True enough.
Some bolt modding questions
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- Location: Ireland
- Main keyboard: GMMK TKL-Box White
- Main mouse: Model O
I plan to also bolt mod my model m but not an ssk, i have come across the video you linked it seems to be the only video for bolt modding a model m, but in fact i found a video of someone bolt modding a ibm wheel writer that has more or less the same design as the model m and it helped me to figure out how i will go about bolt modding my m.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2kUG1vt_O2g&t=117s
This is what i have come up with so far.
1.Dissasemble the model m
2.Remove rivets with a stanley blade (carpet knife blade) marking the posts with a silver sharpie as i go, so i know where to trim down.
3.Remove the Back plate, Trim down the posts to those little triangles, marking them once again with the silver sharpie but this time so i know where to drill.
4. Before i begin drilling i use a small file to file down any posts that were not cut properly. The file has a pointy tip which i will use to make pilot holes for the drill.
5.Begin to drill the holes and pray i dont crack the barrel plate
6.Reassemble the barrel plate and back plate use the hardware suggested on geekhack.org's guide
Considering i have never bolt modded an model m before this is the best i have come up with. I myself dont see any flaws in my plan but would be greatful if someone could point them out to me if there is any. Good luck with bolt modding your ssk. I hope to buy one myself.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2kUG1vt_O2g&t=117s
This is what i have come up with so far.
1.Dissasemble the model m
2.Remove rivets with a stanley blade (carpet knife blade) marking the posts with a silver sharpie as i go, so i know where to trim down.
3.Remove the Back plate, Trim down the posts to those little triangles, marking them once again with the silver sharpie but this time so i know where to drill.
4. Before i begin drilling i use a small file to file down any posts that were not cut properly. The file has a pointy tip which i will use to make pilot holes for the drill.
5.Begin to drill the holes and pray i dont crack the barrel plate
6.Reassemble the barrel plate and back plate use the hardware suggested on geekhack.org's guide
Considering i have never bolt modded an model m before this is the best i have come up with. I myself dont see any flaws in my plan but would be greatful if someone could point them out to me if there is any. Good luck with bolt modding your ssk. I hope to buy one myself.
- JP!
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: Currently a Model M
- Main mouse: Steel Series Sensei
- Favorite switch: Beam Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0194
- Contact:
clickykeyboards wrote: ↑07 Sep 2019, 13:25Some videos and photos that we have made in the past few years about IBM model M cleaning, disassembly and putting it all back together.
Inside look: Restoring and rebuilding a 32-year-old IBM model M
https://www.facebook.com/ClickyKeyboard ... 02500130/
Proudly restored by hand.
https://www.facebook.com/ClickyKeyboard ... 608841203/
3 hours well spent. Repairing an 84-key 1987 model M SSK in 2018
https://www.facebook.com/pg/ClickyKeybo ... 8426026203
- JP!
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: Currently a Model M
- Main mouse: Steel Series Sensei
- Favorite switch: Beam Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0194
- Contact:
-
- Location: Ireland
- Main keyboard: GMMK TKL-Box White
- Main mouse: Model O
Those videos are old and not as in depth as the one i have recommendedJP! wrote: ↑07 Sep 2019, 22:32clickykeyboards wrote: ↑07 Sep 2019, 13:25Some videos and photos that we have made in the past few years about IBM model M cleaning, disassembly and putting it all back together.
Inside look: Restoring and rebuilding a 32-year-old IBM model M
https://www.facebook.com/ClickyKeyboard ... 02500130/
Proudly restored by hand.
https://www.facebook.com/ClickyKeyboard ... 608841203/
3 hours well spent. Repairing an 84-key 1987 model M SSK in 2018
https://www.facebook.com/pg/ClickyKeybo ... 8426026203
- JP!
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: Currently a Model M
- Main mouse: Steel Series Sensei
- Favorite switch: Beam Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0194
- Contact:
Supplies used by 1AvidCollector:
- JP!
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: Currently a Model M
- Main mouse: Steel Series Sensei
- Favorite switch: Beam Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0194
- Contact:
Ah I see.Donnelly20 wrote: ↑07 Sep 2019, 22:35Those videos are old and not as in depth as the one i have recommended
Not sure if if this is useful but here is a gallery by pr0ximity using the nut bolt method and also replacing the blanket with a thinner one from Unicomp. Lots of little nuggets of information spread all over the web it seems. I think using nuts/bolts for the center row or in strategic locations and torx screws for the rest is what I might end up trying with one of mine.
https://imgur.com/a/AVFvZ
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- Location: Ireland
- Main keyboard: GMMK TKL-Box White
- Main mouse: Model O
That is what i have found aswell, when i bolt mod my model m i am also converting it to ISO. I have just compiled what i think is best information from many different guides. The video i recommended is very good in my opinion. I have never seen anyone else recommend it and i just happened to come by it by chance i was not even searching for anything related to bolt modding at the time but the design of the wheel writer 3 is near identical to the model m just with less rivets and the person in the video explains the process very well.Lots of little nuggets of information spread all over the web it seems.
