Sorry for so much posts but this is really crazy.
So i want to buy a wrist wrest, 205g0, lube station +, gk61, wire clippers, etc.
And the total came out to 287$
Thats.... a lot of money.
Bear in mind that its not all the keeb
Its things i can use on other keebs aka accessories
like 205g0 lube st..
yeah you get it.
What do you think?
How can i lower it?
*Sigh* if i cant then ill buy it anyway just at a fortune
Building my first keeb. Final came out to 287$ 😮
- KhalifaAdam
- Location: Magyarország
- Main keyboard: Asus K7
- Main mouse: Logitech G502
- Favorite switch: Gateron Silver
- TNT
- Location: Germany, Karlsruhe
- Main keyboard: Ellipse Model F77 / Zenith Z-150
- Main mouse: Logitech G203 Prodigy
- Favorite switch: It's complicated
- DT Pro Member: 0250
Mhh, if it's that much of a problem leave out the lube station and similar stuff like this. Stick to the essentials, yk?
I know how easy it is to get carried away when shopping like this. Think about what is absolutely necessary for you right now. You can still buy the rest of the stuff later when you need it more.
I know how easy it is to get carried away when shopping like this. Think about what is absolutely necessary for you right now. You can still buy the rest of the stuff later when you need it more.
Last edited by TNT on 12 Sep 2021, 11:44, edited 1 time in total.
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- Location: US
- Main keyboard: Omnikey 102 Blackheart
- Main mouse: Kensington Expert Mouse
- Favorite switch: White Alps
- DT Pro Member: 0174
This is my perspective:
* I never got the whole switch cracking/lubing/modification thing. Especially today, when there are a bazillion variants (especially of linear and tactile MX-mount switches), won't you get more predictable results, with less risk of breaking switches and losing parts, by just buying a switch that's how you want it STOCK?
* Assuming the "GK61" is the ~$60 hot-swap kit board, what do you need the clippers for? It doesn't look like it has through hole diodes to have to cut.
* If we saw an itemized list, I'm suspecting there are places that you could economize more. What switches and keycaps are you using?
Your total is actually not that outlandish. If you start to get stuff custom cut, the price really jumps. I paid like $150 for the plates for my current board ALONE. Admittedly, it is a 120%, but with zero economy of scale, the prices are brutal.
* I never got the whole switch cracking/lubing/modification thing. Especially today, when there are a bazillion variants (especially of linear and tactile MX-mount switches), won't you get more predictable results, with less risk of breaking switches and losing parts, by just buying a switch that's how you want it STOCK?
* Assuming the "GK61" is the ~$60 hot-swap kit board, what do you need the clippers for? It doesn't look like it has through hole diodes to have to cut.
* If we saw an itemized list, I'm suspecting there are places that you could economize more. What switches and keycaps are you using?
Your total is actually not that outlandish. If you start to get stuff custom cut, the price really jumps. I paid like $150 for the plates for my current board ALONE. Admittedly, it is a 120%, but with zero economy of scale, the prices are brutal.
- KhalifaAdam
- Location: Magyarország
- Main keyboard: Asus K7
- Main mouse: Logitech G502
- Favorite switch: Gateron Silver
Hak Foo wrote: ↑11 Sep 2021, 20:12This is my perspective:
* I never got the whole switch cracking/lubing/modification thing. Especially today, when there are a bazillion variants (especially of linear and tactile MX-mount switches), won't you get more predictable results, with less risk of breaking switches and losing parts, by just buying a switch that's how you want it STOCK?
* Assuming the "GK61" is the ~$60 hot-swap kit board, what do you need the clippers for? It doesn't look like it has through hole diodes to have to cut.
* If we saw an itemized list, I'm suspecting there are places that you could economize more. What switches and keycaps are you using?
Your total is actually not that outlandish. If you start to get stuff custom cut, the price really jumps. I paid like $150 for the plates for my current board ALONE. Admittedly, it is a 120%, but with zero economy of scale, the prices are brutal.
Jesus Christ!Your total is actually not that outlandish. If you start to get stuff custom cut, the price really jumps. I paid like $150 for the plates for my current board ALONE. Admittedly, it is a 120%, but with zero economy of scale, the prices are brutal.
I'd like to modify the Redragon Kumara RGB later so i need wire clippers to mod the USB C thing ya know.Assuming the "GK61" is the ~$60 hot-swap kit board, what do you need the clippers for? It doesn't look like it has through hole diodes to have to cut.
(and clip stabilizers)
(Sorry in advance if i did not understand something I am Hungarian)I never got the whole switch cracking/lubing/modification thing. Especially today, when there are a bazillion variants (especially of linear and tactile MX-mount switches), won't you get more predictable results, with less risk of breaking switches and losing parts, by just buying a switch that's how you want it STOCK?
I went for Gateron Optical Silvers which are not smooth switches stock so i want to lube them open up apply 205g0 and close, done!
https://www.banggood.com/104-Keys-Milk- ... mds=searchIf we saw an itemized list, I'm suspecting there are places that you could economize more. What switches and keycaps are you using?
Milky translucent pudding keycaps.
https://www.banggood.com/70Pcs-or-pack- ... &ID=556698
Sliver switch if it is the wrong link (can't tell)
I might post an itemized list but in this post it doesn't fit
- Go-Kart
- Location: England
- Main keyboard: HHKB & AnyKey
- Main mouse: Orochi v2
- Favorite switch: Topre 45 g & MaxiSwitch D/S
I got into the hobby during the first part of the pandemic and I was poor. I started by buying a half decent board and then modifying it, spending as little money as I could. This turned out to be a decent strategy because it helped me find out what I like before I spent any "real money" on boards.
I got a used Pok3r for £30, some cheap lube £5 and then nabbed a broken Razer Black Widow Lite for £5. With the Pok3r and then the spare parts from the Razer, I built and and tuned a board. In doing this I realised I preferred lighter switches, that I didn't mind too much if they were tactile or linear, provided the weighting was right, and that I preferred something bigger than 60 % for a daily driver (although I've ended up with a HHKB but that's a different story altogether!).
So I'd say, if money is tight, slow down, buy second hand, buy cheap, experiment, and then invest when you're more confident in what you're after.
I got a used Pok3r for £30, some cheap lube £5 and then nabbed a broken Razer Black Widow Lite for £5. With the Pok3r and then the spare parts from the Razer, I built and and tuned a board. In doing this I realised I preferred lighter switches, that I didn't mind too much if they were tactile or linear, provided the weighting was right, and that I preferred something bigger than 60 % for a daily driver (although I've ended up with a HHKB but that's a different story altogether!).
So I'd say, if money is tight, slow down, buy second hand, buy cheap, experiment, and then invest when you're more confident in what you're after.
- fohat
- Elder Messenger
- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee, USA
- Main keyboard: Model F 122-key terminal
- Main mouse: Microsoft Optical Mouse
- Favorite switch: Model F Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0158
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- Location: Texas
- Main keyboard: Unicomp Spacesaver M
- Main mouse: CST trackball
- DT Pro Member: -
This. Been building for years, never have modded or lubed a switch yet. I just drop in my switches (most often some variant of BOX switch), and I'm happy.