deskthority

Good luck. I'm not sure that I have ever had one that had not started turning gummy.

Not always a problem, but if several are broken in the same area you will have a mushy spot.

I like to use them wherever I can, but if the screw heads won't slip through the holes, then I suppose not.

How long are your screws? M2x8mm screws have plenty of clearance at the back, but the internal assembly is very close to the bottom case shell at the front (space bar row). If some part of the screw or nut is projecting too far, it will interfere with the case. It is a kludge but if the contact is m...

I am only going to be bolt modding one board, i thought of making a jig but i do not have access to a drill press so i will just have to use a hand drill. In the video i recommended the guy uses a pointy file to make pilot holes and it looked like it worked so i am going to give it a shot. Having d...

I feel like I've had to deal with "choosing beggars" trying to talk you down to the absolute lowest price possible, regardless of worth and work that's gone into an item. I understand completely that that is the world of trading .... It just doesn't give me any pleasure and most times stresses me o...

the holes are already there for you to guide yourself, right? I learned the Sandy55 method and that is what I have always done. In that scenario, after cutting off the broken end of the rivet, you want to shave the top of the "mesa" into a smooth flat plane. That shaft is perhaps 3 mm in diameter, ...

I added a bolt to the right of the spacebar barrel, just like in Fohat's F122 guide. I deprecated that portion of the guide years and years ago. I suppose I need to delete that photo with the blue tape. "I do, however, feel that a few (about 3) bolts along the longitudinal center line are helpful. ...

adamcobabe wrote: ↑

06 Sep 2019, 13:20

I highly recommend using a soldering iron with an old sharp tip to melt some pilot holes for the drill.

I have tried that method, but it pushes up a rim of plastic that may or not be balanced.

Easier and more precise is to use the smallest spherical burr tip in your Dremel.

I know it sounds a bit rudimentary, but surely you can just SAW the numpad off a fullsize M's barrel plate? I thought about that as well, though I've never done such a thing. Yes you absolutely can. Make a clean cut and it works fine. Also, even if it is cracked somewhat, the new screws will keep i...

fine bits of fluff from the paracord strands This detail may be significant. I tried using these instead of floss but didn't like it at all. The character of the material is quite different in several ways. I really like the open-weave floss because it is very airy and doesn't do anything but damp ...

davkol wrote: ↑

21 Aug 2019, 13:08

CST L-Trac is the way to go,

I would like to try one of these, but it is way out of my price range. Does anybody know of a knock-off or substitute that is cheaper?

Thanks

CountNoctua wrote: ↑

20 Aug 2019, 23:43

I was hoping to find black or dark colored keycaps,

Apple used thick high-quality PBT caps which dye well.

Look at reply #14 in this thread: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=35 ... #msg658453

Polecat wrote: ↑

18 Aug 2019, 01:26

but now we need four digits zeroes for it to be meaningful: 1999/ 04 / 01.

Fixed that for you.

Format YYYYMMDD or YYYY-MM-DD (including zeroes!) is a format that is most computer-friendly.

If you use it in lists or filenames, dates as characters and/or numbers are always recognized in the proper order.

Mostly off-topic, but you might want to look at reply # 14 in this thread:

https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=35 ... #msg658453

Here, only kbdfr is older than me.

On GH, every time I am about to think that I am oldest, terrapin will pop up and edge me out by a few months.

I love this one.

Let's see if mine uploads/downloads properly.

Did not know that, except about the ISO Enters.

Is there a matching long Left Shift?

I don't think that you will find any of these, with the exception of the numpad Enter. From personal experience, and I have only a few dozen to go by, the symbol markings are only found on the earliest terminals. Only a very very few of the earliest Model Ms had wire stabilizers on any key but space...

the 24 PF keys at the top. I kept 2 sets of Function keys, on the left I made the old F9 into F11 (full screen) and the old F10 into Windows. Above, I use the bottom row as straight F1-F12, and the upper row has, left-to-right, F13=Escape, F14=calculator, F15=NumLock (only to turn NumLock back on a...

I once swapped a full set of switches and it was a nightmare.

NMB Hi-Teks have mere wires for legs, and no strain relief. I wrecked at least 5%-10% of them trying to get them in and out.

That color scheme is awesome!

What a beauty! Hardly any yellowing at all and well <$100 shipped.

Somebody should pounce on it.

My Lenovo laptop is great, and has a nice but small touch screen.

That price was stunning, and when I looked at the Weight = 5 lbs there was no way I was interested.

Farther down in the specifications it said 200 grams including battery which makes a lot more sense, and is probably too light.

That white Apple rubber dome about halfway through was one of the most abominable keyboards ever (my daughter (about 12 at the time)) had one and loved it because it was "cute" ....

Pure soggy mush, and the author called it "a joy" to type on!

The barrel plate is the same a a standard M with the end cut off. You could easily do that.

Since you are doing a bolt mod anyway, you can repair a barrel plate with old-fashioned model cement and the screws will hold it in place.

That case is going to be a lot harder to come by.

I always use pull-up resistors as a matter of course when wiring up a Teensy, and some keyboards (Leading Edge 2014 is another) there is a 5th connection "reset" that must be wired in.

Gotta love those bar code labels. I wish I had one.