deskthority

I'd like to participate this year too! A "soft" limit for upper value would be nice, if someone wants to splurge it's fine, but it shouldn't cause high expectations from the rest.

Yeap, it's here, I need to contact Mr Interface to arrange the return trip...

Edit: Just did.

Those are sixty's auctions

I still have to seriously mark a case from melamine foam. I use it always wet and with very light pressure. And that is after I have tried a kitchen sponge with the usual solvents.

Welcome!
Try some "magic eraser", they are melamine sponges that are slightly abrasive and will remove it from the surface without hurting the finish. If it's deeper I have no idea what you can do...

Techno Trousers wrote: ↑...and drop it into one of Unicomp's overstock industrial gray cases (still being sold)...

Didn't we grab the last of them in the MF project?

Maybe it's just the top that is unseated. Try pushing the top in before desoldering. If it doesn't fix it, drevyek is probably right.

webwit wrote: ↑I'm cancelling the cancellation. Behold the new DTA16 kingpin!

Hey, 15 hours is too little time to gather responses! Don't despair! I can probably help as well with a few items off that list! DT awards a must!

Seems a bit sketchy to be honest. 1.5mm steel is not easy to perforate, imagine your hand after 20-30 holes...if the tool is stiff enough. If he is willing to back his design (If it's not useable for at least 110 holes you pay nothing) then it might be worth a try. If you plan to use it for more tha...

Wodan get any washer that is about 1,5mm thick and take a look at the edges. One will be a bit rounded and the other sharp. It works like a cookie cutter. Unless I understood something wrong from the OP!

For the love of god...it was just a joke Duck! Why do you subject us to such monstrosities?

Yeah, I got it the first time! But the Crocs office was too tempting!

I like black as an option as well! I suppose most of us will use a black USB cable anyway, so it will match!

Fohat needs a light to illuminate the keyboard (if I understand it correctly), so a transistor or mosfet will be needed, controlled by the teensy output. I'm on the phone now, can't really add details...

I know! :lol: I've had a quick shuffle through a lot of the IBM manuals on bitsavers, some are extremely technical, from a time that IBM expected customer's engineers to work on the machines, and some are taking the user by the hand and pampering them. I guess that depends whether the system was mea...

chzel wrote: ↑ I saw the technique in one of IBM's manuals for the keyboard, but I can't remember which. I'll try to find it later!

Found it!
Here, page 37 onwards
and
here, page 161

Nice! You seem to have a ton of restoration work ahead! A helpful tip: if you flip the "sandwich" you can screw it baack to the base and thus protect the stems from damage. Much more secure than books! Here's a pic from my restoration to illustrate the point: https://deskthority.net/resources/image/...

I just searched my photos, and I have this photo of my second SSK from when I screw-modded it, and it doesn't have the extra switch location...So definitely not an SSK thing...

I have one of these from a rubber dome Model M I had (it was under the spacebar, probably to assist the dome with the lifting), and have it on my SSK!

Might be obvious, but are you sure you put the membranes in the right order and orientation?

What the fuck happened to this?

I have much respect for Kontaktchemie products, so if you have access do use it. As you get more and more hands on with old keyboards and electronics in general, you will find IPA an indispensable tool, so try to get some (1L goes a long way).

All hail Beamspring!
Nice one Khers!

IPA (not beer, isopropyl alcohol) is your best bet, or a specialised contact cleaner.

adhoc wrote: ↑I can't but recommend it. Sell off your old one and get this one instead. Who needs a colour screen on a calculator?

adhoc wrote: ↑"I don't need it, therefore nobody needs it."

Oh the irony...

I've been using an fx-82 solar for ages...

Have a look at Easy AVR, it's one of the firmwares Phantom can use, and it's quite powerful and easy to use.

@seebart: That latched CapsLock would not work for me -- this is where my Ctrl key would go. However, I recall seeing a way to remove the latching mechanism. Alternatively, I suppose the switch could be replaced with a standard Alps switch. https://deskthority.net/photos-f62/chzel-s-apple-pie-err-m...

It's not much of a scandal, but it is rather idiotic and feels like change just for the sake of change. Like the 1 USB port Macbook, now there are "adapters"/port multipliers for sale. They essentially moved the audio jack outside the phone. And users will either have to throw more money at the issu...