulders relaxed, not shrugging upward or forward. If your keyboard is too far out in front of you, that adds a bunch of stress on your upper arms/shoulders/back, encouraging you to rest your palms on the table or a palmrest instead of keeping them straight.
You want to adjust the keyboard such that when your wrists are as straight as possible, it’s easy and comfortable to reach all the keys.
Try to keep the keyboard close to your body so that your upper arms can hang loosely down at your sides (instead of needing to reach forward or out to the side), with your shoulders relaxed, not shrugging upward or forward. If your keyboard is too far out in front of you, that adds a bunch of stress on your upper arms/shoulders/back, encouraging you to rest your palms on the table or a palmrest instead of keeping them straight.
- idollar
- i$
- Location: Germany (Frankfurt area)
- Main keyboard: IBM F or M
- Favorite switch: BS
- DT Pro Member: -
I guess that the latest apply if you type only. In my case, my notebook (paper) between me and the keyboard. You can see the pens in the keyboard in the first picture. This means that the keyboard is far in the table, which is high enough to allow hand-writing and reading.jacobolus wrote: ↑The proper tilt depends on the height of your desk and chair. If you have the keyboard on your lap or on a low desk, then very flat (or even a slight negative tilt) is best. If you have the keyboard on a high desk and use a low chair, then it’s very helpful to tilt the keyboard.
You want to adjust the keyboard such that when your wrists are as straight as possible, it’s easy and comfortable to reach all the keys.
Try to keep the keyboard close to your body so that your upper arms can hang loosely down at your sides (instead of needing to reach forward or out to the side), with your shoulders relaxed, not shrugging upward or forward. If your keyboard is too far out in front of you, that adds a bunch of stress on your upper arms/shoulders/back, encouraging you to rest your palms on the table or a palmrest instead of keeping them straight.
What I mean is that I use a computer as a tool among others. Paper is good for many purposes. I always need some between me and the computer.
- Touch_It
- Location: Nebraska, United States.
- Main keyboard: Unicomp Classic USB 103 key (work) IBM F 4704 107
- Main mouse: Logitech g502 Proteus Core
- Favorite switch: Buckling spring (yet to try Beam Spring)
- DT Pro Member: -
Maybe this will help someoneTouch_It wrote:I bought some stick on rubber bumpers from Menards. 6dollars and some change but included various sizes. I'll try to post pics if I'm not lazy
- Mal-2
- Location: Los Angeles, CA
- Main keyboard: Cherry G86-61400
- Main mouse: Generic 6-button "gaming mouse"
- Favorite switch: Probably buckling spring, but love them Blues too
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These are also useful for keeping doorknobs from punching holes in walls (or just rattling the walls), stopping refrigerator door handles from hitting countertops, sticking underneath laptops that have heat problems, and all manner of other things.Touch_It wrote: ↑I bought some stick on rubber bumpers from Menards.
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- Location: geekhack ergonomics subforum
- Favorite switch: Alps plate spring; clicky SMK
- DT Pro Member: -
If you are just pressing keyboard shortcuts here and there, and maybe typing an occasional forum post, that’s probably fine. If you plan to do any substantial amount of continuous typing, I recommend against it.idollar wrote: ↑I guess that the latest apply if you type only. In my case, my notebook (paper) between me and the keyboard. You can see the pens in the keyboard in the first picture. This means that the keyboard is far in the table, which is high enough to allow hand-writing and reading.
- 0100010
- Location: DFW TX, US
- Main keyboard: IBM 4704 107
- Main mouse: Trackman FX
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
100% this, for me anyway. My daily driver keyboard at work is about 2mm from the edge of the desk.jacobolus wrote: ↑If you are just pressing keyboard shortcuts here and there, and maybe typing an occasional forum post, that’s probably fine. If you plan to do any substantial amount of continuous typing, I recommend against it.idollar wrote: ↑I guess that the latest apply if you type only. In my case, my notebook (paper) between me and the keyboard. You can see the pens in the keyboard in the first picture. This means that the keyboard is far in the table, which is high enough to allow hand-writing and reading.
I also have rubber stick on bumpers under my F107 similar to Touch It's.