Model M Reconditioning Time Lapse! Weeee!

phosphorglow · 01 Feb 2014, 21:21

Hiya!

Here's about 90% of the entire process, mostly in time lapse fashion! I've condensed hours of work into 13 minutes for your viewing pleasure! Unfortunately I forgot to put in a clip of how I preserve the case stamps during washing (waterproof medical bandage = win).

There's some noteworthy tricks of mine in here including label removal, marking and drilling holes in the barrel panel, and a simple method of removing the springs/hammers that doesn't involve painstakingly reinstalling them individually. I hope this helps other Model M owners who wish to try their hand at a bolt mod or just want to see how it all goes together!

clickykeyboards · 01 Feb 2014, 22:16

Bravo!

Your work shows excellent methods, tools, techniques and most importantly --- the patience of a true craftsman.

scottc · 02 Feb 2014, 00:31

This is really nice. I really like your method of marking the spots to drill - I'll have to steal that trick! Thanks for sharing.

Findecanor · 02 Feb 2014, 00:37

I usually wash keyboard cases in the shower and stand them up to dry overnight. What is that thing you use on the towel?

I always use a washing bag when washing keycaps. Then hang the bag to dry over the air purifier that blows air through it, so no need to dry each keycap by hand.

nourathar · 02 Feb 2014, 01:29

thanks for sharing this great resource !

Elrick · 02 Feb 2014, 09:53

Now we all know how truly complicated a Model-M resto is. Your video really puts in perspective how time consuming it really is (despite speeding it all up).

I don't mind paying someone to do this type work because only a handful of people are up to the task of handling this type of exertion.

Thank you for the video, which everyone out there in IBM land should see and appreciate the effort it takes to accomplish a successful restoration of these ancient relics.

matt3o · 02 Feb 2014, 10:57

may I ask what is the size of the threading tool you used? and screw size.

thanks! and really great work. one of the best I've seen for Model M restoration

damorgue · 02 Feb 2014, 11:20

Elrick wrote: I don't mind paying someone to do this type work because only a handful of people are up to the task of handling this type of exertion.

I think it is quite easy to find people who can boltmod a board for you, but I consider that to be on a different level than a complete reconditioning like the ones shown in the video. Taking a board apart, marking holes, drill and put it back together won't take nearly as much time.

Nice to see such a thorough job. I will boltmod and flossmod one of mine soon and this might come in handy. Did you use a blowdryer to remove the label? What do you use to attach it again?

Daniel · 02 Feb 2014, 11:51

Really a great video. Using the tape is good hint. Also I'm too lazy to dry every keycap by hand and just let them dry on the air over a week or so.

matt3o · 02 Feb 2014, 12:30

I use air compressor to dry the keys

damorgue · 02 Feb 2014, 12:42

I decided I am going to teach myself using one of my crappier Model M's. I have a question on what tools you use for opening the case. I didn't take my full toolbox when I moved so it turns out the only socket wrenches I have here are too wide to fit into the rather deep holes where the screw heads are.

Edit: Google tells me this one

Muirium · 02 Feb 2014, 12:45

Yup, 5.5 nut spinner. I grabbed a set of them (5 sizes topping out at 5.5 mm) which has proven to be highly useful.

Daniel · 02 Feb 2014, 13:03

@damorgue
The screws on the Ms are 7/32"

damorgue · 02 Feb 2014, 13:16

Converts to 5.56 in ISO land so I guess that 5.5 as Murium mentioned will be easier for me to find. I actually found a nut spinner which appears to be the correct size but its outer diameter is too wide. I will need to buy one.

phosphorglow · 03 Feb 2014, 00:15

Thanks everyone! I'm glad it's helpful!

by Findecanor » Yesterday, 19:37
I usually wash keyboard cases in the shower and stand them up to dry overnight. What is that thing you use on the towel?

I always use a washing bag when washing keycaps. Then hang the bag to dry over the air purifier that blows air through it, so no need to dry each keycap by hand.

Not sure what you're referring to about the towel?

Depending on the amount of grime that's on the keys I'll do a rinse after letting them soak in detergent and let them sit in front of a fan, but other times I'll just wipe the caps off by hand like this just to be thorough.

by matt3o » Today, 05:57
may I ask what is the size of the threading tool you used? and screw size.

Sure! I use M2-0.4 x 6mm and 4mm. I just use one of the screws to thread all the holes.

by damorgue » Today, 06:20

Nice to see such a thorough job. I will boltmod and flossmod one of mine soon and this might come in handy. Did you use a blowdryer to remove the label? What do you use to attach it again?

Yup, I use a heat gun and after laminating I use some 3M spray adhesive to re-attach 'em.

As for the case screw socket size, for the US folks, Harbor Freight sells a socket set that has a thin walled 5.5mm that works just fine.

I'm glad the tape trick was well received - wish I had thought of it a while ago! I glanced over at my roll of tape one day and it dawned on me.

Thanks again!
I'll post some before/after pics of the 1390120 in the video soon.

Daemon Raccoon · 04 Feb 2014, 05:35

I'd like some pictures of that cardboard jig you're using when removing the plastic rivets.

phosphorglow · 05 Feb 2014, 00:25

Daemon Raccoon wrote:I'd like some pictures of that cardboard jig you're using when removing the plastic rivets.

Here ya go! I was thinking about making one out of plastic at some point, but this one is so sturdy and the cardboard doesn't scuff anything that I don't think I'll bother.

