deskthority

A white whale with some keycaps changed (that one black one, urgh):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/IBM-2682678-Dis ... 48712c52b5

I had to file the original cable hole slightly larger, but other than that there were no modifications made to the case. I haven't actually tried this, but it looks like if I were to put the original cable back in place, the larger hole wouldn't be noticeable at all.

I had my Teensy mounted in my XT model F for a while. I put it between the pieces that held the original strain relief block in place and put enough hot glue around it to keep the board from moving at all. It worked wonderfully for about a year, but one day it cracked and broke. My new mounting ...

andrewjoy wrote:Hope that this one make it feel more like a model M"ushy"

If you want a mushy keyboard, just get a new one from Logitech.

Ah, okay, thanks. So will the kits contain any extra barrels needed, then? I don't have any keyboard I could take one out of at the moment.

One question about those layouts: how will the right shift key be stabilized? I count 83 keys on the last one, but wouldn't the right shift require an 84th barrel for stabilization (if we're using Unicomp right shift keys)?

That aside, I love the Akimbo-ISO layout. It can keep all the best parts of ...

__red__ wrote:You can also send your gerbers to china and get 10 boards for 90c each. Predictable, repeatable etc...

If you don't mind waiting a month to continue testing, that is.

If I remember right, the first thing the controller does is calibrate the pads' sensitivity values in the assumption that no key is pressed.

I'm not so sure about that. I just unplugged mine, pressed and held the F key, and plugged it back in, and it was spitting out F's like no tomorrow. I ...

Just a thought: perhaps the copper is the wrong thickness. That might have the potential to cause oversensitivity, but depending on how sensitive this thing is, there are many variables that could affect it. The wires getting close to each other between the two boards, maybe.

Also, I see you still ...

I'd say nut/bolt. The slot/tab thing is scary to assemble/disassemble.

From the little bit of etching I did, I found that the Scotch Brite works best with acetone. When you're done with that, wipe the whole thing with an acetone-moistened paper towel, and the board should be very clean and shiny. Rinsing it with water afterwards might be a good idea.

I think it would be very neat for this mod to also add LEDs to the case of the keyboard. Though that wouldn't be trivial (milling the case to recess the label would be tricky), the LEDs are one of the things I miss most on the XT keyboard.

I've etched PCBs before, but only single-sided boards. I'm guessing that for a double sided board, the iron-on method I used wouldn't work very well, as things would tend to get misaligned. For all I know, though, there's some obvious trick that I'm just not thinking of. Maybe a CNC mill would work ...

I must say, I find this to be a very interesting idea. When I had an XT keyboard open fully (I still wish I hadn't pried off the spacebar (broke one of the feet getting it back together, but glued it back together), but it was a learning experience), I noticed it looked very modular, and I thought ...