scored some model ms
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- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: iris w/ skcm orange
- Main mouse: Zowie FK-2
- Favorite switch: alps
- DT Pro Member: -
my friend found these at her job in storage. She got them all for free
they are all pretty late model ms, from 97,99,02 respectively. Because of that they don't feel too good so im thinking about swapping an older keyboard module into one of the industrial cases. Is this easy to do?
The two industrial m's are fully functional but the m122 is ghosting and just freaking out in general so im not sure whats wrong with it. maybe after cleaning it up it will work better because its super dirty.
they are all pretty late model ms, from 97,99,02 respectively. Because of that they don't feel too good so im thinking about swapping an older keyboard module into one of the industrial cases. Is this easy to do?
The two industrial m's are fully functional but the m122 is ghosting and just freaking out in general so im not sure whats wrong with it. maybe after cleaning it up it will work better because its super dirty.
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- ArtyomTheMetroHopper
- Location: England
- Main keyboard: Soon to be IBM 5382
- Main mouse: Corsair M65
- Favorite switch: Beamspring
Damn your lucky! You thinking of keeping the boards or perhaps selling one off?
- ArtyomTheMetroHopper
- Location: England
- Main keyboard: Soon to be IBM 5382
- Main mouse: Corsair M65
- Favorite switch: Beamspring
As for swapping it is easy, but you got to keep in mind that you will need a specific socket to undo the bottom screws holding the case together
- ArtyomTheMetroHopper
- Location: England
- Main keyboard: Soon to be IBM 5382
- Main mouse: Corsair M65
- Favorite switch: Beamspring
You should be able to grab a 7/32" deep socket on amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=7%2F32%22+de ... _sb_noss_2
You may also want to look into bolt/screwing modding too if your having issues with your keys
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=7%2F32%22+de ... _sb_noss_2
You may also want to look into bolt/screwing modding too if your having issues with your keys
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- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: iris w/ skcm orange
- Main mouse: Zowie FK-2
- Favorite switch: alps
- DT Pro Member: -
i will not be selling themArtyomTheMetroHopper wrote: ↑07 Dec 2022, 15:21Damn your lucky! You thinking of keeping the boards or perhaps selling one off?
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- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: iris w/ skcm orange
- Main mouse: Zowie FK-2
- Favorite switch: alps
- DT Pro Member: -
i have the tools to open them already. The two industrial ms only have like 1/2 broken rivets. The m122 has like 8. Im not sure if that's enough to cause these issues or not.ArtyomTheMetroHopper wrote: ↑07 Dec 2022, 15:26You should be able to grab a 7/32" deep socket on amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=7%2F32%22+de ... _sb_noss_2
You may also want to look into bolt/screwing modding too if your having issues with your keys
- ArtyomTheMetroHopper
- Location: England
- Main keyboard: Soon to be IBM 5382
- Main mouse: Corsair M65
- Favorite switch: Beamspring
I have a model M blue badge with 3 rivets gone that has not affected too badly, but if your m122 is having issues with key registering and has 8 rivets missing already that is the most likely culprit
- fohat
- Elder Messenger
- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee, USA
- Main keyboard: Model F 122-key terminal
- Main mouse: Microsoft Optical Mouse
- Favorite switch: Model F Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0158
I second the suggestion that a thorough cleaning and a bolt mod will likely solve your "feel" problems.
edit - 1 or 2 broken rivets could cause that area to feel "soft" but there are other use or wear-related faults that could be in play.
edit - 1 or 2 broken rivets could cause that area to feel "soft" but there are other use or wear-related faults that could be in play.
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- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: iris w/ skcm orange
- Main mouse: Zowie FK-2
- Favorite switch: alps
- DT Pro Member: -
Do late model m's with a plastic barrel plate not feel worse than early m's? All the keys feel consistent its just consistently average. Compared to one from 1988 at my school all the keys are less smooth and the tactility doesn't feel as crisp.fohat wrote: I second the suggestion that a thorough cleaning and a bolt mod will likely solve your "feel" problems.
- jsheradin
- Location: USA
The 122 definitely sounds like it has a loose ribbon or something shorting on the membrane. Try unseating and reseating the ribbons a few times to break up any corrosion. A quick clean of the ribbon and connector with isopropyl would also be a good idea. Give the controller a good visual check and maybe clean it off with compressed air. There's a good chance a bit of conductive debris found its way in and is now shorting something. If the issues are still present then you'd need to pull apart the barrel assembly and check out the membrane itself. Unicomp sells new ones for <$20 so it's usually best to just replace them rather than mess with conductive paint or anything.
- ArtyomTheMetroHopper
- Location: England
- Main keyboard: Soon to be IBM 5382
- Main mouse: Corsair M65
- Favorite switch: Beamspring
I have never used a plastic barrel plate M, but apparently there is a subtle difference due to the way the plate can flex (think gasket board designs). But usually its the sound that people point out more than the tactility. Again I can't really say from experience but that's what I have heard from people comparing early and late designs.Rezene wrote: ↑07 Dec 2022, 15:38Do late model m's with a plastic barrel plate not feel worse than early m's? All the keys feel consistent its just consistently average. Compared to one from 1988 at my school all the keys are less smooth and the tactility doesn't feel as crisp.fohat wrote: I second the suggestion that a thorough cleaning and a bolt mod will likely solve your "feel" problems.
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- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: iris w/ skcm orange
- Main mouse: Zowie FK-2
- Favorite switch: alps
- DT Pro Member: -
I may also just be slightly spoiled coming from daily driving a model f xtArtyomTheMetroHopper wrote: ↑07 Dec 2022, 15:43I have never used a plastic barrel plate M, but apparently there is a subtle difference due to the way the plate can flex (think gasket board designs). But usually its the sound that people point out more than the tactility. Again I can't really say from experience but that's what I have heard from people comparing early and late designs.Rezene wrote: ↑07 Dec 2022, 15:38Do late model m's with a plastic barrel plate not feel worse than early m's? All the keys feel consistent its just consistently average. Compared to one from 1988 at my school all the keys are less smooth and the tactility doesn't feel as crisp.fohat wrote: I second the suggestion that a thorough cleaning and a bolt mod will likely solve your "feel" problems.
- clickykeyboards
- Main keyboard: 1395682
- Favorite switch: buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: 0233
- Contact:
Differences are more likely due to thickness and materials of metal plates (rather than plastic barrel plate)ArtyomTheMetroHopper wrote: ↑07 Dec 2022, 15:43I have never used a plastic barrel plate M, but apparently there is a subtle difference due to the way the plate can flex (think gasket board designs). But usually its the sound that people point out more than the tactility. Again I can't really say from experience but that's what I have heard from people comparing early and late designs.Rezene wrote: ↑07 Dec 2022, 15:38Do late model m's with a plastic barrel plate not feel worse than early m's? All the keys feel consistent its just consistently average. Compared to one from 1988 at my school all the keys are less smooth and the tactility doesn't feel as crisp.fohat wrote: I second the suggestion that a thorough cleaning and a bolt mod will likely solve your "feel" problems.
http://clickeykeyboards.squarespace.com ... 1986-2003/
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