deskthority

Yeah that's what I thought too but I didn't see mention of an ANSI version on the wiki. The legend placement on the numpad 0 is pretty distinctive though. Especially when combined with the bold arrows. If I manage to get it then I'll try to post an update. Just checked my database, and there is a K...

Yeah that's what I thought too but I didn't see mention of an ANSI version on the wiki. The legend placement on the numpad 0 is pretty distinctive though. Especially when combined with the bold arrows. If I manage to get it then I'll try to post an update.

Anyone know what this one is? It's in my local classifieds and I'm debating picking it up.

USB and PS/2 are very different protocols. USB in general is FAR more complex. On a serial bus [USB], a single signal often includes address, control, data, and clock information. (from this site) . Basically with USB there is a lot more data encoded into a single signal. There are other hardware di...

I always used it over PS/2 so that explains it

Yeah, black alps AT102 was my first true Alps board and I hated them. But they were in pretty bad shape and linearizing them helped a ton. (they are a bit light though, lighter than my green clones) The SGI version has some unfortunate rollover, or am I misremembering? iirc on my SGI granite the on...

The obvious choice is a Dell AT-101w. They come with bamboo Black Alps (tactile) and are very common. If you do a bit of looking around you can pick them up for 20-40 USD without a problem (I managed to get one free by volunteering at an electronics recycling drive at the local community center). I ...

I have a Zenith that I rebuilt with NOS Yellow Alps and it's one of my favorite boards. I'd say if you know you like the yellows not much reason to switch to the Greens (although I have never tried them myself). I do have an AT-101w with bamboo blacks that I linearized and I don't like it quite as m...

I had to do a double take at 13:09 when you showed off //Gainsborough's Zenith project. It looks very similar to A project that I bough off of //Gainsborough a while back, but after hunting down the post I see that his was a ZKB-2 not a KBD17.

I haven't ever seen a PCIe PS/2 card, but there are several PCI cards on Newegg. If you decide to order one make sure that you get the right card for whatever computer you're using it on (PCI and PCIe are not compatible).

Can you post a picture of the back side of the PCB as well?

This really sounds to me like a bad connection (either connector or soldered) somewhere. Can you post a picture of the back of the board?

I would look at the solder joints on the PCB. Look for any joint that looks cracked or discolored. Also, look for components that wiggle (there may be some flex in the leads or the component itself. This is normal. The lead itself should not move in the solder though). I picked up an Omnikey off of ...

It's not an issue. F flippers were large because that's how much they had space for, and they had antiquated 70s technology to work with. Nowadays we have 12-bit ADCs on the cheap which 70s engineers could only dream of, and we can sense at tens of kHz. Finally, you could modify the sense circuit t...

I'm going to preface this with it has been quite a while since I have done anything with electromagnetism so take what I say with a grain of salt. The main issue that you would run into is the size of the flipper. Yes, the same principle does apply with the model M flipper as the model F flipper, ho...

You would probably be better off using an xacto knife to cut the painters tape to the apple logo unless you want a nice yellowed stripe.

Another way that you could use the PCB but still have it hand wired would be to take an xacto knife/razor blade and physically cut the traces that go to and from the switch pins. This way the switches are still isolated, you don't have to go to all the effort of making a whole new backing plate or d...

Am I correct in assuming that the purpose of rewiring it was to get it to work on USB natively? Other than that, or maybe to add NKRO I don't really see a purpose.

I mostly agree with the other replies. If you like what you have stick with that. I have a red dragon board with mx blue clones (I think they are outemu but I don't feel like checking) and it is pretty decent. Personally, I like alps switches MUCH better than Cherry MX or clones so my daily driver i...

Nice! That is identical to my first mech keyboard. I found mine while helping out at a recycling drive and I still have it to this day.

I would agree with Kevin, 4 is GND, 5 is Vcc and you aren't likely to kill anything if you get the other ones wrong so you can just play around with them until it works. Also you should probably clean up all that corrosion before you plug it in. You don't need extra problems to solve.

One thing that you didn't mention is soldering wick . If I only have to desolder one or two switches then I tend to just use solder wick. My go to company for solder wick is the Chemtronics one that I linked. I have found that that one works really well (I have used some which are really bad). Yup....

Finally, I’m saving up money to buy all of the soldering equipment/supplies that I am going to need. The wait is going to kill me because I am beyond looking forward to fully restoring my baby. Keyboard restoration is an exercise in patience. I still have another week+ to wait for some 40V develope...

kelvinhall05 wrote: ↑

16 Sep 2020, 03:56

Wish shipping from Germany to Canada made sense for me.

Glws

Same.

I actually just tried adding some 1k resistors between +5V to Clock and +5V to Data on an XT Model F that was working fine unmodified. Adding those two 1K resistors caused it to stop working altogether. Of note, there was already about 2K resistance between +5V and the clock and data lines while un...

My two cents on the matter: - It sucks that you are stuck buying a computer that is not what you expected. Yes, you should have read the description and I don't think that he should be obligated to offer a refund. It still sucks. - Andj was clear in the ad (I also saw it on ebay), but I really don't...

Is there any way you could detect when there's a load present and use it to power on the teensy, or stop pulling the RST line to ground. Put a transistor or a relay on the vcc DIN plug pin. Long story short yes but it would be more complicated. You do make a good point though that I didn't think ab...

You could probably just put a toggle switch out through the back of the case. Connect the toggle switch to the power for the teensy. With the switch on the port would be powered and on. With the switch off the power would be disabled and the teensy would be off. If you ever had to reboot the Soarers...

Thanks for the advice! I've checked all my solder joints and electronic components when I first got the board and they all looked ok to me. My cheap old multimeter cannot measure capacitance unfortunately, therefore I have no "professional" way to test the caps, but at least visually they all seeme...

I know this thread is ancient and kinda dead, but I was wondering what ever happened to this situation with the FK 2001 because I have the same problems you had and maybe you fixed it. When I forst got my 2002 it worked with no issues for about 3 days. Then, after an evening of extensive use it sud...