I do need to make some rows for the number pad section eventually. It's not a big deal but it kind of bothers me since it's not "finished".

Daemon Raccoon · 05 Feb 2014, 00:30

Thanks, now to try making one for myself.

phosphorglow · 05 Feb 2014, 00:45

Daemon Raccoon wrote:Thanks, now to try making one for myself.

No prob! Just trace the curve of the plate and mark where the rows need to sit in between the barrels, and make sure they follow the same angle. I used some good double walled cardboard, but my first revision was made out of some single-walled and worked pretty decent. Let us know how it turns out!

damorgue · 08 Feb 2014, 11:06

What are people's thoughts on 'through hole+bolt+nut' vs 'screw straight into a hole in the barrel frame'?

I am currently looking to order some screws and can't decide. The 'bolt+nut and perhaps a washer as well' seems more reliable in the very long run simply because I tend to dislike threads in plastic.

matt3o · 08 Feb 2014, 11:10

I believe this should go in the workshop, not in images/video

damorgue · 09 Feb 2014, 13:56

I have decided to go with bolt and nut.

How much of a blasphemy would you considerit to be to switch out the original screws which hold the case together to allen head ones?

phosphorglow · 12 Feb 2014, 19:24

damorgue wrote:What are people's thoughts on 'through hole+bolt+nut' vs 'screw straight into a hole in the barrel frame'?

I am currently looking to order some screws and can't decide. The 'bolt+nut and perhaps a washer as well' seems more reliable in the very long run simply because I tend to dislike threads in plastic.

Personally, I've spend a great deal of time agonizing over this inside my head. And then one day I got froggy and used one of my spare barrel frames as a test subject. I did my usual, drill out hole, thread it, and then I drove a screw into it without stopping. Surprisingly the threads didn't start stripping until after the screw got past the little half-moon spacers. Not only is this waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay more force than I would ever use, but all the force that's holding the steel plate to the frame is spread out over 50+ screws with nice tight threads. Additionally, I drill just a hair lower than the center of the stud to make sure to use the strongest part. I've noticed that drilling exactly center or a little above will distort the plastic just enough to make me paranoid.

Anyhoo - I'm open to opinions on this, but I'm about 99.9% certain everything is perfectly peachy, so long as the holes are drilled properly.

damorgue · 12 Feb 2014, 23:37

I have no doubts that if you get it to work and not strip any threads, it will work beautifully. The real question is: Does it offer any advantages? Nut and bolt appears to be the safe option to me. Less risk of problems, less need for as accurate holes, no risk of thread issues etc. I will keep going for nut and bolt as I don't think the extra effort really provides anything extra for the added risk and precision required.

vivalarevolución · 12 Feb 2014, 23:39

Go Colts.

phosphorglow · 12 Feb 2014, 23:56

damorgue wrote:I have no doubts that if you get it to work and not strip any threads, it will work beautifully. The real question is: Does it offer any advantages? Nut and bolt appears to be the safe option to me. Less risk of problems, less need for as accurate holes, no risk of thread issues etc. I will keep going for nut and bolt as I don't think the extra effort really provides anything extra for the added risk and precision required.

Nah, no real advantages over nuts and bolts, aside from aesthetics and not having the nuts contact the case. I prefer it because I'm a bit of a perfectionist...

I'd be inclined to agree that nuts and bolts are better if you don't have access to a drill press or you haven't done a mod like this before. Either way the goal is to have a functional Model M and both ways are quite capable of achieving that result. I'm glad you brought this up, I've been wanting to chat about it.

prdlm2009 wrote:Go Colts.

Hehehe, indeed.

That hoodie has seen better days.

phosphorglow · 13 Feb 2014, 00:05

damorgue wrote:I have decided to go with bolt and nut.

How much of a blasphemy would you considerit to be to switch out the original screws which hold the case together to allen head ones?

Absolute blasphemy.

Nah, if it's easier for you, I say go for it. I just have a socket driver for my drill, so it's zip! zip! and done.

damorgue · 13 Feb 2014, 01:46

phosphorglow wrote:
damorgue wrote:I have no doubts that if you get it to work and not strip any threads, it will work beautifully. The real question is: Does it offer any advantages? Nut and bolt appears to be the safe option to me. Less risk of problems, less need for as accurate holes, no risk of thread issues etc. I will keep going for nut and bolt as I don't think the extra effort really provides anything extra for the added risk and precision required.
Nah, no real advantages over nuts and bolts, aside from aesthetics and not having the nuts contact the case. I prefer it because I'm a bit of a perfectionist... I'd be inclined to agree that nuts and bolts are better if you don't have access to a drill press or you haven't done a mod like this before. Either way the goal is to have a functional Model M and both ways are quite capable of achieving that result. I'm glad you brought this up, I've been wanting to chat about it.

You bring up a great point (other than the looks of the internals). If one was to apply too much torque, the heads contacting the barrel frame might crack the plastic and cause significant damage to the frame. In the scenario where you tap holes, you are more likely to strip the threads in which case you end up with a hole and just add a nut.

phosphorglow wrote:
damorgue wrote:I have decided to go with bolt and nut.

How much of a blasphemy would you considerit to be to switch out the original screws which hold the case together to allen head ones?
Absolute blasphemy.

Nah, if it's easier for you, I say go for it. I just have a socket driver for my drill, so it's zip! zip! and done.

I bought a socket driver which had thin enough walls now so I guess I won't need to.