- JP!
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: Currently a Model M
- Main mouse: Steel Series Sensei
- Favorite switch: Beam Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0194
- Contact:
I didn't actually watch that video yet as the sound on my main desktop is no longer working.Donnelly20 wrote: ↑07 Sep 2019, 22:53That is what i have found aswell, when i bolt mod my model m i am also converting it to ISO. I have just compiled what i think is best information from many different guides. The video i recommended is very good in my opinion. I have never seen anyone else recommend it and i just happened to come by it by chance i was not even searching for anything related to bolt modding at the time but the design of the wheel writer 3 is near identical to the model m just with less rivets and the person in the video explains the process very well.Lots of little nuggets of information spread all over the web it seems.
Also generally the process from various guides is similar with differing opinions on what hardware to use and the method for starting pilot holes prior to drilling.
-
- Location: Ireland
- Main keyboard: GMMK TKL-Box White
- Main mouse: Model O
No worries, i would highly recommend it though for anyone bolt modding their ibm its a very good instructional video. Helped me figure out my plan i mostly stole his method but its cause everything he uses is available to me i just use different hardware as i can get the ones in the geekhack guide in a local shop.JP! wrote: ↑07 Sep 2019, 23:00I didn't actually watch that video yet as the sound on my main desktop is no longer working.Donnelly20 wrote: ↑07 Sep 2019, 22:53That is what i have found aswell, when i bolt mod my model m i am also converting it to ISO. I have just compiled what i think is best information from many different guides. The video i recommended is very good in my opinion. I have never seen anyone else recommend it and i just happened to come by it by chance i was not even searching for anything related to bolt modding at the time but the design of the wheel writer 3 is near identical to the model m just with less rivets and the person in the video explains the process very well.Lots of little nuggets of information spread all over the web it seems.
Also generally the process from various guides is similar with differing opinions on what hardware to use and the method for starting pilot holes prior to drilling.
- JP!
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: Currently a Model M
- Main mouse: Steel Series Sensei
- Favorite switch: Beam Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0194
- Contact:
One other thing I just though of. If you are doing many of these bolt mods I think ideally you would want some kind of jig to keep the barrel plate perfectly flat and well supported. Then you would need some sort of drill press to ensure no holes are drilled at an angle. I'm not sure about starting pilot holes though.
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- Location: Ireland
- Main keyboard: GMMK TKL-Box White
- Main mouse: Model O
I am only going to be bolt modding one board, i thought of making a jig but i do not have access to a drill press so i will just have to use a hand drill. In the video i recommended the guy uses a pointy file to make pilot holes and it looked like it worked so i am going to give it a shot.JP! wrote: ↑07 Sep 2019, 23:08One other thing I just though of. If you are doing many of these bolt mods I think ideally you would want some kind of jig to keep the barrel plate perfectly flat and well supported. Then you would need some sort of drill press to ensure no holes are drilled at an angle. I'm not sure about starting pilot holes though.
- fohat
- Elder Messenger
- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee, USA
- Main keyboard: Model F 122-key terminal
- Main mouse: Microsoft Optical Mouse
- Favorite switch: Model F Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0158
Having done at least a dozen of these, I will reiterate my earlier recommendations based on my experience.Donnelly20 wrote: ↑07 Sep 2019, 23:44
I am only going to be bolt modding one board, i thought of making a jig but i do not have access to a drill press so i will just have to use a hand drill. In the video i recommended the guy uses a pointy file to make pilot holes and it looked like it worked so i am going to give it a shot.
If you have a Dremel or rotary tool, it is far easier to use that, 2-handed, with your face in close (safety glasses, please) on the slowest setting. Leave the shafts as long as possible for better alignment. And seriously, the tiny spherical burr tip is by far the most manageable way to make starter divots.
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- Location: Ireland
- Main keyboard: GMMK TKL-Box White
- Main mouse: Model O
I have neither a dremel or rotary tool i was looking at investing in one but decided againsted it as most the reviews for dremels on amazon or local shops said they would break with in the first month. Instead i have a small little hand drill like the one picturedfohat wrote: ↑08 Sep 2019, 15:59Having done at least a dozen of these, I will reiterate my earlier recommendations based on my experience.Donnelly20 wrote: ↑07 Sep 2019, 23:44
I am only going to be bolt modding one board, i thought of making a jig but i do not have access to a drill press so i will just have to use a hand drill. In the video i recommended the guy uses a pointy file to make pilot holes and it looked like it worked so i am going to give it a shot.
