deskthority

All three of them sound great but the LE3014 stands out the most. Those blue alps are deeep.

Agreed, the batch of MX Browns in my QuickFire Rapid are very smooth and are some of my favorite switches. But the MX Blacks in my G80-11900 are awful.

At least they aren't rubber domes.

Oh, wait, I forgot about Topre

You should never have to lube Alps. They're inherently very smooth switches, as long as they're clean and not heavily used.

I've tried click-modding Orange Alps by using a click leaf from White Alps.

Worth it.

A tactile grey switch on a linear keyboard? That's odd, maybe they had an excess of them at the time.

Daniel Beardsmore wrote: ↑ PS your Alps integrated dome switches wouldn't suffer from being cropped, as cropped images fill more of the gallery thumbnails.

I was actually planning on doing that today I'm also going to add some internal pics of the BTC 5100C and disassembly photos for BTC dome with sliders.

Those are some amazing caps. I've always loved blue legends. IIRC Tai-Hao makes a set of "Olivetti" double-shot ABS keycaps, but they have absolutely nothing on these. Believe me, I'm a fan of double-shots, but.. these are in a league of their own. And if I were you, I would fix up that keyboard. My...

Indeed, branding can be very confusing. A lot of Chicony boards use the KB-xxxx model number, but I have seen a few non-Chicony keyboards use that naming scheme, too. At least the Silitek/NMB keyboards are relatively easy to spot out. I have seen quite a lot of these keyboards with the sliders on th...

Nope, that other dome acts as the > or \ key that you'd see next to the left shift key on an ISO layout. It's actually the opposite; the slider integrated into the keycap (not the rectangular Alps-like peg) acts to stabilize the keycap and does not register a keypress without the black slider. It lo...

This is almost as hard to look at as that one manual for some old Alps board telling you to "glue keycaps to the switches", except the latter is, well, disastrous. And immoral.

Not really, the key otherwise doesn't work without the slider in place, and there is already a stabilizer bar present on the first picture.

I always thought there was only one variant of BTC dome with sliders. Apparently I was wrong :P I've noticed that many of the newer BTC keyboards use these rectangular sliders on the stabilized keys, likely to simplify the chassis construction and cut manufacturing costs. 1.jpg I've only ever seen t...

I can only imagine hauling around a Model F122 all day

Are Cherry MX Silent Reds quieter than Matias Quiet Linears? I just realized that it will be hard to find blank PBT Alps caps for a reasonable price.

I use an iPad for school, and I've been wanting to use a mechanical keyboard for a while now. I've been working off of a scissor-switch dome keyboard which is virtually inaudible, but not much fun to type on. That and we can't use bluetooth anymore, so I feel like now is the time to start using a me...

... though I still like my 84-key Alps board ... By "84-key Alps board", do you mean 75% board? Do they exist? :oops: (Or are you talking about TKL?) I like those 75% layout a lot. Yes, a 75% Alps keyboard with genuine, complicated White Alps. It's called the Ortek MKB-84SX. There are a few differe...

I guess I'm just going to have to find a really cheap Topre board second-hand, then. $250 is a bit too much for me.

But at least I now know that I'll like Topre. A lot.

I wouldn't go that far, let's just say Topre is in my top 5 favorite switches. ;) I'm sure they're not the best switches out there, but they are definitely the best that I myself have tried. I expect Topre to be quite better, but these domes are very good. Probably because I got my BTC 5100c in min...

I just got a BTC dome with sliders keyboard in the mail and... let's just say that I'm highly impressed. I didn't really know what to expect, but these blow away every single rubber dome I've ever tried by a huge margin. There is no doubt in my mind that these are the best switches I've ever tried. ...

I never used the numpad enter during my entire life :D But ... it's the best enter ... you can hit it with the thumb of your mouse-hand. Exactly, that's what I do too! :D I used to be huge on small layouts, and though I still like my 84-key Alps board, full-size layouts grow on me more every single...

The ribbon isn't separating, seems like it's all just one piece. How do I get this coating off of it?

The break is near the end, so it should be easy to expose. I'll try messing with it this afternoon.

fohat wrote: ↑ The blue Cherry switches are the worst-sounding switches in the universe. Landing pads help.

Tell that to the gamers on YouTube who think that MX Blues sound better than Blue Alps or IBM BS

I have a Model M that is in practically mint condition, but the membrane's ribbon connector bent and snapped in a few places. The socket on the controller is otherwise fine, and there are practically no broken rivets. The membrane ribbon got damaged by some force when I was cleaning the ribbon conta...

I've never actually had a case where lubing Alps made them feel any better aside from linears. If you're trying to lube clicky Alps clones, don't even bother.

Alps are really growing on me again. There goes any chance of me saving money.

I'd be better off if my Model M actually worked. The membrane connector is broken yet everything else is in perfect shape. Only two broken rivets and they're the least important ones on the entire board.

It's almost as if it's aware, like it's taunting me on purpose.

What makes it even better is that it probably wouldn't even work with those o-rings on. Either it wouldn't do anything at all or it would render the key inoperable.

You would have to use blanks for it, but I think it looks great. I've always thought that the numpad needed a backspace and tab key. Not to mention the = key, it feels really weird using the numpad and jumping over several keys just to hit the = key.