deskthority

Here are some more pics of the completed keyboard - top.jpg bottom.jpg alpha close.jpg All I need now are some adhesive pads to call this complete! Regarding the 2nd keyboard, I've fixed the bottom plate by hitting it with a hammer a few times over a block of soft wood. This has worked really well b...

Update 2 - Got it back together. Bar clamp method didn't work one bit, most likely because the foam was too thick. This time, the keycaps went on first try for the most part. Everything works however the keys sometimes the keys activate random ones but that's probably down to the fact that it's a 30...

Update - Foam has arrived however some cockwomble from the place I bought it decided to fold it in the middle. No, it wasn't a flat parcel, it was a tube. They folded it and rolled it. After punching out the holes (and slicing my finger in the process), the holes are VERY out of line because of the ...

If it's any consolation, it probably wasn't worth it. It's been like 2 weeks now and its still not finished. I've even had to borrow a bar clamp!

Yeah sadly it seems like its switch roulette. I'l wait for the seller to get back to me and hopefully they take my offer!

Hey everyone (for the third time, lol) - what switches would a non-stepped Chicony KB-5160 have? The FCC ID ends in XT which I can't seem to find anything about. I figured Omrons but I want to be safe. Thanks!

I recently spotted an Alphameric keyboard on ebay coincidentally a day after Chyros' video was uploaded and decided to bid knowing what I would receive. There is no outer case like the few examples I've seen but it is possibly NOS as it is still in its plastic bag (not sure if original, but its a pe...

A sign? more like a cry for help

Bottom plate is currently waiting for it's last coat of paint but it's raining (expected in the UK) so I can't get that finished just yet.

Hooked up my teensy converter I made using an old midi jack and everything worked well in Aqua apart from the occasional key getting stuck and sometimes not registering. I decided to close Aqua and open a text doc to type it's first words in many years. The result?:

Yup, I made sure to tilt the board back. Now that I think about it, completely removing the springs from the flipper might have caused it - I pulled a few springs with tweezers and re-seated them and that did the trick for most. It might explain why they actuate when bottomed out, too (or that could...

I thought it could be that but the flippers would be completely stuck if they had surely? all the flippers move fine but the keys feel extremely spongy and not responsive. Maybe I aught to invest in a bar clamp, take it apart and put it back together.

Okay so after placing all the barrels & flippers in, I managed to get everything clamped down. I hammered the plate until it was slid in place. I've noticed while putting on the keycaps that maybe 20 or so springs don't buckle at all no matter how I install the cap. Other keys feel very loose and no...

Thanks, hoping to have it together in the next few days. The hole punch arrived but like the idiot I am, I forgot to order a 2-3mm one for the alignment lugs. The main holes are all punched out and hopefully correct. The bottom case is primed but I need to buy some white paint before I can continue ...

Forbidden pineapple juice!

John Doe wrote: ↑

04 Mar 2019, 06:34

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What I got after Vapor-Rust using, its really like magic, thanks guys.

Looking good, might try it myself at some point (when I can afford the stuff!)

Update on keyboard 2: definitely more rusted....... rust plate.jpg The bottom plate is also bent in the corner (if anyone knows a good fix, please let me know!) bent plate.jpg Oh, and the keycaps smell awful. A smell I can only describe as sadness. I don't know what I've gotten myself into but I don...

Surprisingly the springs (from what I saw) are really clean and the bottom pan looks clean but the internals look like they've been submerged in the ocean since 1986... I mean how does this even happen to a keyboard? rust.jpg MBS whoever they are (presumably the company that ripped out the IBM badge...

Managed to get another F XT from the same seller. Jesus. Fucking. Christ. It might be even more rustier than the first. The top of the barrel plate has thick corrosion and the back plate is bent. If he gets any more I'm definitely asking for a lower price...

Maybe not the right place but can anyone help me identify this old computer/keyboard combo that was in my dad's office? That’s an Olivetti M20: http://www.z80ne.com/m20/ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Olivetti_M20 I’ve never seen this computer in person, but I recognized the Olivetti style. We had O...

Thanks, I only paid about £27 for it which I feel is alright but in hindsight I could have offered less and got it. I doubt it will be worth a lot more once restored but al least it will work

So today I've spent a bit (a lot) of time in Photoshop recreating the rear sticker. It isn't perfect and since I don't own an IBM dot matrix printer, the numbers aren't spot on but I'm pretty happy with it.

Just looking at it makes my wrists hurt! If I were my dad, I would have stuck something under the front and used those books as a wrist rest

Holy shit those are some of the worst springs I've seen! I considered trying a contact cleaner but it's very similar to WD40 so I doubt it would work. The corrosion seems really stubborn on the springs and other metals which is strange because vinegar normally works fine for me.

Maybe not the right place but can anyone help me identify this old computer/keyboard combo that was in my dad's office? Sorry for the blurry pic, best I could get

much appreciated, I have ordered a sheet of foam that should work.

Thanks for the tips! what thickness do you suggest for the foam?

On the weekend, I finally popped my Model F cherry - I grabbed it on ebay after the seller kindly opened the auction to offers. The pictures didn't show much other than some rust spots on the back plate and two cracks in the top plate. The only thing missing so far is a single spring. The rear stick...

Cheers mate!

As the title says - is the IBM 1389148 a membrane model M or capacitive model F? It has the standard model F metal backplate but the model number indicates its an M. Any help appreciated!

Update - Pulled the spacebar and there is a sticker underneath confirming it is a Datasaab keyboard (Type E00101 0100). Switches are Clare-Pendar SF 5101 (magnetic reed). After seeing it in person, I am confident somebody took an old Datasaab keyboard, desoldered the switches, put them in a strange...