If you have a Dremel or rotary tool, it is far easier to use that, 2-handed, with your face in close (safety glasses, please) on the slowest setting. Leave the shafts as long as possible for better alignment. And seriously, the tiny spherical burr tip is by far the most manageable way to make starter divots.
i plan to use this. I may or may not make a little jig to hold the barrel plate
- Wazrach
- Location: Tyne and Wear, United Kingdom
- Main mouse: Razer Viper 8KHz/ Viper Mini
- Favorite switch: Buckling springs
- DT Pro Member: -
Yeah, as long as the barrel plate isn't flexing when you drill, you should be alright. At least with the Model F bolt mod, cracking wasn't a concern.Donnelly20 wrote: ↑08 Sep 2019, 16:09i plan to use this. I may or may not make a little jig to hold the barrel plate
- fohat
- Elder Messenger
- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee, USA
- Main keyboard: Model F 122-key terminal
- Main mouse: Microsoft Optical Mouse
- Favorite switch: Model F Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0158
How long are your screws? M2x8mm screws have plenty of clearance at the back, but the internal assembly is very close to the bottom case shell at the front (space bar row). If some part of the screw or nut is projecting too far, it will interfere with the case.
It is a kludge but if the contact is minimal you can use a burr head and make little divots in the plastic for the offending projections to sink into.
Use crayon or wax marker on the screws, close the case as tight as you can, and see if marks are transferred onto the plastic.
It is a kludge but if the contact is minimal you can use a burr head and make little divots in the plastic for the offending projections to sink into.
Use crayon or wax marker on the screws, close the case as tight as you can, and see if marks are transferred onto the plastic.
- Wazrach
- Location: Tyne and Wear, United Kingdom
- Main mouse: Razer Viper 8KHz/ Viper Mini
- Favorite switch: Buckling springs
- DT Pro Member: -
- JP!
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: Currently a Model M
- Main mouse: Steel Series Sensei
- Favorite switch: Beam Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0194
- Contact:
-
- Location: United States
- DT Pro Member: -
- Wazrach
- Location: Tyne and Wear, United Kingdom
- Main mouse: Razer Viper 8KHz/ Viper Mini
- Favorite switch: Buckling springs
- DT Pro Member: -
d e l i c i o u s
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- Location: Ireland
- Main keyboard: GMMK TKL-Box White
- Main mouse: Model O
So it turns out my dad had a dremel and he is letting me use it for the bolt mod, although when i dug it out it had none of the pieces he said he may have put them away some where else, so i have ordered the multi purpose chuck, 100 piece muti purpose tool accessory kit. Which attachment should i use to grind down the posts on the switch plate. i have only done a few with the hand file i have but the file is not completely flat so its making the posts domed. i was thinking the smallest sand paper piece would do.Also which attachment should i use to make little guide holes for the drill bit.fohat wrote: ↑08 Sep 2019, 15:59Having done at least a dozen of these, I will reiterate my earlier recommendations based on my experience.Donnelly20 wrote: ↑07 Sep 2019, 23:44
I am only going to be bolt modding one board, i thought of making a jig but i do not have access to a drill press so i will just have to use a hand drill. In the video i recommended the guy uses a pointy file to make pilot holes and it looked like it worked so i am going to give it a shot.
If you have a Dremel or rotary tool, it is far easier to use that, 2-handed, with your face in close (safety glasses, please) on the slowest setting. Leave the shafts as long as possible for better alignment. And seriously, the tiny spherical burr tip is by far the most manageable way to make starter divots.
PS. i also bought the flexi shaft tool in hopes of making life easier
- fohat
- Elder Messenger
- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee, USA
- Main keyboard: Model F 122-key terminal
- Main mouse: Microsoft Optical Mouse
- Favorite switch: Model F Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0158
That is some nice gear! My Dremel is a standard basic cheapie from the 1980s.
That burr tip still looks large - I have one that is much smaller than the diameter of the primary shaft.
I do all the cutting with a chisel tip blade on an Xacto knife. I do the rough cuts with one blade, pull all the plates apart, and shave the flat tops of the "mesas" with at fresh new chisel tip. Try to do it in a single stroke.
As always, get in very close with your reading glasses and do it 2-handed.
That burr tip still looks large - I have one that is much smaller than the diameter of the primary shaft.
I do all the cutting with a chisel tip blade on an Xacto knife. I do the rough cuts with one blade, pull all the plates apart, and shave the flat tops of the "mesas" with at fresh new chisel tip. Try to do it in a single stroke.
As always, get in very close with your reading glasses and do it 2-handed.