deskthority

You'll definitely need to remove the rust before you paint it but sandblasting and all that isn't necessary. I would: Remove the switches Get the bulk of the rust off with a wire brush or 220 grit sandpaper Soak the plate in Evapo-rust and rinse Get it pretty smooth with some 220-800 grit sandpaper ...

Awesome work! I wish I had these CAD files before I went and made my own fake SSK (still WIP, got sidetracked with a different project). https://i.imgur.com/pt5rmTD.jpg https://i.imgur.com/Ilrfur5.jpg I cut down one of the new Unicomp 104s to make mine since it's nice to have L/R GUI keys - just an ...

how's the battery life? what QMK keyboard did you use as base? I haven't done too much testing on battery life yet; I'll see how long it lasts starting now I guess. My computer boots to a GRUB menu which doesn't have BT support so I mostly use it in USB mode. I plant to make one of the CSR8510 HID ...

Hey I grabbed one of those too! If it's any use, here's some pics of the bare PCB on mine: https://i.imgur.com/3BTs3Sw.jpg https://i.imgur.com/oqfFQCE.jpg https://i.imgur.com/wiaVQgK.jpg Ignore the pen marks on the back. I was going to try adding diodes to make it NKRO/USB but I'm probably going to ...

I think most people go with a dry silicone/PTFE lube if any at all. I've had a couple pretty scratchy model Ms that were fixed with a good cleaning of the barrels and key stems - worth a try if you haven't already.

Armed with some 8% peroxide, large plastic bags, and a sous vide cooker I went about the un-yellowing. https://i.imgur.com/kaD4IM4.jpeg I tried to not go too overboard on it, just get rid of the bit of orange tint it was picking up. https://i.imgur.com/na6eGXX.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/xiB1Pld.jpeg I...

The plastic will have long disintegrated before the brass even tarnishes. Peroxide baths are not particularly good for plastic but the difference is minimal. If the color bothers you it's well worth going for it as the KB wouldn't be doing much else anyways. Keep shadows and uneven exposure in mind ...

Depending on the adhesive, you might have some luck with hot air and a thin plastic blade. If you absolutely can't remove it, I'd cover it with some kapton tape and do the peroxide bath as normal. There's tons of places that do small batch vinyl stickers. If you can manage to get it off reasonably u...

Finally got back to working on this project. I had to extend my printer's build volume to get this as a single print (glueing smaller prints together is for wimps). Turns out carbon fiber PETG is pretty hard to get good looking prints with. I'll probably go with some hammered paint since it will hid...

As far as voltage goes, the controller and matrix would still operate on 3.3/5V (depending on the controller). Most project boards can easily take in the epson's 12V supply and regulate it down to what they need. The FTDI chip or logic level converters is what would convert the data signals between ...

I've always thought that retro-modding tech is worth it. IMO as long as you keep the character of the original, there's nothing wrong with tastefully adding functionality. Thinking about it, there might be an option 3.5. It'd still entail a full matrix replacement but there's no reason you couldn't ...

I was describing using the whole computer as a way to access a text terminal running on a modern PC. If you are only interested in using the KB you have a few options: 1. A protocol adapter will work with significant limitations (no held key detection, 1kro, etc.) but will keep functionality with th...

I took one of the switches apart and tried a couple different lubes I had on hand. Pure silicone seemed to be smoothest overall but it wasn't noticeably better than the unopened switches; I decided to just leave them as is. The matrix could have been neater but I wanted to keep it close to square si...

I'd be glad to help you learn! You'd need either a DB9 or DB25 (depending on what the epson has) RS232 to USB adapter and a computer running Linux. You can probably get a DOS/powershell prompt with a Windows PC but I've never tried it. On the Linux PC you set the serial configuration either on boot ...

I grabbed a good condition Apple M0110 recently and plan to give it a bit of a modernization. I gave it a quick test with a TMK protocol adapter and man, these are some smooth switches! They all seem to work and feel fine, should I go through the effort of pulling them apart, cleaning, and lubing? I...

It'd be pretty similar to Soarer's converter but there's a good chance this KB doesn't operate on 5V so you might need some logic level converters. Even with a fully implemented protocol it might lack functionality making it hard to use on a modern computer. Your best bet would be to socket a conver...

If you want to use the computer as a whole it'd be pretty straight-forward to get a shell from a modern computer going on it. I've done similar with a dumb terminal and raspberry pi for text games, BBS, etc.

That should work

So how do you attach them? Sorry for my my lack of knowledge in soldering The FPC connectors basically have a little metal clip inside that clamps onto the ribbon cable's contact. That clip extends outside of the plastic housing with a nice big patch that a wire can be soldered to (kind of like an ...

Using a couple 1.0mm pitch FPC connectors seems to work! A pin lines up with each trace and there's no shorts. They are all measuring under 1 Ohm with about 0.4 Ohm average.

Digikey #: WM7097CT-ND

I don't own a model m but i came across part numbers for the membrane socket in the 101 key here. That's what was in my OG model M and what I assumed the 104 key would use as well. Unfortunately those are 2.54mm spacing where the Unicomp uses 2.0mm and a single 24 pin connector. https://i.imgur.com...

pandrew wrote: ↑

06 Nov 2020, 21:42

Hey!

What do you mean by FSSK and membrane?

My bad, didn't realize that wasn't clear. I'm making a fake-ssk out of a Unicomp 104 key. I'm trying to reuse the Unicomp membrane but not the stock controller board which has a different connection method than a normal 101 key model M.

I'm making a fake-SSK out of a Unicomp 104 key and can't figure out a good way to attach to the membrane. It melts immediately on the lowest temp my soldering station can go (200C). Silver epoxy and carbon glue seem to break off very easily even if I rough up the traces with a glass fiber pen. I had...