deskthority

Falkenroth wrote: 10 Aug 2025, 18:56 The sub-legends aren't as black as the numbers in your photo.

That is probably true. Besides blue (and am I remembering orange?) there was light and dark "gray", and light and dark "brown".

Those may be what I always called dark gray, as I look closer.

Seems normal to me. Over time, sub-legends were made in many various colors.

I think that you could get a very good price for it.

Green Maned Lion wrote: 26 Jun 2025, 22:08
wife bullied me into buying a keyboard

It is the quietest keyboard I've ever used

I'm a Buckling Spring guy

Read the room, buddy.

the threshold for exactly where that change occurs. If it is any help, my M0115 (orange alps) has a serial of 461344.



Great work on the color refresh!

There have been discussions of serial numbers before, and it appears that different plants changed over from orange to salmon at different ...

I never use "sleep" but I think it is fair to assume that the adapter does not "wake up" until some moments after the motherboard "wakes up" and activates the USB ports.

I always enjoyed the variety, and on a couple of boards I coordinated them with the caps above. I have also dyed a number of them, especially to red for positions like Escape and Delete.

That looks awful. I would scrape off all the corrosion and then clean it well with alcohol. It might work again. Reminds me of battery corrosion.

I might be inclined to replace that cable, too, certainly if it has any corrosion in it. And, if you aren't a purist, put the converter inside and have ...

Absolutely cool!

And the 1390131 is the best Model M, in my opinion.

robo wrote: 18 Apr 2025, 16:12
no choice but to use Model F keyboards for the rest of my life.

I kinda feel that way too, and I am utterly spoilt by the 122 size, but I *might* be able to go down to a small light blue or orange Alps keyboard some day if I end up needing to adapt to a smaller space.

Perhaps not "great" but probably "good"

Won't last long.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/396489465682?mkevt=1&mkpid=0&emsid=e11021.m164380.l178263&mkcid=7&ch=osgood&euid=56418f37ae494476bf15757aabca428b&bu=43208930367&ut=RU&exe=0&ext=0&osub=-1%7E1&crd=20250418060920&segname=11021&recoId=396489465682 ...

Nice. Love the blue sub-legends and the PF series functions.

You would probably have to replace the caps, but barrel inserts have been the standard stabilizers from the late-1980s onward.

anthonyrwolfe wrote: 08 Mar 2025, 09:03
the right switch can have a huge impact on how it feels and performs when typing.

OMG! What a revelation!

Who knew?

I quite like those Compaqs from that era, but they do not have any collector's value.

viewtopic.php?t=13640&sid=627fd9b8cfe34 ... 8a18f28f1e

Perhaps not "Great" but at least good if you are interested in Northgates ....

ebay item 276835751152

For what it's worth, ADB and S-video are pretty much interchangeable.

Salmon and orange are extremely close.

Polecat wrote: 07 Jan 2025, 04:15
SMK MX mount.

wiki/File:SMK_G2_MX_clicky_--_top.jpg

I think these are extremely nice switches, but I have only ever seen them in crappy keyboards.

The AT101W is an excellent chasis, I have one that I transplanted blue ALPS into and it is a joy to use.

The black variant of AT101W is much harder to find and looks much more contemporary.

modelf wrote: 12 Nov 2024, 06:49
It's nice to know about the "washer mod" .... so many years of using these keyboards, never heard of it before.

I think it was the great wcass who dreamed it up about a decade ago.

Great find!
And doubleshot ANSI caps to boot!

a resource that explains how the mod works?



Gravity.
The weight of the washer prevents the wire from jumping up. You may hear a bit of rattle and the "V" or "M" key or whichever will lose a tiny bit of downward travel.

Otherwise a new barrel plate from Unicomp used to cost $10, maybe more ...

I have used washers several times myself. As I recall, it is a 5/16" SAE washer, not an easy one to find.

From my experience they are similar. I prefer the 8923 because it seems sturdier, and I like its clean design better than "chopped corners". But they are probably very similar inside.

Findecanor wrote: 05 Sep 2024, 20:38
PVC with plasticisers which will eat its way into ABS plastic.

Empty paper towel or toilet paper rolls are one way to store coiled cables.

The barrel plate of the Model M does give quite a bit of protection from spills, "liquid flows downhill" is a law of nature.

Are there any current problems? Or have you simply not put it back together yet?

Sounds promising. If I found the clear mylar sheets stuck together I would be suspicious that it was not glue but rather dried drink. I have never done it but maybe dunk them in water briefly to get them apart? Alcohol is a solvent and I would be wary of it softening up the printed traces. If all ...

The easy answer is to set it aside for a couple of days and see if it dries out acceptably on its own. Summer sun might help speed that up.

Taking it completely apart for a thorough cleaning is daunting, but if it is already bolt modded you have a big headstart.

If I were you, I would unscrew all ...

For desoldering on the cheap, I think that a "solder sucker" works pretty well, maybe using the braid to tidy up.

Of course, using the quality, expensive tools is always best.

What I hate is when they have bent all the legs down tight ....