deskthority

always stay on the slow branch :) That protects you form most of the fuck ups. Its almost as if getting rid of 90% of your in house testing team was a bad idea microsoft! We are the test team ;) Also in related news a warning was issued for millions of users :shock: https://www.forbes.com/sites/gor...

No way. We all know that would never sell

Scarpia wrote: ↑

16 Sep 2019, 20:35

Holy crap there are some nice deals there; if I was in the U.S. I’d have to order me some NIB IBM goodies!

It was a stretch but was finally able to grab a NIB Wang branded Model M from Cindy

Very good write-up and restoration. One thing I did on my last restoration was start with a heat-gun to assist with removing as much of the old foam and sticky goo as possible. I was actually able to pull much of it away starting from a corner. Then I give it a good rinse of Goo-Gone while wearing s...

Dikkus wrote: ↑

08 Sep 2019, 22:21

Anyway, it's all done now and working perfectly! Thanks so much for all the advice guys, it was very helpful.

Send nudes please

One other thing I just though of. If you are doing many of these bolt mods I think ideally you would want some kind of jig to keep the barrel plate perfectly flat and well supported. Then you would need some sort of drill press to ensure no holes are drilled at an angle. I'm not sure about starting ...

Lots of little nuggets of information spread all over the web it seems. That is what i have found aswell, when i bolt mod my model m i am also converting it to ISO. I have just compiled what i think is best information from many different guides. The video i recommended is very good in my opinion. ...

Those videos are old and not as in depth as the one i have recommended Ah I see. Not sure if if this is useful but here is a gallery by pr0ximity using the nut bolt method and also replacing the blanket with a thinner one from Unicomp. Lots of little nuggets of information spread all over the web i...

Supplies used by 1AvidCollector:

Some videos and photos that we have made in the past few years about IBM model M cleaning, disassembly and putting it all back together. Inside look: Restoring and rebuilding a 32-year-old IBM model M https://www.facebook.com/ClickyKeyboards/videos/314191502500130/ Proudly restored by hand. https:/...

Get a replacement but use this one for practice.

You are definitely not a novice and it's healthy to take a step back. Think of this hobby like a rich chocolate cake. If you eat too much you will get sick but eat a little at a time and it goes a long way. There many facets to this hobby which has kept it interesting to me. I hate the process of se...

There can be a lot of satisfaction in doing it yourself. The downside though is the time cost as it likely will take you more than 3 hours as it will be your first one as it takes time to research and filter through the various guides and methods to doing a bolt mod. You also have to procure the cor...

I would be satisfied with a revamped prototype to showcase the potential of this wonderful project

My SSK is from 1992, so one of the early blue labels. Unfortunately if I break the barrel plate that's probably it for me -- I contacted Unicomp about replacement parts for the SSK and they said they're all out. Seriously...#$%! I have a pretty much nos ssk with a crack all the way through the cent...

If you shake your keyboard side to side you usually can hear or feel something moving around inside the keyboard when there are broken rivets. If none are missing you can often find one after lightly prying at one with your finger nail. This seems to be a bigger issue with the earliest of Model M's ...

SneakyRobb wrote: ↑

30 Aug 2019, 15:57

Hi, I always thought this sort of method might have the effect of putting a lot of stress on the white slider. I haven't heard of anyone actually damaging a slider in this way though. Have you ever damaged a slider in this way?

Never damaged a slider

On my Beamspring restoration thread I show an easy and safe way to disassemble the beamspring switches you can check it out if you like. Link: https://deskthority.net/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=22586 I used heavy duty lineman pliers with a tiny bit of electrical tape on the jaws to prevent scratching or d...

I want one :D Don't you already have like four? Great restoration though, amazing condition for such old beamers. Like Trump's tax return I won't say :lol: but I have no doubles and don't have a 3101 and that's one I'd like to have in my collection. I don't need or want one of every model just the ...

I want one

Looks like Bob really has a passion for cleaning and repair.

Truly a labor of love

Blink twice if she is standing behind you

That is awesome. I never had a cool mechanical keyboard growing up. Also I like how you have the same snacks on your desk

I can't wait to see how this turns out. I have nearly everything for a jaw dropping custom with this in mind

What about UV light only with the keyboard being in a sealed vacuum? No oxygen and minimal heat. Just a theory.

Wow that seems like an expensive AEK. Maybe more valuable to someone in Japan for the aesthetic?

There is also a clear joystick from the same seller. If it's a reproduction case it seems really well done and to me wouldn't be worth the hassle to design and make this just to make a few hundred bucks and risk your reputation as a seller. Edit: I also found this Kickstarter: https://www.kickstart...

There is also a clear joystick from the same seller. If it's a reproduction case it seems really well done and to me wouldn't be worth the hassle to design and make this just to make a few hundred bucks and risk your reputation as a seller.

Since switches seem to be hard to recover has anyone tried using a product called Chipquick which helps lower the melting point of solder?