deskthority

I prefer the 7x spacebar or the 2.75 - 1.5 - 2.75 split space bar.

Nice - that revision 3 is looking good! Add a couple barrels on the bottom row and you have these options (GIF) :

Unfortunately, non stepped 1.75x BS keys are a rare thing. I do recall some discussion of cutting down a 2.75x right shift, using some kind of resin or epoxy to fill in the step, or one could purchase a Japanese key set from Unicomp to get its short non stepped right shift (but last I checked they d...

I could go either way myself with respect to right shift, much like Hypersphere (function there or function on the bottom row). I can see some folks wanting to make a Kish clone (meaning standard right shift), and others wanting to make a HHKB clone (split right shift not compatible with standard), ...

My F107 back label had the original date still exposed, 26-1983 (which I assume means week 26, 1983) - and it had a sticker on the bottom plate with a date around 10-09-95 (which I assume was a remanufacture or repair date).

Below is what i have so far for a 60% (64 actual capacitive pads set up in an 8x8 array). There should be room to put xwhatsit's controller on the matrix PCB. It would support Hypersphere's and 0100010's preferred key layouts - the only difference being the top layer of the sandwich on Hypershere's...

The next advancement in keyboard audible feedback :

There are not a lot of Code key caps out there and Unicomp is not making more of them. You would need two per keyboard. I have 16 code keys to use for this (and also access to a waterjet (at $3/minute + my own labor) and a slip roll). So I can make 8 keyboards. Not as many as I’d like perhaps, but ...

Like these (GIF) :

There are not a lot of Code key caps out there and Unicomp is not making more of them. You would need two per keyboard. The profile of the Space and Code keys is nice, but I don't think that I would have a problem using the standard key profile; I've always used my thumb on the Alt key anyway. Afte...

My choice would be the HHKB Pro 2 layout. I've adjusted the bottom row for a 7.00x spacebar and mods at 1.50x and 1.00x. HHKB.png If necessary, the short Right Shift with 1.00x Fn key could be replaced by a standard Right Shift, and the bottom row adjusted to place a Fn key to the far right. Possib...

The PCB wcass used for his XTant is here in PDF form : https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=51767.0

wcass - based on your layout, could maybe do something like this.

What's the width of a code key? Looks like 2.75 with the profile of a spacebar // just wanted to confirm.

There is an SSK membrane PDF in this thread on GH : https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=59027.0

But - we are talking capacitive PCBs in this thread, Model Fs.

Besides the right shift, this layout would work on Kishsaver. http://s28.postimg.org/hhp111hsd/BS62.jpg Or it could work with a custom plate / PCB. Or remove the bottom outer edge modifiers and you have HHKB. EDIT : You can't see it in this image, but that number row also has front function legends ...

I wouldn't recommend cutting up any original F107 / 77 / 62 / 50 myself.

I would recommend trying to get a custom 'XTant' plates and PCBs drawn up, so that we can start building custom Model Fs in whatever layout one desires.

Interesting. Two questions for this - Is it the entire internal assembly that has shifted right, that just needs to be moved to the left (which is possible with most Model Fs using the existing bottom plate mounting tabs)? Or is it that the barrel frame is not fully seated against the bottom plate, ...

Aha! Yes, this makes sense. I am going to try this in my F107. And by dampening vibrations, rubber washers might also help maintain the lateral spacing of the plate assembly to keep the keys from hitting the edges of the case. Not sure why this is a concern? The keys on my 4704 107 get nowhere clos...

My F107 doesn't have any spacers/gaskets, the plates are just bolted together through the case. Would you post a photo of this situation, please? Just because I am curious in case I ever get one of these. In some of the pictures I posted of mine, you can see where the spacers could go. You can see ...

The only time I have run into a scratchy BS switch, was if the spring was not "straight". If you look at the image madhias posted, you see how the springs seem to point many directions, even though the hammers are essentially in alignment? When I re-assemble a BS board, I try to make sure the spring...

chzel wrote: ↑

0100010 wrote: ↑M2 screw diameter is 0.787".

More like 0.0787", or according to a conversion chart I have, #46 or #47 drill.

D'oh! yes, missed that zero...

M2 screw diameter is 0.787". A 1/16" drill bit is 0.0625". What kind of M2 screws - straight shank machine screws for use with nuts, or pointed shank for direct engagement with the barrel plate? 1/16" should work very well for pointed shank, but you will want a larger diameter, probably around 5/64 ...

Was actually just about the same info : 1 - Sparkfun has solenoids (but I don't know if they will work with one of xwhatsits drivers) 2 - IBM 3178s have solenoids - I have one I can sell (hence the PM) 3 - Check with Cindy to see if she has any 3178s left, if you want the spare parts in addition to ...

Sent you a PM.

Those O-rings are an interesting idea. I was contemplating using a split lock washer myself - but figured their use would probably crack the barrels. When I rebuilt my 4704 107 recently, I tried 2mm craft foam across the entire plate - found that it wasn't thick enough for the home row. Tried 3mm cr...

What about adding a metal strip along one edge of the barrels, and wiring up the bottom of the spring? That way when the spring buckles - it contacts the metal strip and closes the circuit / actuates the switch. (I too have been wondering about a method to plate mount individual BS switches using th...