deskthority

@NathanA Weird and frustrating as the Mac situation is (I've still never used my split Model F due to it), it does seem to offer at least one benefit, in that you can independently remap modifiers on a per-keyboard basis. Although ... now that I've typed that, I'm all but certain you could accomplis...

Karabiner definitely didn't work for me on my personal machine. What I did: 1. Installed. Granted what permissions dialogs came up. 2. Karabiner complained about the ".Karabiner-VirtualHID-Device-Manager" extension not being enabled. I followed the instructions to deactivate it, restart, reactivate ...

This discussion may help if you are on a Mac: https://superuser.com/questions/707225/how-can-i-combine-the-input-of-two-keyboards I spent about an hour trying to get it to work, including diving in to some Github issues discussions, but I was unsuccessful. Unfortunately, it's kind of moot—I'll neve...

Update: Removing the washer worked. My second cable came in, and now I'm able to type! After some weirdness where one half would send its key presses before the other while typing fast, things are working ... mostly correctly. (No, I'm not sure what caused that particular problem to fix itself.) The...

The other cables I tried were all active, yeah. I already ordered a second basic cable, so it should do the trick. I prefer not to use adapters; there are a lot of sketchy ones out there, and they’re also big and bulky! I’ll give removing the washer a shot. As for the wobble, it’s case wobble, not b...

I got my split ergo yesterday. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to use it yet. It seems to be very picky with USB-C cables—only one of mine works with it, so I had to order another off of Amazon, which should arrive tomorrow. It did come with two USB C->A cables, but I don't have any "A" ports on ...

Apologies if it's been answered, but whatever happened with the "ortholinear split ergonomic" Model Fs? Did the auction already conclude?

I don't see that a USB-B connector is necessarily more durable than a USB-C connector. It's also very atypical to use USB-B with a keyboard; I don't think I ever saw it outside of keyboards, scanners, and maybe a Zip drive. Anyway, it seems the point is moot if it's still coming with USB-C. Looking ...

Just to make sure: R2 is still on track to have USB-C, right? I don't see any advantage to USB-B.

I ordered a couple of months ago, but I wish I'd waited to see that new 62-key case. Oh, well!

Very much in the eyes of the beholder. I, for one, am far more likely to buy it with that "posterior section"

For mapping, I have the basic Apple bottom row with the key right of right shift being MO1. The only custom I have are Tab + HJKL for arrow keys, Tab + YUIO for Shift+Arrow keys, and Tab + M for enter. ETA: Something I keep meaning to ask: Does the keyboard need to draw 500 mA of current? I ask, bec...

@BuGless that seems to have done it. Thanks!

@shampoo I would love a wireless version, but I don't think it's in the cards at the moment.

I got my F62 four days ago. Works great and without any blemishes on the case. The black keys all have a slight discoloration on the upper left corner, which is a little odd but not something I care about. Kind of gives it character, and it's not like I ever look at the keys while typing. One odd is...

My serial number sticker on the chassis bottom is different. It's a shiny silver rather than a dull gray. See the attached photo. (The angle is funky, because when I took it, I was trying to capture the faded writing.)

I think I found the same seller. It's tempting to buy now just to have it on-hand for the future in case he sells out. For now, the foam seems to be in good shape, but I'll definitely think about it.

The grey colour appears printed (so with half-tone pattern) and the original was not grey paper. However someone with the real one could keep me honest here! There also might have been different versions. While I might have to use a loupe to be sure, my sticker does not appear to be half-tone. Howe...

I was looking through some old photos I took, and it looks like I might actually still have the original foam. Can anyone confirm that's what I'm looking at? (Obviously what's pictured looks like foam, but I'm unsure from these photos if this means all the foam is intact. It also seems to be in good...

Removing beamspring keycaps is always nervewracking. I've done full teardowns more than once, but It's not something I do lightly! I'll be happy to hold off in this case. If and when I ever do it, I'll probably also replace the debris shield as well (and pray I never have to open it again).

Thank you! So the foam is mainly for reducing the wobble. The wobble doesn't bother me, so I'll skip it for now. (Looking at beamspring disassembly photos has made me realize just how clean mine is. The previous owner had already removed the foam and debris shield. All I had to do was clean the pads...

I've seen a few references online to "foam replacements" for beamspring keyboards, and I have the usual questions: What exactly is the foam for? What does it do? What will be the effect on typing? Where do I get replacement foam? Should I do it?

Should it matter, I've a DisplayWriter 6580 keyboard.

To a certain extent, it does seem as if some people are poo-pooing it for somewhat silly reasons. Not buying modern beamsprings because of the case color or the fact it uses a standard, mass appeal layout is a bit of a head-scratcher.

Wintermute1974 wrote: ↑

29 Aug 2021, 08:18

You left-thumb people would have failed my high school’s typing class.

... Why?

Left thumb on a normal keyboard. I want to meet the maniac who uses their pinkies.

Replacing the controller is VERY worth it. If I were to buy one, this is probably the route I would go. I replaced the controller in my 1987 SSK, and it's like a whole new keyboard with all the customization I can do. I wish Unicomp had just gone with QMK from the get-go, but I guess I can sort of ...

Does it have trouble registering keys pressed in quick succession like the original beamspring boards? If you are talking about Thomas' original review video, that problem was because the solenoid extend/retract time was too slow to keep up with the keypresses. Once that setting was changed, it is ...

Has anyone made a controller replacement for the Mini M? I like the keyboard but not the Q problem or the lack of programability. I saw this for the original M but it would appear the matrix/connections are a bit different on the Mini M. Over the weekend, I built a controller for my IBM SSK. It's s...

Just curious here - what's the approximate actuation force/distance for these new switches? The couple force curves of unknown accuracy I've been able to find put the vintage switches at a pretty light 45-ish cN with a fairly long by modern standards actuation distance of about 2.7mm. No idea if th...

You would need a custom controller and firmware in addition to the solenoid driver.

I also like the serial numbers, but they aren't a make-or-break for me. RE: Switch tool. I could swear I saw an illustration of one in a service manual. Unfortunately, most of the manuals in the wiki are no longer up, and the ones I was able to check didn't have anything. It's possible I'm conflatin...