I've seen a few references online to "foam replacements" for beamspring keyboards, and I have the usual questions: What exactly is the foam for? What does it do? What will be the effect on typing? Where do I get replacement foam? Should I do it?
Should it matter, I've a DisplayWriter 6580 keyboard.
Beamspring ... foam?
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Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
Thank you! So the foam is mainly for reducing the wobble. The wobble doesn't bother me, so I'll skip it for now.
(Looking at beamspring disassembly photos has made me realize just how clean mine is. The previous owner had already removed the foam and debris shield. All I had to do was clean the pads a bit and reassemble one switch when I installed my Xwhatsit converter and solenoid driver.)
(Looking at beamspring disassembly photos has made me realize just how clean mine is. The previous owner had already removed the foam and debris shield. All I had to do was clean the pads a bit and reassemble one switch when I installed my Xwhatsit converter and solenoid driver.)
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Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
Welcome to team lazy. That’s my position too. I’ll only replace that foam when I absolutely have to.
My (Model F) Kishsaver, fortunately, has stability aplenty. That’s a board I would dare to fix (much easier mechanism to work with, and smaller size) and I can picture putting some nicely cut foam in it someday. But, again, it works great right now so…
My (Model F) Kishsaver, fortunately, has stability aplenty. That’s a board I would dare to fix (much easier mechanism to work with, and smaller size) and I can picture putting some nicely cut foam in it someday. But, again, it works great right now so…
Removing beamspring keycaps is always nervewracking. I've done full teardowns more than once, but It's not something I do lightly! I'll be happy to hold off in this case. If and when I ever do it, I'll probably also replace the debris shield as well (and pray I never have to open it again).
I was looking through some old photos I took, and it looks like I might actually still have the original foam. Can anyone confirm that's what I'm looking at?
(Obviously what's pictured looks like foam, but I'm unsure from these photos if this means all the foam is intact. It also seems to be in good shape. I'm not sure if it's original or was replaced at some point, but I'm the one who USB-modded it.)
(Obviously what's pictured looks like foam, but I'm unsure from these photos if this means all the foam is intact. It also seems to be in good shape. I'm not sure if it's original or was replaced at some point, but I'm the one who USB-modded it.)
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Dionea
- Location: Netherlands
- Main keyboard: IBM Model F
- Main mouse: Logitech MX Master III
- Favorite switch: MX Blue
I recently finished my project to fully restore a 6580. The foam helps to stabilize the keys and definitely gives a better typefeeling. I needed to remove a fully rotten/sticky foam (so no choice in my case). Eventually the old foam WILL deteriorate, so when opening and cleaning the keyboard, I would recommend to consider replacing. When the foam crumbles, the pieces can give errors on the PCB.
Bought a foam replacement on eBay (search for "Replacement Foam for IBM Model F, Beamspring Keyboard XT AT F122 5251 3278 DW")" (Make sure you order the right version), worked well and worth the money if you don't want to cut yourself.
I used 2mm thick EPDM Celrubber tape with thin doublesided tape for the 2 mounting bracket sides. Same thickness as the key-foam to reduce any bending effects on the metal parts as much as possible when putting together.
Bought a foam replacement on eBay (search for "Replacement Foam for IBM Model F, Beamspring Keyboard XT AT F122 5251 3278 DW")" (Make sure you order the right version), worked well and worth the money if you don't want to cut yourself.
I used 2mm thick EPDM Celrubber tape with thin doublesided tape for the 2 mounting bracket sides. Same thickness as the key-foam to reduce any bending effects on the metal parts as much as possible when putting together.
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Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
Devil’s advocate: foam disintegrates with time, whether it’s in the keyboard or waiting to be installed. These Beamsprings are several decades old, of course, so that’s maybe not so compelling an objection. It boils down to whether you really think it’ll get harder to find the stuff in the future when you do use it. Will these boards still be prized and maintained some years from now?
So far, their price has skyrocketed in only one direction since I entered the hobby right when Xwhatsit first made them useable again. My bet is take it easy. But if I lose, sure, I’d have some fiddly trial and (much) error foam cutting ahead of me.
So far, their price has skyrocketed in only one direction since I entered the hobby right when Xwhatsit first made them useable again. My bet is take it easy. But if I lose, sure, I’d have some fiddly trial and (much) error foam cutting ahead of me.
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Dionea
- Location: Netherlands
- Main keyboard: IBM Model F
- Main mouse: Logitech MX Master III
- Favorite switch: MX Blue
EPDM Sponge Rubber has a longevity of at least 50 years. It's not the stuff they used in the 70's and 80's.
Don't expect that the foam inlays will get too crazy expensive; while manually it's quite some work, it's not THAT difficult to make it yourself. The seller probably had them factory laser cut based on a template.
It's easier to get the foam out once it hasn't fully turned in a tary mess yet. Even with isopropanol you're then going to scrub for a while!
Don't expect that the foam inlays will get too crazy expensive; while manually it's quite some work, it's not THAT difficult to make it yourself. The seller probably had them factory laser cut based on a template.
It's easier to get the foam out once it hasn't fully turned in a tary mess yet. Even with isopropanol you're then going to scrub for a while!