deskthority

I dont really understand the hype around btc dome with slider. When I get mine, just a few minutes typing on it and I was like: yep, this is definitely a rubber dome. Never on par with a mechanical switch feeling, to me. I guess I wont like topre either. Rubber domes in general are a very weird fee...

Chyros wrote: ↑

17 Feb 2020, 10:47

BTC dome with slider boards can be had for next to nothing and are among the best rubber domes in the field.

Really? I rarely see them below $50...

So I looked into this a bit more, and it seems that conductive paint is the way to go, but what I just don't understand is how to remove the damn solder mask. I've tried scraping with half a dozen different knives, xactos, screwdrivers, etc, and it just seems like there's a point where you're eithe...

This thread has a couple of ideas that you could try. I haven't tried any of them so be careful. I think like their idea of using high grit sand paper but I'm not sure how precise it would be. You could also try an emery board (the thing for polishing your nails) they're pretty cheap, high grit and...

If you just want to connect the two sides then yes you absolutely can run a wire. I would go about it by scraping off the solder mask (the green non-conductive coating over the traces) from the traces on either side of the damaged pad. Then you could just run a wire between the two new 'pads' that ...

I would use something like "Copper Foil Tape with Conductive Adhesive" from adafruit or equivalent, cut into appropriate shape. Or barring that, regular copper foil with small dabs of conductive paint where copper meets the membrane trace, as regular foil doesn't have conductive adhesive. How much ...

The pads were scraped away by...something, not sure what. The top one doesn't have a connection between both sides. This set of pads was used to tell the typewriter this keyboard is from that the case was open and probably to disable the keyboard, but I'm not sure if it was a digital or physical cut...

Bought some sexy Alps (hopefully) keycaps 😎 https://medium.com/@ParityB1t/alps-avid-media-keyboard-9b851b32fc87 link that shows them hopefully being alps compatible https://www.ebay.com/itm/Avid-ALPS-ADP-Keyboard/133328407244?shqty=1&isGTR=1&autorefresh=true&pageci=84cb52f0-7e39-42ba-ba3f-f0584896b7...

Bit of an odd suggestion, but if you want something unique and a bit of a project, look for a Prototopre board. I'd say the easiest source of them is probably from older Brother electronic typewriters, like my AX-24 for example. Most have really good keycaps, and the rubber domes are called "Prototo...

Hey man, sorry for the late reply. Here's an album with some pics of it:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/bv8QhxnbC1HjXtuX6
They feel ridiculously good...so good I'm going to attempt to convert it to USB. Should just be as simple as treating it as if it was a hand-wired matrix/board, right?

Came across a Brother AX-24 with conductive domes. Feel pretty good, and the keycaps are just kick-ass. Pretty thick ABS double or tripleshots. Any questions about it?

ppCircle wrote: ↑

08 Feb 2020, 23:20

kelvinhall05 wrote: ↑

08 Feb 2020, 20:43

There are better linears, better tactiles, and better clicky switches if all you're going for is feel. But man do Alps sound good.

DOUBT

Maybe not better clickies, but if you also include keycap and PCB compatibility as well as availability...yeah

This is why you buy Alps only in good shape.


imo, 90% of the reason to buy Alps is for the sound, not keyfeel. There are better linears, better tactiles, and better clicky switches if all you're going for is feel. But man do Alps sound good.

Ironically, cleaning it might have caused it - you gave the leaf more wiggle room, as it were. If it really bothers you try switching the click leaf with switches you rarely use - like scroll lock or something. I don’t recommend paper mod as that will dampen click on the downstroke as well. The wei...

I can see how upstroke click would be annoying on a tactile board since those aren’t supposed to click. But what’s so bad about a clicky switch clicking on an upstroke? In my experience most clicky alps have a faint click on their upstroke. When the slider comes back up it has to clear the click le...

So I've thoroughly cleaned my Omnikey Ultra but after using it for a week, the clicking on upstroke has come back. Why the fuck is it coming back? The two other white Alps boards, one in *worse shape* than this one before cleaning never had that issue. Why why why are my switches cursed in this boar...

Paco666 wrote: ↑

06 Feb 2020, 02:40

I have a pretty well preserved Apple m0115 with orange alps in its original box. I’m from Canada but if you want to try and make this work send me a pm!

I'm in Canada, any chance you'd be interested in trading?

How much is an Omnikey Ultra with the original cable worth? Board is 9/10, but it's yellowed. Very, very clean otherwise. Switches have been opened and given a Chyros "soft clean" (dust housings, sliders, wash click leaves/springs) and are now a 9-9.5/10. Keycaps are also in good shape, but also yel...

My recently acquired Omnikey Ultra has some issue with switches binding when pressed off-center. The seller said the switches were super clean and the board itself is in good shape. Is this normal? EDIT: Also, a lot of switches are clicking on the upstroke, way more than my FK-9000 which also has w...

My recently acquired Omnikey Ultra has some issue with switches binding when pressed off-center. The seller said the switches were super clean and the board itself is in good shape. Is this normal? EDIT: Also, a lot of switches are clicking on the upstroke, way more than my FK-9000 which also has wh...

How much are 128 brand-new (albeit desodered from a board) MX blacks worth? The board is from the Windows 2000/XP era.

ppCircle wrote: ↑

18 Jan 2020, 17:35

This?



But i don't think they are cheap

That thing looks fucking badass! What is it?

Are there any relegendable Alps SKCM/SKCL-mount keycaps? Preferably ones in the same profile although I don't have a "row" preference or whatever. The cheaper the better but if I don't have to pay much more to find ones in Canada or the US (as opposed to China) I'm fine with that. Thanks! Yes, they...

Are there any relegendable Alps SKCM/SKCL-mount keycaps? Preferably ones in the same profile although I don't have a "row" preference or whatever. The cheaper the better but if I don't have to pay much more to find ones in Canada or the US (as opposed to China) I'm fine with that. Thanks!

These are ABS key caps. With the correct surface preparation it's one of the most superglue-friendly plastics out there. I would "pin" the parts together using, for example, some sections of paperclip, inside the hollow region of the Alps mount. I've used these techniques to repair broken PBT keyca...

We talked briefly about those caps a few months back, perhaps this will help: https://deskthority.net/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=10405&p=450478 Those keyboards were made by Silitek and were often rebranded. The photos I posted were from a Liteon-branded SK-0002, badged as Northgate. I also have a Silitek-...

Being the idiot I am, I broke off the stem of one of the control keys on a Lite-on SK-2002. This really sucks as I don't have *any* replacement doubleshot control keys, and the ones on my FK-9000 are a slightly lighter colour and are different keycaps. I was wondering if anyone has a replacement or ...

purdobol wrote: ↑

09 Jan 2020, 23:57

Yes, provided you have the physical space for the switches.

Yeah, not quite sure how to put it but imagine a 60% PCB with no switches where the Windows keys go. That's kind of what I'm thinking.

Just ignore the "Schematic" part of the guide and follow the rest I guess. When you get to the Routing paragraph, align the traces to correspond to the Pro Micro pinout. https://deskthority.net/wiki/Arduino_Pro_Micro. Or maybe try handwiring method first. It'll be way easier, and it is great learni...

purdobol wrote: ↑

09 Jan 2020, 23:09

No it is for the chip alone. Pro Micro has all the necessary stuff built in (like crystal, capacitors, resistors).
And has 18 pins available for use so up to 80 keys (10x8). So the only thing left is trace management and diodes.

OK. How would I do a schematic that uses a Pro Micro?