deskthority

Northgate Bob http://www.northgate-keyboard-repair.com/ for Alps switches

and clicky keyboards https://www.clickykeyboards.com/ for IBM

are your best bets for "sure things", although they will not be the cheapest sources.

edit - Oh No! How could I have possibly forgotten Cindy?

An easy test is to put a tiny drop of acetone on the back side and swirl it around. A cap that is PBT will ignore the acetone but a cap that is ABS will soften and be etched by the acetone.

If you are not concerned with purity or appearance, a washer with hot glue on the back side works well.

pandrew wrote: ↑

14 Nov 2020, 00:28

if anyone's throwing out parts

Anybody on DT is likely to know how precious Model F parts are.

There seems to be very little space for bolt heads or nuts at the bottom, especially on the first row or two. After scraping off the rivets, you're left with slightly protruding round bits. Without washers the there is just enough room for the M2s to fit. If yours are interfering, you can use a Dre...

That is an easy question. Microsoft Wheel Mouse Optical late-1990s era.

New on ebay $25, used $10-$15. I keep several on hand, it is inevitable that they will wear out after a few years.

Of course, the "mission" of most thrift stores is to generate money for their particular cause, not to provide collector's items for their customers at a fraction of their real value. These days, someone in the back room can easily look online to see what a realistic selling price would be on the op...

I have never seen an Omnikey without a metal back (but remember that it is powder coated beige and is the same color as the top shell). The only ones that I have kept are 101s because I require a straight-ANSI layout.

Straighten out a paper clip and bend a tiny "J" in the end. Reach in and grab the lip at the bottom, pulling straight up.

You do not want to scratch or damage the inside of the column.

Tricky tricky.

Not letting viewers see the side of the keyboard with Enter and Backspace to determine its layout.

"I was able to find it at an auction for one of the original apple 1 computers that sold for over 400K"

I think that I remember that from a few years ago. As I recall, it was serial number 00002 or it once belonged to Wozniak, or both, or something outlandish like that.

Wafer wrote: ↑

16 Sep 2020, 23:58

the mounting holes are identical

IBM was fanatic about keeping everything consistent and universal. You can cut a full-size barrel plate, and you can also use a full-size membrane by wrapping it around the back (don't cut it).

In my opinion, when something is listed at a fair "Buy-It-Now" price, you should jolly well just Buy-It-Now and be done. Putting in a low-ball offer "just because" will sometimes knock you out of getting something you really want. And, as a seller, I always ignore any sort of "offer" in the first 24...

seemingly the only authorized one Soarer abruptly went dark about 5 years ago (or was it more?) to the chagrin of the community. Orihalcon has been making his cables for years and is a member here. You should just ask him directly, but my guess is that the answer is no, since the circuitry had to b...

In 1992 there was a 5-part TV mini-series on the history of computing. It was momentarily released on VHS at the time but has been unavailable since. Here it is and it is fascinating. As someone who turned 40 years old in the year of its release and who had been using computers for well under a deca...

The big thing about the Leading Edge keyboards is that the arguably best Alps switch is in arguably the best chassis for Alps switches which also arguably has the best Alps key caps. The big thing about the Leading Edge 2014 is that it is just about the only reasonably available keyboard that is a ...

I have used this with good success:

https://us.amazon.com/EliteKeyboards-Me ... B00CZIZBTK

Even though what he is doing is ‘legal’ it’s not ethical. I disagree. I have bought things without reading and understanding everything that was said, and for that I l suffered. But I look at what you posted and see a very clear and unambiguous description. To read "the original switches have been ...

I am always wary of painted plastic as in some case the paint comes off rather too easily Never underestimate the usefulness of soaking if you don't want to do too much scrubbing. The Model F cases have a shiny white inner core of plastic with another, off-white top coat that includes/produces the ...

I am not interested in your deal, but I recommend that you include a few photos.

Also, you should say whether your "ANSI mod" includes shortening the space bar and adding Alt keys, that might make it quite a bit more enticing.

From a couple of years ago. I would prefer a tactile or clicky one in either full-size or TKL, bamboo case, but let me know if you have one that you don't want or need.

Thanks

I would not use citrus cleaner except for removing adhesive residue, and then immediately wash with soap and water. I prefer powdered laundry detergent with a plastic dish scrubber. You will need to remove the case from the internal assembly to clean it properly. My guide might provide some general ...

I know IBM did enhanced-layout rubber done keyboards - I also have a KB-7953 The 8923 came before the 7953 and is a bit more sturdy and classically styled. It came in both black and beige and with and without a trackpoint. Model Ms and M2s with rubber domes have part numbers beginning with "7"

I am a big advocate of foam, as anybody can tell from my guides, but I like it for the stability of the barrels and the tight feel that the compression ensures in the overall assembly. Model Fs are notoriously sensitive to grounding issues and those grounding wires always need to be secure and tight...

I didn't read this thread because I hate coiled cables, but this has always been the go-to guide:

https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=82 ... msg2174146

wcass created the original version, and still the best. https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=45089.msg939658#msg939658 It is imperfect, but works pretty well. The "spline" (or whatever you want to call it) in the F case is kind of a clunky concept, but marrying the metal to the plastic must have see...

I've also heard of some people using the Mr. Clean Magic Eraser pads for scuff marks They don't look it, but those are surprisingly abrasive. They will quickly remove the texture if you aren't careful. I use laundry detergent (powder) and a plastic dishwashing pad and/or toothbrush. Alcohol is an e...

enrique.aliaga wrote: ↑

21 Aug 2020, 00:40

I wasn't aware that the cases of 1st generation Models M122 were compatible with Models F122

https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=45 ... #msg939658

hellothere wrote: ↑

20 Aug 2020, 22:04

Here we go. 1987 IBM Model M 122 with 90 degree DIN. Also $65, including shipping.

This one is not first generation. Adapting it for F-122 use is much more difficult and less satisfactory.

gianni wrote: ↑

20 Aug 2020, 11:47

Furthermore, for converting from ANSI to ISO I suppose that you need to take apart the keyboard,

Contact them directly. I am 95% certain that they would sell you an ISO board.