deskthority

New addition to the collection, a HHKB 400BN with silent sliders and HiPro keycaps. The white 400W one is stock.

Looking to join this time around. I've seen more Fs since the last attempt at running this and would love those components in my SSK :)

A couple of friends got the Fnatic Rush since it's available in Cherry MX Silent Red ISO-DE. It's reasonably priced for a backlit gaming keyboard. If you want to go more Premium, look for Filco Ducky or Leopold boards. They don't scream "gaming" in your face but are very well built keyboards you cou...

Haha, that was more of a phone potato for Telegram, but I was glad someone made the effort to bring something like the F107. The little meetup was dominated by fully/semi custom split boards and a couple UHKBs. I couldn't be bothered to bring anything but a lame excuse of a 60% keyboard either. Btw ...

Thanks for the change hiding user information with each post. Little things like this add so much usability. After looking at it for a while my brain still can't handle the alternating shading every other post by the way. the thin line and gap from icons/title might be enough emphasis? The example a...

Major issues from a first glance: Thread tables put way too much emphasis on the titles. Doesn't work and isn't readable. Inside threads all clarity has gone by displaying shitty user information all the time. Picture, name, maybe title. Again a LOT of space wasted vertically. There's more but those...

Myoth wrote: ↑Jokes apart, this was bound to happen, and you guys (telegram admins) fell for it, kudos to Mr.Nobody for basically stirring shit up by just joining :lol:

Falling for something kind of implies the outcome is unwanted or unexpected, but as long as he stays here in OT that's a win?

I do miss CRTs a bit :(
Wish I could sit down with one just to play Quake or something.

I would like to nominate the UHKB
https://ultimatehackingkeyboard.com/

It has always been a cool project, and it turned into a super professional product which is open source:

Pretty fucking great, as always.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/kekstee/a ... 3295338634

It's difficult to define a clear cut-off age, since it seems some batches were assembled into boards at different times, but it seems 90+-3 is your best bet. It's not the springs, some early 2010s Reds I had were still awful with lube and new springs. And the retooled linears (I have a bunch made th...

I think you could pry it apart from the top a bit without breaking the rivets. You should be able to get a look at the state of the contact, maybe there is even a way to clean it a little.
Not quite sure though. It's been a while since I sorted/cleand those.

You cannot reach the contact point without breaking apart the rivets on the switch plate assembly. In the upper half of the picture you can see an opened one with the corroded dent in the middle. That's the actual contact point between the plate and the "leaf", held apart by a plastic spacer. IMG_20...

I have some shelf space dedicated to my 60 cases and plenty cardboard boxes stuffed away with everything larger than that. Also original boxes where applicable.

One thing I thought about is getting a display case for some keyboards. Closed cases with UV blocking glass should exist, right?

There's something new on my desk. Who could say no to a gift like this?

voight-kampff wrote: ↑I must say, this keycap stem breaking issue is annoying. However one must not forget that cherry MX stems was not designed to often change keycap sets.

Doesn't change the fact that the design isn't at fault if you cram it onto out of spec shit switches

Have you measured the results?

If you had ever seen switches from the 2000 to 2010 period compared to ~90 ones you wouldn't make fun of it like that.

Btw I really wonder when the BOX mount got out of spec or if it has always been this way. The keyset death toll must be... enormous.

I only really liked them after applying some lube, but yeah. Being able to buy new switches I would build a board with is a nice thing. It applies to the linear molds and their new dampened linear, I think. There's a little notch on the top of the stem which is an easy way to tell them apart, maybe ...

Happens to PBT as well. Those switches simply aren't MX compatible in this version. So measure first before you put anything on them. You won't be able to use it anywhere else. Also material fatigue might kill the caps completely even on Boxes over time. Jm6P8rLUvmw source: https://www.reddit.com/r/...

Beamspring prices have indeed gone off the charts.

Yes that's correct.
First time I hear about those replacement chips, that might work.

It's a terminal SSK. I put in an M controller instead of converting the real one so far.

Ultrasonic works best. Of course it also depends on the cleaning agent used.
I wouldn't go beyond 40°C on ABS.

I don't blame iMav not at all. No matter what company buys it, you have to keep your eyes open and look out for things. Well, given how things went down and how the community had no chance in hell to keep up... it's a pretty shitty deal. I wonder how the site will be squeezed for money now. //e Giv...

iMav wrote: ↑(guess I haven't been all that active here...you should SEE the PMs I have in my inbox from Ripster from 2012! LOL)

Haha, time capsule inbox.

Desoldering a decent board with H-code for keys is pretty stupid.

The same issue as it is with powdercoating in the first place, a decent layer of paint will change the cutout size in unpredictable ways.
(I've done that when restoring old plates, it always kind of sucks)