Hi all. I have XT model F, most of the keys are very tactile, as they should be, but some keys barely feel tactile at all. They still make a clicking noise, but they almost fee linear when actuated, with a very small and almost unnoticeable bump at the very end. I have tried pulling the springs up a little bit and letting them fall back down, but it did not help. Does anyone know how to fix this?
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IBM XT Model F question
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
Try taking the spring out for examination. There's a non-invasive technique known as the "chopstick" method I can vouch for, and a quick search on the forum shows several threads where it and similar techniques comes up, including the new Model F manual:
search.php?keywords=chopstick
You can in fact open up the whole insides of your XT without too much bother, and take out the entire flipper for replacement if necessary. It's not nearly as much work on a Model F than a Model M.
search.php?keywords=chopstick
You can in fact open up the whole insides of your XT without too much bother, and take out the entire flipper for replacement if necessary. It's not nearly as much work on a Model F than a Model M.
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- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Drop Alt High Profile
- Main mouse: Logitech M570
- Favorite switch: Glorious Panda
I don’t know that there’s a real science to this, but sometimes you just need to keep removing and re-placing the key stem in the barrel until that particular switch works right. I had to do this at least ten times on one of my switches yesterday.
Try tilting the board so the front edge is facing up at your face - this helps align the spring.
Try tilting the board so the front edge is facing up at your face - this helps align the spring.
- Wazrach
- Location: Tyne and Wear, United Kingdom
- Main mouse: Razer Viper 8KHz/ Viper Mini
- Favorite switch: Buckling springs
- DT Pro Member: -
In some cases, the springs may be damaged or not seated on the nub of the flipper correctly. This can definitely cause the issues you're describing. That's if countless reseating of the keycaps doesn't work.
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
Nicely done. The true timeline must be enforced.
How did you catch this particular transgression? I’ve gone back and caught a few, some even from a single account who edited every one of his posts some months later to squeeze spam links into the quotes of people replying to him. But a straightforward search term evades me. Technically, all spam contains links and so should all be in these results. But so many false positives!
How did you catch this particular transgression? I’ve gone back and caught a few, some even from a single account who edited every one of his posts some months later to squeeze spam links into the quotes of people replying to him. But a straightforward search term evades me. Technically, all spam contains links and so should all be in these results. But so many false positives!
- kbdfr
- The Tiproman
- Location: Berlin, Germany
- Main keyboard: Tipro MID-QM-128A + two Tipro matrix modules
- Main mouse: Contour Rollermouse Pro
- Favorite switch: Cherry black
- DT Pro Member: 0010
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- Location: United Kingdom
- Main keyboard: Apple M3501 (Linearized + undampened cream alps)
- Main mouse: Logitech g203
- Favorite switch: capacitive buckling springs
Has anyone with an F experienced chattering or unreliable connection over USB? I use a soarer's converter I personally wired, so it could be that I did a shoddy job, or it is the power requirements. Last time I had it happen, it ended up being the wiring, and I ended up redoing the whole thing better and with a heatshrink wrap to avoid any accidental shorts.
Still, in the occasional rotation it could either work perfectly or not work at all, and then start chattering by itself.
Could it be the keyboard? If so is it easy getting it apart and reassembling it?
Also, I have tried different configurations with and without pull up resistors, but only without ended working for me. Do you know if the commercially available soarer's has pull up resistors or not?
Still, in the occasional rotation it could either work perfectly or not work at all, and then start chattering by itself.
Could it be the keyboard? If so is it easy getting it apart and reassembling it?
Also, I have tried different configurations with and without pull up resistors, but only without ended working for me. Do you know if the commercially available soarer's has pull up resistors or not?