deskthority

i like detachable cables... i do end up swapping often. i have a Model M hooked up all the time for my coding/numpad needs, and I grab a smaller board with more appropriate switches when gaming or not trying to wake up my girlfriend. I actually feel that the smaller the board, the more important it ...

They say if you listen on a quiet night, you can still hear a Matias "tactile" switch clicking into the darkness..... click.... click.... click..

I love all these WYSE-50's pics. i really like the layout of these boards, basically a 65% with a numpad.. kinda AT layout evolved, heh. Also it seems like these WYSE-50's were bought and reskinned by some interesting companies in interesting ways. The body looks tough and well constructed. The lege...

Beautiful keyboard, and it looks like a pretty fun and usable layout - you should try to convert it.

The font and legends above the F keys are amazing, i'm a huge fan.

Perhaps PBT would require more heat to dye sub? I wonder if there is a difference in process..

Just updated the keyboard's firmware using the "X87EC(S)BLE PROGRAMMING SOFTWARE", maybe that will solve this problem for good. There was a new firmware released last month...



update: firmware update sems to have fixed it

TL;DR: I have trouble registering off-center key presses on my Niz Plum. The CalibrationLite tool fixes the issue, but only temporarilly. I have to use the Calibration Tool and reset to "InitialCalib" about once a day. Got my Niz Plum 87 about a month ago. It has become my primary while I gather up ...

looks like a real PITA to get the colors to come out saturated

My maxkey blue & gray keycaps (sa/abs/double-shot) are pretty slippery and high quality. They also sound great IMO
But theorhetically POM should be much slicker, although I have no experience with it.

A friend wants something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Filco-Majestouch ... LQN68?th=1

Are there any other options that are: (in order of importance)
1. Wireless with regular batteries, not Li-Po
2. Tactile switch
3. Cherry MX Mount keycaps

Well then, I think I feel confident enough to say...

Nobody should pay $850 for that Model M in the ebay listing I listed before.

Weezer wrote: ↑

13 Mar 2020, 20:52

You can always tell the real oval industrial keyboards apart by the raised metal lettering of "IBM"

Interesting. Even the silver and blue badged Industrials have raised lettering?

Regarding the case fit, could you not shift the innards over towards the right, to sort of average out the gap? I imagine some judicious shaving of plastic inside the case might be necessary, but you just need a few millimeters... No, if i shifted the innards over to the right, then a gap would for...

True, it's possible this is legit...

The wikipedia page does list this model as a blue badge - Not sure if that is automatically disqualifying, as my NOS Industrial Case from Unicomp is also a blue badge by default, and apparently they are legit Industrial cases made in 1995 by Lexmark.

The above ebay link appears to be a fake, as the Model M Wikipedia page doesn't list that model number as an Industrial variant in the notes. Possibly an oversight, but likely not.

Hmmm - the plot thickens. I see on Ebay there is an auction with what LOOKS to be an authentic Industrial Model M from 1993 that also displays a very similar gap... interesting. Or is this someone getting fancy with a laser printer and a Unicomp NOS case? $850 - yowzer. https://www.ebay.com/itm/IBM-...

No problem, you can get them here: https://www.pckeyboard.com/page/product/1394942 Don't forget to get the lock lights overlay here: (Pebble, LED's on bottom) https://www.pckeyboard.com/page/product/LED Black logo with silver IBM lettering: https://www.ebay.com/itm/IBM-Model-M-Industrial-Black-Repla...

My Model M arrived from ebay - a 1401 from 1990. Nice cosmetic condition - 8 rivets missing. Anyway, I also bought an Industrial Gray case from Unicomp for $30 with a proper lock lights sticker. (cool black logo w/ silver IBM in the mail) It arrived and looks almost-great, however there is a problem...

Thanks!

I need the little thing that you push into the cherry keycap stems so that the stabilizer rod can pinhole through it, but I cant find where to buy some by themselves.

Any ideas?

heh, I see. okay, i guess i'll take it all apart and do a full screw mod. rats... thought I could get away with a partial mod.

Interesting, I didn't think about having little pieces of plastic rattling around within the mechanism after I was done. How much of an issue is that? Should I not consider a partial screw mod, since I then couldn't seperate the mechanism and ensure there is no plastic debris blocking flippers? That...

I understand that a lot of model m's require the screw or bolt mod due to deteriation of the plastic rivets that hold it's internals together. I've seen some youtube videos about the bolt mod which seemed a bit labor intensive. I've heard the Screw mod is easier, but it looks like that tutorial from...