deskthority

keyboardcircle wrote: 12 Feb 2020, 02:38 I have one in pristine condition.

Are you looking to sell by any chance?

Just out of interest, why are you interested in getting a non Topre rubber dome board when you have a model M as a daily driver?

To answer your question, its the same as the replies above, BTC Dome with Slider for something with good sound and tactility and Topre for the ultimate rubber dome ...

Take the board to an electronics repair shop, they may be able to replace a blown capacitor or something and salvage the board. If not, and you are not able to find a replacement controller - then I would say switch donor it is unfortunately.

@ Weezer- Ahh yeah I never considered the fact that the old foam was actually really sticky. I did manage to get out all of the flippers before even starting to touch the foam, but it could be that some goop got on that one I guess. After doing the shaking trick, it sticks a little less than before ...

Hey Sneakyrobb, thanks for the quick reply. I used 1.5mm Neoprene foam that I bought off eBay. It fit perfectly and closed snuggly. It has vastly improved the consistancy of the switches accross the board. Someone from the forum suggested to use the 3mm Neoprene, but I felt like that may have been ...

Hey guys, I know there is a post talking about a key on the model F getting stuck, but in that case the key is getting stuck on the upstroke. My problem is a little different and weirder.

I've got a fully rebuilt Model F AT that runs wonderfully. I replaced the foam as well and cleaned the whole ...

Would be interested in them for sure. There is massive scarcity in the market for a variety of Alps caps. Maybe start an IC on Reddit MK as well?

Just out of interest, has there ever been a keyboard on here that we couldn't identify? The ability of the community to identify even the rarest of keyboards is uncannily good!

https://i.imgur.com/05QSX7p.jpg

This is my doctoral advisor’s keyboard. I don’t know that much about vintage keyboards, but it doesn’t look like any apple keyboard I’ve ever seen before, especially since it’s 65%. It connects via USB, and I think it might have two ports on the side.

I do ...

https://youtu.be/Y5CzpwJdRqE
Watch this from 2:36 :lol:

"it is a gaming switch because it's RGB lighted"
If I install RGB LED light fixtures in my house, does it become a gaming house? What about if I paint my tarantula red, green, and blue? Gaming spider?


rofl :lol: you made my day dude ...

It looks amazing. I can only imagine what an alps board inside that chassis would sound like. Time to retrofit?

Wait I thought this was some sort of IBM BS board seeing as it was built in the Greenock plant?

Oh that's cool to hear. I always wrapped up and packed away my alps board the second that i stopped using them in the fear that a single spec of dust was all that was needed to kill them! XD I guess i'll start using them a little more heavily now

Desoldering is the best option. Alternatively, you can try using compressed air or contact cleaner to see if that helps. It might be debris or corrosion that's stopping the switch from making electrical contact.

If it's worn to the point of fatigue in the contact plate, I've seen some people put ...

Thank you for the reply guys! Alright i will try using it for gaming, i think it should be quite suited for it!

@E3E, When you say replace the contacts if they stop working do you mean de-solder and re-solder a new switch plate, or is there an easier way to replace the contacts without de-soldering?

Just got my first blue alps board soldered up and in use. God these things are sublime. I have an orange and brown alps board as well, but the oranges aren't in the best condition and the browns are super rounded in their tactility but they are way to heavy for me to use for longer typing sessions ...

I think you may need to disconnect the Bluetooth keyboard and then restart the machine with this keyboard plugged in. I see that its reading your Bluetooth keyboards battery level in the background which may be confusing it as to which board to read.

It depends on what you are going for. Is max stability more important than shine through lighting for example? Different very stable and interesting designs always have their pitfalls. The Buckling Spring (BS) design is super stable and I would assume the 'stacked height' would be negligible due to ...

So I tried out the floss mod last week on the numpad keys and decided not to go ahead with doing the whole keyboard. It does certainly reduce the ping sound by a lot, but I personally noticed a change in the key-feel as well. To me is felt as if the travel distance became just a tiny bit shorter and ...

Oh that's interesting. The general consensus was that dry lubes are better suited to alps switches. Maybe I got it wrong :/ For sure though, they should not be scratchy at all to use. If you have cleaned them out well and nothing is helping, I guess the switches saw too much heavy use, or use when ...

Tbh in the 200+ USD price range I would suggest you try to go for a Model F AT - if the layout is doable for you. I find it far superior to the model M's typing experience. SSK's are amazing but generally cost around 300 USD. For a normal model M I wouldn't go above 150 (if bolt modded). If stock ...

Cleaned up my new Zenith Z150 AT and I'm loving it, but the switches feel...off. They feel alright but sound horribly scratchy and aren't as smooth as everyone says they are. Hell, my linearized At101 felt smoother. Thing is, I took apart and sprayed the switch housings with compressed air, and ...

fireworm wrote: 07 Jan 2020, 16:57 I have some z150's (which is the AT layout) and aek ii's (and other older apple keyboards), magnavox video writer (basically hhkb layout), and one dell at101, and one sgi Bigfoot (basically an at101)

Interested?

Pm'd

Just checking if anyone here has an Alps chassis that was perhaps used as a donor board for its switches to sell? I've got some really nice Blue Alps that are looking for a new home and I want to keep them in a vintage chassis.

If you have a vacant chassis that is in decent working order, or an ...

The floss mod will help to a degree. I find it mostly cuts down on the higher range ping noise more than dampens vibration, but it does dampen the vibration. It is time consuming, but not that difficult to do. I would try it out on a few keys to see if it cuts down on the vibration you don't ...

Thanks a lot for the quick reply Wazrach! It's good to hear that that is normal, I was afraid that the sudden presence of the reverb in the caps on the upstroke coupled with the odd behavior when the key caps are off, were a sign that I screwed up somewhere in the restoration process.

Just out ...

Thanks a lot for the quick reply Wazrach! It's good to hear that that is normal, I was afraid that the sudden presence of the reverb in the caps on the upstroke coupled with the odd behavior when the key caps are off, were a sign that I screwed up somewhere in the restoration process.

Just out of ...

Apologies for opening a new post, but nobody here seems to have the problem I am with my F...

So I did a foam replacement today and everything went well, I got everything closed up and all the keys are working fine during normal use. I have noticed though that on the up stroke the keys vibrate ...

as you know the model F's aren't exactly the easiest to take apart.



For what it's worth, the XT is by far the easiest to take apart and put back together. Back in the day I refurbished several of them by hand without resorting to clamps.


I previously thought that the AT and XT would be ...

Just came across this board on eBay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-IBM-6112884-Japanese-Keyboard-New-in-box/163999606972?epid=1723025453&hash=item262f2368bc:g:2WgAAOSwx0td~ln4

It looks a lot like the 107 key model F but is missing the F row and apparently uses Alps SKCC switches. Has anyone ...