deskthority

Does it really need screw holes? Thinking double sided tape...

Yep - I suck at it. My reflow looks pretty, but works poorly. My iron work looks awful and usually just doesn't work too. I really should stick with what I am good at, stop trying to solder things myself, and start relying more on this very cooperative community. Meh - all good // plenty of other s...

Came down to solder huh?

Sounds like a good time was had by all. If you do get a change to meet elecplus, I recommend it.

I wouldn't think it would work if you had anything between the PCB and the flippers. You wouldn't change the capacitance of the pads enough for the controller to pick up if you did.

I do agree with re-using the rubber matt between the PCB and the bottom plate - much more elegant than tape.

Yeah, an RPi has more than enough horsepower and expansion ability, but you would still need to build the cap-sense portion of the controller. wcass - I'd sign up to help with this controller, but I don't have ready access to a scope in TX or VA (where I am most of the time). Maybe the next time I a...

Until there is a new version of the Logitech Trackman FX, I will continue using and repairing those...

Without a scope to see what the rate is; I would just swag it. You have a pair of 30pF caps now (C1=C2), and it appears not to be working (or in other words if CS was 3, then your 30pF should be good for an 18CL on the crystal). So I think we can ASS-U-ME that the CS =/= 3. If we go with a CS=4, the...

That EEPROM is getting exposed to light...

Both C1 and C2 are 30pF? If yes and assuming the PCB has a stray capacitance of 4pF gives: CL = (C1 * C2) / (C1 + C2) + Cstray ((30*30)/(30+30))+4 = 19CL [close to the 18CL specified] C1, C2 = 2*CL – 2*Cstray Or, (2*18)-(2*4) = 28pF [close to the 30pF caps used] If CS=3, then the 30pF and 18CL value...

Techno Trousers wrote: ↑

0100010 wrote:Why not buy a new 103 key barrel plate from Unicomp and cut it down?

Is that drop in compatible with the old cases? If so I'll definitely consider it for my FEXT(s)

Not sure. But I think they are only like 10 bucks, maybe worth a test.

Now you just need split spacebar support using Code keys and fill in the missing key positions between the 6 pack and arrow keys. Split the 7x spacebar into 2.75 + 1.5 + 2.75, like this : http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/#/layouts/23b0f3404b96cc728237c8b982c9916a And the keycaps ? 2.75x spaceb...

Why not buy a new 103 key barrel plate from Unicomp and cut it down?

More info about it here : https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=43505.0;nowap

Please do not contact Jim Thatcher though.

If you look from the back edge of the USB connector - do the pins look like they are all in contact with the board? I've been staring at your layout and the populated PCB pics for a while now - I don't see anything wrong with it. I can't see what is under the USB connector though. I am curious if yo...

Now you just need split spacebar support using Code keys and fill in the missing key positions between the 6 pack and arrow keys.

Split the 7x spacebar into 2.75 + 1.5 + 2.75, like this : http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/# ... b982c9916a

wcass wrote: ↑

Engicoder wrote: ↑It looks like there is a via in the VCC line off the connector that goes to the ground plane on the back, but I may be mis-interpreting it.

Thanks for looking Engicoder.
that is a silkscreen layer (green) dot to mark pin 1. sorry, the picture is not clearer.

What is C6 for?

I would just have folded the controller under the bottom plate using slightly longer wires.

Also remember that xwhatsit made his controller as wide as it was because of the original ribbon cable width and to fit at least one of the grounding / mount points.

Ellipse wrote: ↑FYI all - I am hoping to use this redesigned controller with the F62/F77 keyboards.

Why? Seems better to me to use a proven design, especially for touting a complete working product.

Blackish

https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=52394.300

Ellipse wrote: ↑ -snip- We have already gone through Preparations A through G, and now we have the next one up

andrewjoy wrote: ↑

andrewjoy wrote: ↑Its pebble ( the modifier colour) that they have in 1x1 )

if you want pearl then you need to order 20,000 caps.

So who is up for a 1 part group buy !

Only if you include blank black right shifts and 7x white spacebars.

Here are the stab insert locations.

ANSI


ISO

Not sure if this helps, but we are all subject to Unicomps keycap dye-sub quality and positioning (including the caps for this project), unless you source caps from older Model M's or F's. I can think of only one other source for caps, and they are not cheap.

Sorry if this has already been answered, but it's not clear to me whether a split left shift requires a modified layout. Will the stick layout allow to split the left shift? Left shift has barrel positions that would allow either the standard 2.25 key or an ISO short left shift (1.25x) and the 1x n...

Should also be able to do 1.5u backslash, 1.25u enter, and a 1u to the left of it right? Not that I have any intention of doing so because that would be weird. Yes, that's a valid combo too. Being used to an ANSI enter, I would have a tough time with a long reach to enter like that, but for those u...

Or, drawn a different way :

I understand these keyboards, but I don't understand your diagram! Hence the 'crudely' moniker above it - an artist, I am not. The drawing itself is of AT style Model F barrels, in the spacing necessary for whatever width key is appropriate. Take the normal 62 key layout : http://s10.postimg.org/tk...